Newbie question about winterizing, freezing temps, etc.

[Gianfri]

Hello, VERY MUCH a newbie here! We are contemplating purchasing a 2023 Geo Pro 19FD. We live in Topeka, KS, where starting in October and until April you can expect at least a few nights with below-freezing temperatures. We would probably want to take some trips March through November. I understand the concept of winterizing the TT before we put it away for the winter, but I am wondering how that applies to protecting it during the occasional sub-freezing temperature, either at home or at a campground. Sure we would not want to winterize the trailer every time temperatures are below freezing, right?



So are there easy or temporary measures I can take short of a full winterizing process in those transition months?


Thank you for any suggestion you may have - these forums are full of excellent information!

[Marine359]

Hi Gianfri,
Yes you will want to winterize during shoulder season even if you take trips. It’s easy enough to do the abbreviated version in shoulder when ambients may be below freezing intermittently but not frigid, like prolonged periods or below zero.

We take several trips during shoulder season, and use the abbreviated method until we put the trailer away until January, when we de-winterize and head to Florida for a couple of months. Then we re-winterize when we return home. This season, we’ll probably winterize and de-winterize three or more time. It takes less than a half hour, and it’s certainly not the risk of having something freeze and cause a major repair.

The abbreviated method means emptying tanks, blowing out all faucets and lines with 30 psi compressed air through the low point drains, and emptying and bypassing the HWH. Then use about a cup of pink in each p-trap.
Full winterization additionally includes sucking pink into the lines through the water pump winterizing pick-up hose until all faucets bleed pink. In your climate zone, I’d recommend you use the long method when you put your rv away for the winter.

[Nwcid]

You do not say what your temps get or for how long.

If you low temp for the day is below freezing, but during the day it is 40* or higher things should be fine. If you are talking about prolonged, a day or two, of freezing or sub freezing weather then you will need to drain your water at a minimum.

Easy way to figure it out, take a gallon jug of water and set it on your porch. If it freezes and stays frozen, so will your RV. If it does not, neither will your RV.

[Gianfri]

Originally Posted by Nwcid

You do not say what your temps get or for how long.

If you low temp for the day is below freezing, but during the day it is 40* or higher things should be fine. If you are talking about prolonged, a day or two, of freezing or sub freezing weather then you will need to drain your water at a minimum.

Easy way to figure it out, take a gallon jug of water and set it on your porch. If it freezes and stays frozen, so will your RV. If it does not, neither will your RV.

Good suggestions about the jug of water.


During shoulder seasons in general we may dip to mid 20's at night for a few nights, with daytime temperatures above freezing. But there are exceptions, like now, when we have been in low 20's at night for about 5 nights and one day it never went above freezing mark...

[Gianfri]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Hi Gianfri,
Yes you will want to winterize during shoulder season even if you take trips. It’s easy enough to do the abbreviated version in shoulder when ambients may be below freezing intermittently but not frigid, like prolonged periods or below zero.

We take several trips during shoulder season, and use the abbreviated method until we put the trailer away until January, when we de-winterize and head to Florida for a couple of months. Then we re-winterize when we return home. This season, we’ll probably winterize and de-winterize three or more time. It takes less than a half hour, and it’s certainly not the risk of having something freeze and cause a major repair.

The abbreviated method means emptying tanks, blowing out all faucets and lines with 30 psi compressed air through the low point drains, and emptying and bypassing the HWH. Then use about a cup of pink in each p-trap.
Full winterization additionally includes sucking pink into the lines through the water pump winterizing pick-up hose until all faucets bleed pink. In your climate zone, I’d recommend you use the long method when you put your rv away for the winter.

I was afraid you would say that....


If the TT can be hooked up to shore power at night, would that make a difference in the need to do the "abbreviated versions"?


Thanks!

[rosebud1218]

Looks like March temperatures in Topeka have an average low of 34°F. Of course, that average is influenced by a number of below freezing temperature-days. Given your GeoPro would be winterized prior to your first trip in March, a de-winterizing decision will be influenced by where you're headed and for how long. For peace of mind, consider winterizing if you have been and will continue to be stored/camped in an actual or potential freezing conditions for more than 24 hours. I have a small, 17' teardrop trailer and it takes me less than 30 minutes to winterize. Your winterizing time should be similar and will take the worry and expense out of the equation.

Happy Camping!

https://www.currentresults.com/Weath...ture-march.php

[Gianfri]

Originally Posted by rosebud1218

Looks like March temperatures in Topeka have an average low of 34°F. Of course, that average is influenced by a number of below freezing temperature-days. Given your GeoPro would be winterized prior to your first trip in March, a de-winterizing decision will be influenced by where you're headed and for how long. For peace of mind, consider winterizing if you have been and will continue to be stored/camped in an actual or potential freezing conditions for more than 24 hours. I have a small, 17' teardrop trailer and it takes me less than 30 minutes to winterize. Your winterizing time should be similar and will take the worry and expense out of the equation.

Happy Camping!

https://www.currentresults.com/Weath...ture-march.php

Thank you. How about if I can connect power to the trailer? For example, keeping it in my driveway for a few days. Would that change the approach?

[Marine359]

If you don’t have tank heaters, the shore power connection will not prevent tanks freezing. And shore power connection will not prevent interior plumbing from freezing unless you’re using some kind of heater with all the lower cabinet doors open. An oil type radiator heater is least expensive to operate and safest. A oscillating ceramic heater less safe and will use more electricity. Running the furnace will use a lot of propane and be too expensive. If you’re going to be hooked up to a 15amp household circuit, make sure your heater amperage draw does not exceed 15 amps.

[Persistent]

Water trapped in closed spaces will expand and burst the close space. It does not matter if it is a short period of cold or a long period of cold. If it freezes it will expand and burst the space.

The 023 Geo Pro 19FD has an option package "A" that includes heated tanks. The configuration may be configured to survive freezing weather. Check with the Forest River service people.

Spaces that freeze and burst maybe:
Water pump
Dump valves
pipes run under the floor.
Water faucets
Toilet valves
Outside showers and water supply fittings.
Water filters
Refrigerator ice makers
Water heaters not turned "on" during freezing weather
Water lines with valves or check valves like the "city water" connection

A full water tank can take a much longer time to freeze than a 1/2 inch water faucet. Partially filled waste tanks can freeze without damage, but PVC waste pipes are rigid and will burst.

Use a thermometer to monitor temperatures in plumbing spaces. Consider 40 degrees F a threat and 38 degrees your absolute lower limit. Water starts to expand at 38 degrees F. If you wait for a water jug to freeze on your front porch, the damage will already be done.

If water has started the freezing process in your pipes, you may be unable to drain remaining water. Bursting is inevitable.

[rosebud1218]

Hi Gianfri -
Re: your question using power to trailer while in driveway, I would concur with Jim and Paul's comments above. Unless you have the winter camping option (i.e., heated tanks, etc.), you would risk the possibility of forzen/cracked water pipes. Have you looked at any YouTube videos showing the winterizing/dewinterizing process?

[Gianfri]

Originally Posted by rosebud1218

Hi Gianfri -
Re: your question using power to trailer while in driveway, I would concur with Jim and Paul's comments above. Unless you have the winter camping option (i.e., heated tanks, etc.), you would risk the possibility of forzen/cracked water pipes. Have you looked at any YouTube videos showing the winterizing/dewinterizing process?

Thanks for your information. I have looked at videos showing the process of winterizing and I think I understand it. We are planning to purchase a new Geo Pro 19FD which does come with heated tanks. My question was more about how to handle situations when either while camping or before the time for full winterization there may be some occasional nights below freezing point. This thread has provided some good ideas. Thanks!