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Old 02-14-2021, 01:12 PM   #1
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Oil pump

Hello Forum! How hard would it be to replace an oil pump on ‘95 Dolphin with a f53 super duty engine? What would be the cost?
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Old 02-14-2021, 07:16 PM   #2
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You can call any service facility that will work on your engine. The industry typically uses a flate rate manual to determine the costs. Every job has a fixed number of hours each job will require. The number of man hours is determined by those who set up the manuals. It is supposed to be a fare amount of actual time required to perform the repair.

The dealers are supposed to use the flat rate time plus parts to arrive at the cost. Lets say the manual says to R&R your oil pump requires 3.5 hours of labor. You will be charged 3.5 hours of labor at the local technicians flat hourly rate (FHR). That varies from town to town and state to state based on the local cost of living. If the local hourly rate is $100 and hour you're charged $350 plus parts which are usually charged at retail price. Yes they make some $$$$ on the part(s). They count on doing that so don't offer to bring in your own parts. They'll just raise their rates to cover the parts. They will also not allow any warranty if you supply the parts.

The system is used in this way to speed up technicians and assure better quality repairs. If the technician is fast and does the job in 2 or 3 hours they still charge 3.5 hours. If the technician is slow and it takes 5 or 6 hours you are still charged the 3.5 hours. If the tech screws up and the oil pan leaks he/she fixes it on their time and no charge for labor or parts.

Most top technicians can log more than 8 hours of labor in an 8 hour day and therefore make more $$$$$. A good dealer tech can make $100,000 to $130,000 or more a year. They have to be at the top of their game. That requires constant training to stay up with all the changes in technology from year to year and model to model. They will be very skilled, very thorough and make few mistakes.

For us to guess would not really not do you much good. It depends on your local hourly rate per FRH.

When you call or even stop in and ask see what their FR is. That can vary in some towns. A dealer will be higher than an independent shop but an independent shop can do that job just as eaasily. It is not necessary to have a lift to do that job. Yes it might make it easier but then again maybe not. My student who owns his shop changed my AC compressor working on the dirt. He had it done in 90 minutes.

Get several estimates never hurts. Some shops may need work and will lower their rates some.

I have a student who does some of my work. He doesn't charge me his full flat rate just to give me a break. I also recommend a slew of folks to his shop because he is excellent and would never cheat his customers.

How difficult the job would be depends in how difficult it would be to get the oil pan off. The oil pump is towards the bottom of the oil pan in every engine I've ever worked on. Maybe that has changed. If it has the dealer has those changes for each model. The engine may have to be raised to get the pan off.

Any independent shop can bring up the steps needed for such a rapair. They might run a copy of those steps for you. There's two manufacturers who keep up with that information and are sold to independent dealers. One is called Mitchel On Demand and the other is called All Data. They are very expensive and require constant updates as things change. They also have all the TSB's for every vehicle. That's Technicians Service Bulletins. When a manufacturer has a problem they issues a TSB to alert the dealert as to the issue. Some TSB's are (SAFETY related) and the dealer must do them for free and others are not.
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Old 02-15-2021, 12:18 AM   #3
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"Super duty engine"? Pretty sure you mean a 460 (AKA a 7.5)

Replacing the oil pump is easy. A couple of bolts and a distributor shaft. The actual problem is that it is inside the oil pan. Getting THAT off is the hard part because part of the chassis is right under it.

But anyway. You need to just talk to local repair shops for an estimate. Be aware the first thing they will (and should) ask is "Why do you want to replace the oil pump?" And many shops flat won't do that. They might be talked into taking your coach in and using their tools and experience to find out exactly what's wrong with your engine and what it actually needs though.

OK, why do you need an oil pump? It's possible you do but seems unlikely on the face of it. What are the symptoms?
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Old 02-24-2021, 04:04 PM   #4
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There is nothing easy about changing the oil pump on your chassis. The engine will not lift high enough for the pan to clear the cross member. The cross member, which has the motor mount brackets on it, will unbolt but will not come out. You have to slide the cross member forward, which requires removing several bolts and nuts forward of the cross member.
Not a DIY rookie job.

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Old 02-26-2021, 08:21 PM   #5
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Oil pump

Thanks for the info!
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Old 10-20-2021, 06:16 AM   #6
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Oil pump

Hello all. It has been awhile since my last post. To bring everyone up to speed. I have a 1995 Dolphin RV with a F53 superduty engine. A family friend was able to get it running, plugged fuel lines. While it was running after about 5 min, the oil pressure dropped. The engine was turned off and was not started. I was not there when this happened but was told of the event. According to the family friend that got it going, a “pin broke” on the shaft under the distributor cap. This shaft goes down to the oil pan. This seemed odd so I inquired with another mechanic and was told that the oil pump was not primed. Failure to do so will cause the problem just described. Apparently an easy fix. Has anyone else heard of this? Thanks

Hello all. This is an update on the oil pump issue with the RV. Yesterday, I had another mechanic come with me to the rv to give me his diagnosis. He primed the oil pump and turned it with his drill, charged the battery and realigned distributer cap and the RV started right up! The oil pressure gauge was pegged passed the L. So at this point, it could be the pump, oil pressure sensor or a faulty gauge. we replaced thee sensor with a brand new one and still got no oil pressure reading on the gauge. Oil was poured into the engine through the valve cover opening and we waited for a few minutes. The engine was started and an inspection camera was into the engine through the hose coming out of the valve cover and we both saw oil flowing. the question now is Is the oil pressure gauge faulty or the pump? If the pump were bad, would it still produce some kind of a reading on the gauge, 15-20 psi or lower? I am going to replace the gauge first. It was not moving at all. Any advice would be appreciated,thanks!
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Old 10-20-2021, 07:29 AM   #7
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When I was having a problem with oil pressure on my Ford 460 I installed a good old fashion pressure gauge in one of the oil ports that I could easily get to, no sensor to question. It did confirm I had a problem which ended up being a cracked mounting flange on the pick up tube.
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Old 10-20-2021, 11:01 AM   #8
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Screw a mechanical gauge into the oil pressure sensor port and VERIFY oil pressure.
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Old 10-20-2021, 11:43 AM   #9
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A trick that a friend did on his 1980s vintage 454 Chevy... He killed an engine by losing oil pressure and not noticing the gauge dropping to zero until the expensive noises started... Fortunately the new engine was free as he was 80,000 miles into a 100,000 mile warranty.

A little research showed that the oil pressure sensor on the low end Suburbans was a switch that drove an idiot light... the sensor on the higher end models was a variable resistor driving a gauge. The sensor screwed into the side of the block. On the other side of the block, in the same area was a threaded plug... we scavenged a switch sensor from the junkyard and removed the plug and screwed in the switch, and wired it to a noisemaker (in his case, a Cessna aircraft stall warning buzzer). His Suburban had a coolant temperature gauge, we also wired the buzzer to a coolant temperature switch that we also added.

So look around. There is probably a location on your engine where a second sensor could go, or even a mechanical gauge. That lets you keep the stock gauge and also have a peace-of-mind backup.

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Old 10-20-2021, 12:07 PM   #10
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Older Ford gauges are pretty simple. Take the wire off the sender. Turn the ignition key to the "run" position. No need to actually start the engine. Take the end of the wire you took off and ground it to something bare metal on the engine. The block, usually. A second person watching the gauge should report it going ALL the way over when you do and return to zero as soon as you let it go. This will tell you that the gauge and its wiring are basically functional.
If nothing happens then you have to look at the wire you removed for breaks. The gauge itself and if the gauge is getting powered inside the cluster.

If after you figure out your issues you want to add a warning light, it's pretty easy. In the mid 1990's Ford used an oil sender extension on some F350 and F450 trucks with 7.5's and 5.8's that was drilled and tapped for both. Hard to find these days but it's where I got mine. I believe there are now new aftermarket ones sold.
Here's one in use on my '67 Mustang's engine. Big sender for the gauge, small sender for the light.

I have another one I keep for test purposes. Put it in with the stock gauge and then add my shop gauge and I can see what psi I actually have and correlate that to whatever the stock gauge is pointing at. The only two readings I want then are idling hot and what it has hot at about 4000 RPM. In-between and what it reads cold aren't all that useful to know.
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Old 10-20-2021, 08:15 PM   #11
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Are you in Ca?
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Old 10-20-2021, 08:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liuhisn View Post
Are you in Ca?
And who is that question directed to?
So far there are 5 of us here...

Mike
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:36 PM   #13
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Oil pump

Hello Here is an update for the oil pump issue. I replaced the oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge and still did not get any pressure! I did notice a more pronounced rhythmic ticking sound coming from the engine. I immediately shut the engine off and thought about the situation. I realized that the last time I was there, the mechanic poured some oil into the valve cover through the pvc opening and had turned the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill. This time I was by myself and did not do this. The clicking sound may be a stuck lifter. In theory, some SeaFoam in the crankcase and then turning the oil pump drive shaft with a drill help loosen any gunk buildup? Any thoughts?
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liuhisn View Post
Hello Here is an update for the oil pump issue. I replaced the oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge and still did not get any pressure! I did notice a more pronounced rhythmic ticking sound coming from the engine. I immediately shut the engine off and thought about the situation. I realized that the last time I was there, the mechanic poured some oil into the valve cover through the pvc opening and had turned the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill. This time I was by myself and did not do this. The clicking sound may be a stuck lifter. In theory, some SeaFoam in the crankcase and then turning the oil pump drive shaft with a drill help loosen any gunk buildup? Any thoughts?
Perhaps , attaching this post to your original thread would help , because right now all I have is questions .

What are you working on ?
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