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10-19-2015, 06:42 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
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Park brake lever, air leak
My wife has constantly talked about a sssssss she heard. I just had a Cochlear implant. This is our first trip and NOW I AM HEARING IT so it must be time to fix it. Stopping over night I have found the leak. The leak is around the stem of the Push/Pull lever (on/off).
This is a 38.5' 2000 Diplomat 315 Cummings. I drained it down to 0 lbs pressure, but I cannot see away to take it apart. My hope is to replace the 'o' rings that must be in there somewhere! ;-) Anyone know an answer, or suggestion. We are headed toward Wildwood, FL.
Thanks.
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10-20-2015, 03:31 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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You could try getting some glycerin into the o ring by the shaft and working it in and out. Of coarse the pressure should be zero at the valve. If this does not correct the problem a new valve is in order. Good luck and keep us posted. Save travels.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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10-20-2015, 03:41 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,563
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Have you priced a new brake push/pull switch? I didn't think they were that expensive. It a standard air brake system component, so ought to be widely available at truck repoair & parts shops, and competitively priced.
If in Wildwood, maybe Alliance RV could supply one. They are good folks to work with (but they still charge "RV prices").
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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10-20-2015, 10:38 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Wizard
You could try getting some glycerin into the o ring by the shaft and working it in and out. Of coarse the pressure should be zero at the valve. If this does not correct the problem a new valve is in order. Good luck and keep us posted. Save travels.
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Strange, this morning I started off and NO sssssss. That worries me, like a water leak, I cannot see it fixing itself. Anyway I have it down to 0 pressure, and I will give the lub a shot.
Thanks to all, for the pointers.
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10-21-2015, 04:42 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: N E Ohio
Posts: 4,403
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jacsher,
You might want to have a certified truck brake mechanic check the leak out, sometimes there is a problem with the spring loaded brake "maxi" on the rear axle, this causes an air bypass like what you are hearing.
Frank
__________________
05 Alfa Gold 40' Motor Home "Goldie",
03 Malibu Toad
in a 24' CargoMate trailer.
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10-21-2015, 06:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,348
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Sometimes the valve mounting screws are loose or the locknut under the knob is run down the threads. This causes the knob to not push in completly, causing a leak.
Check it out.
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10-21-2015, 09:07 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: B.C.
Posts: 4,638
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Most times if you wiggle the knob a bit it will reseat itself and quit leaking. As a matter of fact the truck I am driving right now does that and a little wiggle stops it.
If that does not work then eventually you will have to replace it.
__________________
Dennis & Marcie & Captain Hook The Jack Russell,aka PUP, 2006 Itasca 29R 2017 Equinox toad. RVM59
We came, we went, nothing broken, nothing bent!
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10-22-2015, 07:06 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickest1
Most times if you wiggle the knob a bit it will reseat itself and quit leaking. As a matter of fact the truck I am driving right now does that and a little wiggle stops it.
If that does not work then eventually you will have to replace it.
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Yeah, It started again. I knew I needed to replace it. I wiggled it a little, also at zero PSI I tried putting silicon in, still a leak.
GAry above suggest just replacing it. I found it on the net for 26$. Then took a trip to NAPA they will have a valve for me in the morning,for $38.
I was worried about R&R because of the configuration to remove the lines. But then I looked closely at the lines are quick disconnect, this is going to be a breeze I said. (Then remembering I have said that before on something simple then, I revised that.
Thanks again for the assistance. I will let you know when I geterin. if I do have problems or not, I will let you guys know...
BTW an old friend, head mech at a USP shop heard of my trouble. He e-mailed me saying he had replaced the o rings before in this Milton pish/pull, but the unit being plastic, best to replace it.
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10-25-2015, 06:08 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
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Fixed
I picked up the replacement valve at NAPA, It wasn't too much of a hassle, One quick release didn't want to cooperate so I had to cut the line to get it out so I could see to work clear. The unit is not metal I always worry about too much torque, but it went well and no leaks.
Thanks again for tips and suggestions.
Jack
On a side note, the Cochlear implant sure makes it easy to fix something 'The wife hears'.
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