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Old 02-19-2017, 09:38 AM   #1
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Newbies with plumbing problems

OK... we're brand new to RV's... which we're now living in.

Problem 1.We have external connection to a septic tank and leach field... the problem is getting the 'wastewater' there... or how exactly to go about it. We can release gray water into the desert wash nearby, or route that to the septic also. Again... hows that work?

Problem 2. We have good water pressure in the shower and toilet, but the bath sink barely trickles and the kitchen not much better. We cannot locate any filters in the RV interior.

Problem 3. The hot water heater is 'on'... the pipes feel warm but the water is NOT.
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:45 AM   #2
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Welcome. It helps to mention the year and model RV you are dealing with. There are many videos online (search google) showing how to empty the waste water.

Do you have hoses to attach to your RV to the sewer?

Google results:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...fe=off&tbm=vid
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:57 AM   #3
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It would be helpful to know the type of RV you have and if listed join that group within the site. What do you mean "external connection"? Gray water should feed out of the gray water tank via a knife valve,located near and into the sewer hose. Same with the black water knife valve.

Check your hot and cold water valves under the sinks and make sure they are open Right to tighten left to loosen.

The main water filter if you have one, might be somewhere close to the city water hook up. Ours is behind the panel where the water controls are, inside the basement plumbing compartment.

John
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:11 AM   #4
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You might also have the hot water bypass open. That is used to winterize by bypassing the HW tank when filling the system with antifreeze. If the valve is open other times it lets cold water flow into the hot side output of the tank. Check your winterizing instructions.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:41 AM   #5
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Faucet spigots have a aerator/filter screen on them. Unscrew and back flush to clean debris out of it, then reinstall. Prior to reinstalling, run water to see if pressure is good with the aerator off.
As for waste water, is there another RV nearby that can help you out? Typically, there is one sewer hose for all 3 waste tanks that runs from your sewer exit to the septic system.
Be aware that the dump valves should probably remain closed until the tanks are nearing full. Then you dump in order of dirtiest to cleanest. Black tank first and run water or tank spray during to help flush, then kitchen gray tank and finally, shower gray tank.
There are a few online videos on dumping waste tanks.
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Rats View Post
OK... we're brand new to RV's... which we're now living in.

Problem 1.We have external connection to a septic tank and leach field... the problem is getting the 'wastewater' there... or how exactly to go about it. We can release gray water into the desert wash nearby, or route that to the septic also. Again... hows that work?
How far from RV to septic tank cleanout connection?
If more then 30' and any uphill slope you would be better off getting a portable macerator pump and using it along with a 3/4" garden hose of appropriate length(s).
Install a RV sewer cap with hose connection on septic tank cleanout so you have a secure connection

Problem 2. We have good water pressure in the shower and toilet, but the bath sink barely trickles and the kitchen not much better. We cannot locate any filters in the RV interior.
Remove aerators on end of faucets and clean or replace

Problem 3. The hot water heater is 'on'... the pipes feel warm but the water is NOT.
Check water heater valving.....cold inlet open and bypass closed. Hot outlet open if you have 3 valve system
Also check that outside shower/inside shower are turned off using hot/cold knobs vs just button on shower handle(s). Hot/cold will mix inside faucet ----luke warm water----if knobs open
Flojet Macerator Pump
FloJet Portable Macerator Waste Pump - $196.57

Septic tank cleanout fitting-----use with 3" sewer hose or add end cap for use with garden hose
EZ Coupler® Bayonet Sewer Fitting - $9.56
Garden hose end cap
Garden Hose Sewer Cap - $3.54

Faucet Aerators------remove 'flow restrictor' for better flow at sinks
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:48 AM   #7
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In addition to the device pictured above.. If your kitchen has a "pull out head" that doubles as a sprayer in addition to the faucet arm...

There is a check valve in the base of the head (Where the head joins the hose). IT can "lime up" and clog.


Waste: There should be 4 little "Nibs" on the outlet, a standard RV waste hose has an adapter that fits over the outlet and "Hooks" onto these nibs, this is a 3" flexible hose.. we usually call it a "Stinky Slinky" Wal*mart carries the Rino-Flex and perhaps some other brands.. This goes from your RV to the nearby hole in the ground. (Sewer/leach field inlet)

I suggest keeping dump vlaves closed till at least half full, then dump first black, then gray, then close valves again. 2/3 is even better epically on the black tank.

However this may overload the leach field ding it that way.

If it's "A long ways off" say 40-50-100 feet.

A Flo-Jet portable macerator and 3/4" or larger "Garden hose" Mine is BLACK rubber. (There is a reason for black)

Black hose = Black water
(Gray (mine is 25') for Gray water)
White = Fresh water
Green is for washing the RV.
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KF5UMC View Post
It would be helpful to know the type of RV you have and if listed join that group within the site. What do you mean "external connection"? Gray water should feed out of the gray water tank via a knife valve,located near and into the sewer hose. Same with the black water knife valve.

Check your hot and cold water valves under the sinks and make sure they are open Right to tighten left to loosen.

The main water filter if you have one, might be somewhere close to the city water hook up. Ours is behind the panel where the water controls are, inside the basement plumbing compartment.

John
RV is a 2009 HH 36'. I have the black water going directly to our septic and leach field on the property. All valves are open. All manifold valves (basement plumbing) are open. Our valve handles line up (left) with the line when open.
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Rats View Post
RV is a 2009 HH 36'. I have the black water going directly to our septic and leach field on the property. All valves are open. All manifold valves (basement plumbing) are open. Our valve handles line up (left) with the line when open.
Be aware, RV systems are designed as Holding Tanks to be dumped when full. They Are Not designed to be used as a Flow Through system.
By leaving the valves open you will allow accumulation of solids in the bottom of the tank and over time, end up with what is commonly referred to as "The Pyramid of Doom". You Do Not want to deal with that.
Leaving the tank dump valves open also leaves the tank open to such things as Sewer Flies and in some cases even Rats to enter the tank. Bad Idea.
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Rats View Post
RV is a 2009 HH 36'. I have the black water going directly to our septic and leach field on the property. All valves are open. All manifold valves (basement plumbing) are open. Our valve handles line up (left) with the line when open.


Your bypass valve for the water heater needs to be off or you will get warm, not hot water.
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:32 PM   #11
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What's a 2009 HH?
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by garbonz View Post
What's a 2009 HH?
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:36 PM   #13
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:38 PM   #14
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Your bypass valve for the water heater needs to be off or you will get warm, not hot water.
Is this on the basement manifold or... ???
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