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07-02-2015, 09:58 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Grantsburg, Indiana
Posts: 22
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Question on sealing nose cap seam.
Our 2004 Prowler 5th wheel developed a leak in the seam where the rubber roof section and nose cap come together. I have it sealed with non-silicon caulk and have ordered a roll of eternabond tape for a more permanent repair.
My question is should I remove all the old sealing compound from the seam and from around the attaching screws then apply the tape, leave all the old seal and apply the tape over this or fair the old seal in with new sealant then apply the tape over this?
I searched and found a lot of good information but could not find where this was addressed.
Thanks
__________________
2004 Prowler Regal 285RKS
2001 Dodge 2500QC CTD
U.S. Navy retired (STS1/SS)
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07-02-2015, 11:36 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,927
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You could use a putty knife and a heat gun to remove some of the lumpier globs of caulk. If it's still flexible, not cracked and falling off, removing the lumps and using EternaBond tape over the seam should work for a long time. Acetone can also remove any putty you don't want to tape over.
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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07-02-2015, 02:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 155
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A clean sealant free surface will give you the best chance of lifetime fix. Also, it will look far better if you remove the old sealant first. Best to use a masking tape line to guide your application too.
Dave
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07-02-2015, 09:38 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,450
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When I did mine, I got as much old caulk off as possible with a moderate amount of effort. Wiped down area with mineral spirits ........... spray area with Eternabond Primer ..........once down, apply firm pressure to Eternabond tape as this activates the adhesion. Then forget about it for over a decade.
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George R. - Fulltiming since January '03
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 3991
2012 Chevy Malibu LT1
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07-02-2015, 10:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 297
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I had the same problem with my MH and when I took some of the old sealant off, I found it had not bonded to either surface, the roof or the seam. This was done at the factory and they didn't ensure it was all contacting.
Needless to say I redid my entire roof by removing as much of the old sealant, in the seams as possible and then I cleaned them with a little dawn and water and then denatured alcohol. Then I used Dicor self leveling and put two coats on. Looks good and so far two heavy rains and no leaks.
__________________
Retired Army, Disabled Veteran
Wife, me, and 2006 Coachman Cross Country 372DS makes three, Demco Kar Kaddy SS
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07-03-2015, 01:06 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2008
Location: N. Palm Springs CA (in winter)
Posts: 2,420
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Remove pealing and separating caulking. Then use EBDM Liquid Rubber and totally seal the entire roof and cap seams with one coat. It's DIY, no primer needed, 10 year warranty and not water base either.
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07-04-2015, 06:56 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Grantsburg, Indiana
Posts: 22
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I have the eternabond tape already so I will use it after removing what caulk I can and cleaning the area.
I have seen on other forums that acetone can be used instead of the eternabond primer, is this true or should I pony up for the actual primer?
Thanks for all the responses.
__________________
2004 Prowler Regal 285RKS
2001 Dodge 2500QC CTD
U.S. Navy retired (STS1/SS)
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07-04-2015, 07:13 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbarsranch
Our 2004 Prowler 5th wheel developed a leak in the seam where the rubber roof section and nose cap come together. I have it sealed with non-silicon caulk and have ordered a roll of eternabond tape for a more permanent repair.
My question is should I remove all the old sealing compound from the seam and from around the attaching screws then apply the tape, leave all the old seal and apply the tape over this or fair the old seal in with new sealant then apply the tape over this?
I searched and found a lot of good information but could not find where this was addressed.
Thanks
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mcbarsranch
When I redid my front and rear cap seams I used a $20 tool ( Oscillating Multifunction Power Tool) with a scrapper blade attached to remove the old caulk.
Mel
'96 Safari
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07-04-2015, 08:25 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 25,965
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Acetone is a cleaner, not a primer. Eternabond also makes Eterna Clean and the acetone is a good substitute for that. Eterna Prime is a bit different and is intended for surfaces that could not be adequately cleaned. So if you can clean sufficiently with acetone or whatever, you probably don't need EternaPrime at all.
See EternaPrime brochure: http://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfiles...e-brochure.pdf
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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07-04-2015, 09:18 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,927
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I agree with Gary RVRoamer, unless the area the tape is going is in really bad condition, after a good cleaning and prep you don't need to spend the $40 for a spray can of EternaPrime. Acetone will remove most anything on an RV roof to clean enough for a good bond.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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07-05-2015, 06:18 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Grantsburg, Indiana
Posts: 22
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Gary and BFlinn, thanks. I bought the cleaner with the tape. When I did the temporary repair I used a regular spray on cleaner and a greenie and the area cleaned up very well.
Now if the rain would stop here in southern Indiana I'll get the permanent repair done.
Thanks to all who posted.
__________________
2004 Prowler Regal 285RKS
2001 Dodge 2500QC CTD
U.S. Navy retired (STS1/SS)
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