Community Forums

scott2020 · 08-09-2018, 02:55 PM

Hi,
We rented an RV for a trip and had a blast. We have the bug and I'm looking at a good starter motorhome.

I found a 2008 Itasca about 4 hours from me. I plan to go see it soon.

My question is around some of the logistics. I have read a few posts here about buying out of state and such, so I think I can handle that. I am wondering about putting down a deposit with a private party. I'd like to put down $500 or so (on just under $40k asking price) so they won't sell it to someone else. I want to get it inspected independently, and if for some reason it fails or the seller does not agree to fixing what is wrong or some other compensation, I don't want to be out my $500. If I change my mind, I can see them wanting to keep the $500 for their troubles. Is that something that happens typically? Also, is there some kind of sample paperwork or boilerplate type agreements that would cover something like this?

thanks for any advice!

weredoingit · 08-09-2018, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scott2020

Hi,
We rented an RV for a trip and had a blast. We have the bug and I'm looking at a good starter motorhome.

I found a 2008 Itasca about 4 hours from me. I plan to go see it soon.

My question is around some of the logistics. I have read a few posts here about buying out of state and such, so I think I can handle that. I am wondering about putting down a deposit with a private party. I'd like to put down $500 or so (on just under $40k asking price) so they won't sell it to someone else. I want to get it inspected independently, and if for some reason it fails or the seller does not agree to fixing what is wrong or some other compensation, I don't want to be out my $500. If I change my mind, I can see them wanting to keep the $500 for their troubles. Is that something that happens typically? Also, is there some kind of sample paperwork or boilerplate type agreements that would cover something like this?

thanks for any advice!

I would do some research and find a shop of your choosing, in that area, then go inspect it, test drive it and if you like it Make an offer on the condition it passes your shops inspection. If the seller agrees and then if something comes up in the inspection, negotiate on that. If the seller doesn't want you to take it to your shop, then leave.

winniman · 08-09-2018, 03:25 PM

Make sure there are no liens on the title. Im sure if you are driving from out of state, the person knows you are serious. I would think for 40 k there will be some things needing repaired. Is the owner selling it as is. If so he wont fix anything, it will be up to you.

scott2020 · 08-09-2018, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winniman

Make sure there are no liens on the title. Im sure if you are driving from out of state, the person knows you are serious. I would think for 40 k there will be some things needing repaired. Is the owner selling it as is. If so he wont fix anything, it will be up to you.

Thanks for the replies. The listing doesn't specifically say "as-is" but I was making that assumption. They did tell me that one awning would need to be replaced and tires, so there is probably room for negotiation. I found a site "nrvia" and a person who is willing to travel there to do an inspection, which I think will be money well spent. I'm expecting flaws of course, but it has the floorplan we like, price is in budget, and as long as the inspection is OK it might work out.
thanks!

ThePowells · 08-09-2018, 06:13 PM

Welcome to the forum!

JimmyB2 · 08-09-2018, 07:36 PM

It is called a "non refundable deposit" and typically $1000.

chaps2018 · 08-09-2018, 08:20 PM

I have sold several preowned motorcycles, watercraft, and several travel trailers. Both as a small business owner and as an individual. I realize all three of the above categories are not motorhomes but read on anyway.

Here is my protocol for selling;
1) Due to either liability (if the prospective buyer gets hurt) or property damage (the prospective buyer damages my property) I will not offer test drives. There is too much to loose on both sides. In the case of the motorcycle, I have offered to immediately reverse the sale if the buyer decides they don't want it after a spin around the block and it is not damaged.

2)CASH: Immediate delivery of title and vehicle. The transaction will occur at my bank where the buyer will give the teller cash and I will give the teller my deposit slip. This provides a neutral location to conduct the sale and protects me from counterfeit bills. CHECKs: Wait 5 days (Bank's rules to guarantee my $$) for the check to clear. This applies to any check from any entity (Banks's rules). After 5 days, title and vehicle is available for pick up. No Paypal, no wire (Bank's recommendation)

3)Bill of Sale and Title(s) are the only documents required to conduct the sale (in Texas anyway). The bill of sale will state all the pertinent info and SOLD AS IS.

I have had good luck selling (all on Craigslist) and it does not take more than one or two prospective buyers to close the deal.

Obviously dealers have more financial capacity and/or insurance to absorb issues if they arise with a potential buyer. I do not have that sort of capacity to "absorb" problems as a small business owner or an individual.

I am outlining my practices as 1)I believe both parties will get a better deal vs working with a dealer and 2)I believe the practices are common sense, reasonable and protect both parties from any issues arising.

Good luck in your search!

MSHappyCampers · 08-10-2018, 11:41 AM

Hi !

Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I haven't been in that situation so can't comment.

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

txcpl · 08-11-2018, 03:51 AM

I agree with BJLakatos. Remember you can provide your own Bill Of Sale with any specific points you want included. We have purchased RV's and used our bank as well as the seller's bank with great success.

Good luck

JFNM · 08-11-2018, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scott2020

I am wondering about putting down a deposit with a private party.

My process has varied depending on the person (when I'm selling) and the item. I generally don't care for deposits and will refuse them. If someone comes along with cash and wants the thing right now, it's theirs. If I do accept a deposit, it is documented (on paper) with a time limit and, for a $40k MH, would be a lot more than $500.

I would not let a potential buyer drive my MH. If they seem serious, I would take them for a short drive (me driving). I have heard ideas of "using the MH for a day", "allowing potential buyer to spend a night in it", etc... I would not allow any of that. That said, I would expect to spend 2-3 hours with a serious buyer going over the MH. Once purchased, that much time again - maybe double - explaining the details of operating it.

An 'inspection' is difficult - ESPECIALLY if the coach needs to go somewhere and into some shop. There is ALWAYS risk to the owner that someone is going to damage something. I don't have a good solution for that. I would not immediately except the seller to fix (or adjust price) for whatever an inspection might uncover (assuming not a major issue). I'm thinking of something like worn tie rods on a coach with 100k mile on it (for example).

I am very honest about anything I am selling - what works, what doesn't, what issues it has, photos, and so forth (I know not everyone is that way). When it comes time to negotiation, I don't do much (I don't have that type of personality). The price I set is the price I want. A buyer is free to offer something less and I will consider it. If they start up with 'this is wrong' and 'I need to replace that', and 'I don't like the color of the...' - well... all that is a big turn off to me. I generally say something like "sounds like you don't want it so thanks for taking a look and have a nice day."

I apply the same rules when I'm buying something. If it is more than I want to spend or I think it is overpriced. I'll offer what I am comfortable with and leave it at that - I feel no need to justify my offer (by talking 'down' the item or insulting the seller).

EDIT: All of the above sounds pretty negative so worth mentioning... The last coach I sold was a 2005 Newmar Dutch Star. The folks that purchased it were fantastic people. I immediately fell in love with them and we quickly became best of fiends (and still are three years later). That sale was incredibly easy because of the trust that we immediately felt for each other. Of course, it doesn't always go that way.

Fiesta48 · 08-11-2018, 07:30 AM

I always state in an ad:
NO lowballers, nit pickers, scammers, and CASH only, no checks. Local sales only. Must come to see and buy. No test drives unless I'm driving. And I will report it to the state who I sold it to. I remove the tags.

mobilemike · 08-13-2018, 12:11 PM

I have done pre purchase mechanical inspections for boats for 20+ years.

The general rule I have found is;
Unless stated in the add and priced accordingly, the rig is operating correctly with operational systems functioning.

Systems that effect the operation are the sellers responsibility.

scott2020 · 08-13-2018, 03:41 PM

Thanks for all of the replies. Very helpful!
I looked at the RV and to me, it looks great. It runs well, and we even drove it for a short distance. In the time I had, we did not get to test everything, and given my lack of experience with motor homes, I think an inspection by a qualified person is a good idea.

It isn't because I lack trust in the seller. They seem like great people and have been very accommodating. I would feel better if someone who knew more went through everything so I know what to expect. I know of a few things that need to be fixed, but we didn't test things like the furnace, oven, or even run water through it.

So far so good though, and I'm looking forward to getting on the road!

Ramets · 08-14-2018, 07:18 AM

I bought ours out of state. I found an RV inspector who was willing to travel to check it out for me, and after he gave me the thumbs up, I traveled out to pick it up after some negotiation on the price. One thing I HAD to have is the service records. Without those....no sale! Some people don't keep up the maintenance, especially if they're planning on selling. So once again, no maintenance records....no sale.