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Old 04-10-2018, 02:15 PM   #43
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Keep in mind there is a difference between a MH charging house batteries and a pickup charging the 5th wheel or TT batteries.
A DP MH will have a larger higher output alternator. Now a gas MH will have maybe the same as a pickup. A MH will have a shorter distance between the house batteries and the alternator & use much larger wiring. A pickup will maybe have & #10 charge wire at the largest. Most times it will be more like a #12 or 14 which causes resistance.
If you have good charged house batteries on you TT or 5th wheel your tow vehicle will keep them charged even with a RR fridge.
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Old 04-10-2018, 03:20 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Yet, when you order a towing package, it includes a heavy duty, high output alternator.

Is that just for a couple of extra tail and marker lights ?

That’s not necessarily true, at least for GMC and Chevy. I have a Silverado on order. If I recall correctly, it comes with a 150 amp alternator. You can either opt for a 220 amp alternator or dual 150 and 220 amp alternators. Tow options have nothing to do with it. A tow package with an upgraded alternator sounds like more of an SUV thing.
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Old 04-10-2018, 04:31 PM   #45
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This was in response to my comment that he would probably make it through the night but need a generator in the morning. Just to clarify, are you saying he will not make it through the night or not need a generator in the morning?
should make it and not need a genny right away, how cold it is , how often its opened ,ambient temps so many variables...... but a 5 star fridge is incredibly low power draw. pre cooled and loaded I am comfortable away from power (traveling) for 2 days.
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Old 04-10-2018, 04:36 PM   #46
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I'm not sure why folks are now so down on absorbtion refers in RVs. We've been using them for many years with no issue at all. I know there were some that had a problem with failed cooling units and some fires as a result. If that's the reason for folks to switch to a RR wouldn't this be a better solution?

Atwood 11005 8 Cubic Feet Helium Refrigerator Right Hand

One came in our motorhome and works just like all the previous refers we had. It's a direct replacement regarding size and mounting. Same electrical connections and propane connections. Should be a very easy swap and cheaper too. No need for extra batteries, inverters, solar and all the other infrastructure necessary to support a RR.
To be fair the only reason RR are installed is because of one fridge - norcold and only the biggest ones.
Fire hazard and barly functional ,consider yourself lucky and stay away from the big norcold units.
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Old 04-10-2018, 04:47 PM   #47
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To be fair the only reason RR are installed is because of one fridge - norcold and only the biggest ones.
Fire hazard and barly functional ,consider yourself lucky and stay away from the big norcold units.
That's not true. I have a Dometic gas fridge and will be replacing it soon.

Its set on the highest setting and not keeping my Klondike bars frozen on warm days.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:02 PM   #48
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Really like our residential fridge. Had to replace the evaporative in the 5er. $1600.00. Had I know then what I know now the replacement would have been residential $800.00.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:04 PM   #49
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We intentional stuck with an absorption unit on our new RV. Glad we did. Takes minimal electrical power to operate and keeps everything, including ice cream, rock hard. As long as it's reasonably level, we can leave it for days. Have 2 solar panels which keep the batteries charged.


This is the whole point IMO. Yours works very well and fits you needs so that is the best one could hope for.
Now for the ones who perhaps still have a 1200 or has poor performance on their existing unit I would certainly consider a RR if it meets your camping lifestyle especially with a charging resource.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:10 PM   #50
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residential refrigerator regrets??

In July I’ll get my 2nd of 4 checks from Norcold, totaling $916. I'm still surprised at how many units are for sale on dealer lots with those 1200's still in them. I wonder what the dealers disclose if anything. I could see trouble for them down the road not disclosing it and selling them. Wait till the unsuspecting buyer finds out about these units. This isn't over I'm afraid.
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Old 04-10-2018, 06:38 PM   #51
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When you turn your truck heater fan, to high, and turn on the wipers, the charging system senses that.

If you plug your trailer cord into the truck, it will sense that too.

You won't get high amp battery charging, but enough to maintain the batteries, running an inverter, powering a residential fridge.

You still have a wire problem. Counting on a long run of 12 gauge wire to charge your batteries isn’t realistic. A heavier gauge is needed.
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Old 04-10-2018, 07:04 PM   #52
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You still have a wire problem. Counting on a long run of 12 gauge wire to charge your batteries isn’t realistic. A heavier gauge is needed.
The point is not to " charge " the batteries in the trailer, it to maintain them while the inverter runs the fridge.

At the, most the inverter will draw 25 amps @ 12 volts DC, to run the fridge. But that will be only about 1/3 of the time.

The other 2/3rds of the time, the charging, thru the 12? gauge wire, will keep the batteries full.
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Old 04-11-2018, 07:06 AM   #53
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The alternator In trucks are designed to meet the needs of the truck and can be overused if run continuously. Very expensive to replace.
Arizona, your alternator DOES run continuously anytime the engine is running. Also, I replaced the alternator in my F350 last August. Total cost was $135.67 for the upgraded, lifetime warranty alternator through Advance Auto Parts, and I upgraded to the larger output model. Took about 10 minutes to change, in the Advance Auto Parts parking lot, using their tools . . .
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Old 04-11-2018, 07:36 AM   #54
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OK, here goes the proverbial dumb question....what is the actual real quantifiable benefit of moving from a standard RV fridge to a residential all electric fridge. Seems to me that space is not a factor unless one is willing to modify the space for the fridge to "live" in provided by the manufacturer. I am always interested in better options for my camping.
Legolas, as mentioned above, the cost of a new RR (residential refrigerator) is often less than the cost of repair of an absorbtion RV fridge. The cost of REPLACEMENT of an absorbtion fridge, vrs change over to a RR is perhaps a third the cost of replacing an absorbtion fridge if you can do the work yourself.

In some cases, a RR uses less electricity than a standard RV fridge, even when running on propane.

If you are able to max out the "cube" space taken up by an absorbtion fridge, with a RR, you actually GAIN cubic feet of conditioned space since the actual cooling unit of a RR takes up less space then the cooling unit of an absorbtion fridge.

People are also concerned about the fire hazard associated with the absorbtion fridges. I realize that many people discount the danger, but when we were looking for our last RV, we looked at 3 (three) RV's, one TT, and two fifth wheel, "fixer uppers" that had had fridge fires . . . all within 30 miles of our house . . . all totaled by the insurance companies, but bought back by the owners, who then realized that the smoke and fire damage to cabinets, roof, etc were too extensive (hence their being totaled) for them to repair themselves. All three were caught very soon into the event and the active fires extinguished, but all three resulted in totals. Luckily all three also happened during the day. I hate to imagine what would have happened if the fires had happened while the occupants were asleep, trying to get out in a toxic smoke filled environment . . . That throught alone was enough for us to replace the original absorbtion fridge in our coach with a RR.
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Old 04-11-2018, 02:39 PM   #55
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Hit the Rhod,

Thanks for your informative post. You guys on this site are going to cause me to spend a bunch of $$$. I traded in my TT on 3/13/2018 for 2017 Minnie Winnie 31K. The TT was my second one and I have been rv'ng since 3/12/2011. Got tired of the unhooking, leveling and then hooking back up with the TT; along with other benefits the MH gives me. I will miss the space I had in the TT (30 ft rear living and very nice). Anyway, just last Friday I dropped off the MH at General RV to have them install a 2000W inverter. Mainly for using computer and watching TV. Never thought about the fridges before. So I have some questions for whoever wants to chime in:

1. Where would one get the RR to replace a Norcold or Dometic, purchase from supplier and have it delivered to the RV shop or have the RV Shop purchase? I would not feel comfortable doing a change over myself and so would have an RV shop do it. I am fortunate to have a great dealer near me, they have worked on my TT several times.
2.As to power, I haven't boondocked before merely because I didn't want to do the necessary upgrades to the TT - hence my adding an inverter to the MH. Would like to do some Forest Service campgrounds and also some National Park Campgrounds that don't have hook ups - I missed out on staying at the North Rim campground a couple of years ago for that reason. SO, a battery upgrade to GR 27 or 31 ( batteries in the MH are stock from Winnebago factory) plus a small solar setup? One or both?

I may consider pulling out the fridge in the MH and replacing it with an RR fridge.

This MH will be my last purchase and so I want to get all the mods done to it asap hopefully before I start camping this year. One upgrade on deck is removal of the sofa to be replaced with 2 recliners.

A long winded post I know - I didnt realize the unknowns I'd encounter in moving from the TT to an MH. I feel like a reaal newby.

Thanks
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Old 04-11-2018, 02:57 PM   #56
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First thing is to measure the space available for a new RR. Then shop around for one that fits--should be several posts about previous replacements for your exact RV fridge, so you can get an idea of what fits. Find one that fits, and has all features you like, then shop price. Since you like/trust your dealer, talk with him and get the RR sent direct to him. The electrical plug should already be there to use, so just a matter of removing the old unit and getting the new one in securely. Be sure to check door swings, as new one will need to allow door(s) to open completely and not hit enclosure.
You already have a gen to back up the batteries, so an upgrade to good 6volt deep cycles will be a good addition to run the RR. If you want solar to run the RR, then you need to know the amp draw and probably a 1000w inverter will run it fine, with the correct panels/controller.
If you haven't already noticed it--an RV is never 'finished'....
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