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Old 01-30-2011, 10:59 AM   #1
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Propane detector on my 83 Pace Arrow

After my rewiring of my battery banks I thought I had a problem with my propane system because the light on my propane detector did not come on and I was unable to get any propane to my stove so this morning I took it off of the wall and tested each wire connection it to the power source and each lit my test lamp, so I must assume that because I now know I have 12 volts to each of the 4 wires that is not the problem.

I had assumed because based on the panel on my dash, that says my tank is 3/4 full and the glass gauge on the tank it looks as if I have just less then half a tank, but not really having any experience reading the glass gauge I could be reading it wrong so I must now assume I have no propane, does that sound correct?
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:16 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kartvines View Post
After my rewiring of my battery banks I thought I had a problem with my propane system because the light on my propane detector did not come on and I was unable to get any propane to my stove so this morning I took it off of the wall and tested each wire connection it to the power source and each lit my test lamp, so I must assume that because I now know I have 12 volts to each of the 4 wires that is not the problem.

I had assumed because based on the panel on my dash, that says my tank is 3/4 full and the glass gauge on the tank it looks as if I have just less then half a tank, but not really having any experience reading the glass gauge I could be reading it wrong so I must now assume I have no propane, does that sound correct?
Hi Kartvines,

Most propane detectors are within inches of the floor and yours should have an on/off switch which, I would assume, you have turned on.
If the green light doesn’t come on and no warning sound is apparent and the wiring is correct then your propane detector seems not to be viable anymore. They are only supposed to last for 10 years or so, therefore it's time to get a replacement.
Check the name and model of your old one and see if you can get a direct replacement or similar unit.
Does the propane flow to your stove, etc. anymore????




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Old 01-30-2011, 12:48 PM   #3
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detector

Well being it worked when we tested it when we bought it I had to assume I create the problem, No I get no propane to the stove or anything, I went so far as to test it with a butane lighter next to the device and it did nothing,so light no sound. I could not locate a maker and or model number so that is not helpful, are they pretty general overall?

I also went back to the propane tank and with a flashlight I was able to see that based solely of the glass gauge I have almost a half tank of propane.

I checked the paperwork I found in the RV when I bought it and found this:

http://1983fleetwoodpacearrowownersm...-detector.html

So it is a Manchester, can any one tell me if there is a replacement and or can it be repaired.

As far a fuses, if I have power to all of the four wires , would that tell me that I have not blown a fuse?
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:19 PM   #4
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Well being it worked when we tested it when we bought it I had to assume I create the problem, No I get no propane to the stove or anything, I went so far as to test it with a butane lighter next to the device and it did nothing,so light no sound. I could not locate a maker and or model number so that is not helpful, are they pretty general overall?

I also went back to the propane tank and with a flashlight I was able to see that based solely of the glass gauge I have almost a half tank of propane.
Check all 12 volt fuses. You may have blown one


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Old 01-30-2011, 01:26 PM   #5
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Steve, if all 4 of the wires in the rear of the detector has power doesn't that tell me that no fuse is blown?
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:03 PM   #6
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Steve, if all 4 of the wires in the rear of the detector has power doesn't that tell me that no fuse is blown?


You are correct.

Call this place and let them know you have a Manchester Lp detector.
Propane and CO Detectors/Alarms, Leak Dectector, Pressure Test Kit



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Old 01-30-2011, 02:50 PM   #7
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With all four of the wires to your detector showing power, would in itself be part of your problem. One of those wires, I would think, would be a power source to the gas valve should the detector detect propane and close the valve. I'm not familiar with the system, but one of the wires should not be showing power if the gas valve is open...which could be why you're not getting any propane to your appliances. If the 'gas on' indicator is lit and your not getting gas, you may have a logic board failure inside the detector and the unit is toast.

In this throw away society, the detector may or may not be repairable...only Manchester would know - if they're still in business. Good luck. Bob
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:19 PM   #8
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With all four of the wires to your detector showing power, would in itself be part of your problem. One of those wires, I would think, would be a power source to the gas valve should the detector detect propane and close the valve. I'm not familiar with the system, but one of the wires should not be showing power if the gas valve is open...which could be why you're not getting any propane to your appliances. If the 'gas on' indicator is lit and your not getting gas, you may have a logic board failure inside the detector and the unit is toast.

In this throw away society, the detector may or may not be repairable...only Manchester would know - if they're still in business. Good luck. Bob

I have to admit that I have no clue on these systems being they are far advance to the ones I installed in my vintage travel trailers, so I have no ideas of opinion of the status of this unit, no lights come on and I am unable to see any indication that it is on and or working.

So you are of the opinion that it is toast, do you know if these detector unit are pretty universal, and can be replaced by most any other unit that has the same four wires hook up?
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:03 PM   #9
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no lights come on and I am unable to see any indication that it is on and or working.

So you are of the opinion that it is toast, do you know if these detector unit are pretty universal, and can be replaced by most any other unit that has the same four wires hook up?
Yeah, think so. With power on all wires and no lights, I would think the logic board, albeit a simple one, is toast. Whether it can be replaced...??

If it were mine, I'd disconnect the detector(appropriate c/b's pulled and wires marked) and take it to maybe an RV parts store...ask or try to match one with the same features. Some detectors may or may not have the feature, that if propane is sensed, it will send an electrical signal to turn the gas valve off. Would be nice if you had a wiring diagram... Probably be asking too much that Manchester labeled the detector's wiring on the back of it?? That might help with the match up.

Hopefully some one will come along and be able to help more than I. Bob
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:04 AM   #10
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Yeah, think so. With power on all wires and no lights, I would think the logic board, albeit a simple one, is toast. Whether it can be replaced...??

If it were mine, I'd disconnect the detector(appropriate c/b's pulled and wires marked) and take it to maybe an RV parts store...ask or try to match one with the same features. Some detectors may or may not have the feature, that if propane is sensed, it will send an electrical signal to turn the gas valve off. Would be nice if you had a wiring diagram... Probably be asking too much that Manchester labeled the detector's wiring on the back of it?? That might help with the match up.

Hopefully some one will come along and be able to help more than I. Bob
After further research on line it I discovered one that looked like it and it was labeled as a CCI 7719, and I locate the wiring diagram the red goes to power it has two the yellow goes to the solenoid and the black goes to ground. regardless I still need to locate one the activates the propane solenoid otherwise I have no propane delivery to my stove etc.

That being said I wonder. being I now know what wires go to the solenoid, and I must also assume that being all 4 wires has power that the solenoid system must be normally open and being the solenoid wire has been activated and closed, that if I cut the yellow wire deactivation the solenoid it would turn the gas back on, does this sound reasonable?
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Old 01-31-2011, 04:24 PM   #11
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You might want to ask this question in the Fleetwood section of the Owner's Corner Forum. There is someone there that may have your same unit and be able to help.

Different manufacturers can rig those gas valves differently. From a safety viewpoint, I would have thought that your gas valve would be 'open' with power on and would close should system power be lost. You could verify(v/ohm meter) if the valve is open with power on...what way you would know there is blockage downstream from the valve causing your 'no flow' condition. Bob
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