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11-09-2021, 12:55 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 93
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running electric heater off generator..
Just want to say thanks again (to all who responded) for the great input on my question.. I do wish my Onan was equipped with an outlet on the unit itself, so I could plug in a heavier gauge extension cord for such higher draw devices as a cube heater or electric fry pan (I like to cook my fish outside, don't want the "aroma" inside the coach ) because any electric cord that gets warm should serve as a safety warning (to go with a thicker gauge cord) also, if my converter box ever has a failure, I could still run a regular extension cord in to keep things going inside the coach.. i have checked it out on my RV, and there doesn't seem to be any outlet/receptacle on the generator itself.. Perhaps the manufacturer is concerned that users might tend to overload it by plugging too many devices in ? Of course, the breakers should trip if that does happen.. But better safe than sorry. Anyhow, the great advice is much appreciated..
__________________
"Hook-Line-N-Blinker" Michigan and Florida 
1999 Mountain High Pinnacle model 3480 37 Ft. (F53)
16 Ft flatbed T/A car carrier trailer
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11-09-2021, 04:24 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenThereB4
Just want to say thanks again (to all who responded) for the great input on my question.. I do wish my Onan was equipped with an outlet on the unit itself, so I could plug in a heavier gauge extension cord for such higher draw devices as a cube heater or electric fry pan (I like to cook my fish outside, don't want the "aroma" inside the coach ) because any electric cord that gets warm should serve as a safety warning (to go with a thicker gauge cord) also, if my converter box ever has a failure, I could still run a regular extension cord in to keep things going inside the coach.. i have checked it out on my RV, and there doesn't seem to be any outlet/receptacle on the generator itself.. Perhaps the manufacturer is concerned that users might tend to overload it by plugging too many devices in ? Of course, the breakers should trip if that does happen.. But better safe than sorry. Anyhow, the great advice is much appreciated..
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Yours probably has the transfer switch but if not, then you could always install a duplex receptacle right next to the genset fed 30 amp outlet that you plug your shore power cord into for genset usage.
As far as warm plugs/outlets, that is a warning that you need to keep an eye on. Our rig has 14 gauge romex run to the outlets and I realize the outlets are not of the best quality. Still, I have no trouble running the heater all night long on its 900 watt setting. I do run it at times on the 1500 setting and notice that the plug gets slightly warm but I keep an eye on it to make sure no problems develop. I don't leave it running on high un-attended.
Cooking outside, I imagine your rig has an outlet outside your front door. It should be able to handle an electric skillet just fine. If it doesn't, then you need tear into it to see if there's a loose connection or worn out receptacle.
__________________
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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11-10-2021, 11:10 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 93
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about changing mode on HVAC units
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide
Don't know if you know this, but turning up the temp setpoint on your rooftop heatpumps while they are in airconditioning mode won't work.
You have to change the 'mode' on each unit to 'heatpump'. This is done on the thermostat.
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Thank You Wideglide - Yes I should have mentioned, when I do attempt to change the "mode" from cool to heat regardless of whether I am in zone 1 only (or) zones 1 and 2 both (meaning both units) the control/thermostat just skips right on past "heat" (will not allow me to select heat mode at all) And it does this even when I am plugged into 50 amps shore power (which should always allow) me to run both of my rooftop units (at once) I turn up thermostat to desired heat setting (like 80 degrees for example) and attempt to set controller to Heat mode, and no go.. as if the system does not see heat as available..) and my propane tank is full and valve is open.. I suspect bad control board perhaps ? but this topic might call for a new thread on here..
__________________
"Hook-Line-N-Blinker" Michigan and Florida 
1999 Mountain High Pinnacle model 3480 37 Ft. (F53)
16 Ft flatbed T/A car carrier trailer
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11-10-2021, 11:15 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 93
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about outlets on the genset
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudfrog
Yours probably has the transfer switch but if not, then you could always install a duplex receptacle right next to the genset fed 30 amp outlet that you plug your shore power cord into for genset usage.
As far as warm plugs/outlets, that is a warning that you need to keep an eye on. Our rig has 14 gauge romex run to the outlets and I realize the outlets are not of the best quality. Still, I have no trouble running the heater all night long on its 900 watt setting. I do run it at times on the 1500 setting and notice that the plug gets slightly warm but I keep an eye on it to make sure no problems develop. I don't leave it running on high un-attended.
Cooking outside, I imagine your rig has an outlet outside your front door. It should be able to handle an electric skillet just fine. If it doesn't, then you need tear into it to see if there's a loose connection or worn out receptacle.
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Thanks very much, mudfrog _ Great advice and much appreciated
__________________
"Hook-Line-N-Blinker" Michigan and Florida 
1999 Mountain High Pinnacle model 3480 37 Ft. (F53)
16 Ft flatbed T/A car carrier trailer
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11-14-2021, 10:25 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN
A converter simply converts 120VAC to 12VDC; an inverter does the opposite, it changes 12VDC to 120VAC. The built-in battery charger module is only that, a battery charger.
Please read this website for self-edification: The 12 volt side of Life, part 2.
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Special thanks to you, Ray,IN for that (tutorial) link RV/ 12 volt side of life, very informative indeed ! I saved it for future reference ,,Much appreciated !
__________________
"Hook-Line-N-Blinker" Michigan and Florida 
1999 Mountain High Pinnacle model 3480 37 Ft. (F53)
16 Ft flatbed T/A car carrier trailer
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11-14-2021, 10:47 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenThereB4
Thanks for the input, Slow Joe, My coach has two rooftop HVAC units on it, but when I call for heat (turn up thermostat) no heat is produced by either one.. Although the A/C has been blowing nice and cool when I used it this past summer (both A/C units producing well)
The "no heat" situation has been going on a couple years, but since the A/C is still working very well, this hasn't been much of an inconvenience.. The few times I needed a bit of heat, I was plugged into shore power so I used the cube type electric heater..
I make my annual autumn trip to FL. about this time of year, and I like to use a Walmart for overnight parking spot whenever I can.. The small electric heater is enough to keep us comfortable with outside temps relatively mild.
One of the things on my "RV to-do List" is to finally troubleshoot why my climate control produces no heat (although it does cool) I suspect perhaps a bad control board ? but that would probably be a new posting I should begin on here.. what ever it is has an effect on both of my rooftop units..
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This post prompts some questions. (Bold)
You apparently could get heat in the past.
1. What was the heat source, heat pump or furnace?
2. Could you select “heat” on the thermostat in the past?
3. How did you activate the furnace, assuming you have one?
Depending on your answers, it could be a thermostat issue.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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11-14-2021, 10:53 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,658
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Hi. I don't have the same system as yours but, when I change modes, heat to cool or the reverse. Once I change the mode, I have to shut down the heat pump and restart in the new mode. I didn't see mentioned about shutting down in your post or the replies. Just a thought.
__________________
Larry & Sheree & KD the CAT
2009 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30SFS Lewis County, Wa.
USN 1964-68, USS LEXINGTON CVS-16
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11-15-2021, 12:02 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 285
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This past weekend I (my wife) ran 2 electric heaters on 600W each. Both ran off of a single EU2000i Honda. Had no issues of any kind, other than increased gasoline usage.
Our furnace has yet to be fixed. The furnace motor failed. Waiting for a replacement to arrive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenThereB4
Hello Everyone- Would like to ask the more experienced RVers out there for opinions on operating a relatively small electric space heater (1500 watts max. it also has a setting at 1200 watts) I have an older class A on a Ford F-53 Chassis, the generator is an Onan 5500 watt. If I run the heater for about 6 or 7 hours (like during an overnight sleep stop) would that be too much of a load on (either) my coach electrical system or the generator ? Or both ? I realize that I would be unable to operate any other "high wattage" devices without shutting the heater down first (toaster or convection oven, for example) My fridge is generally in propane mode during any road trip, I believe the only electric load the fridge would draw is on the DC side (12 volt) If the 1500 (or 1200) watt heater is an excessive load, could I get by alright by using a somewhat smaller one heater ? I hope i am posting this in the proper category (general discussion) .. just heating the rear compartments in my RV (bedroom and bathroom would be enough, I believe.. Ambient out door temps probably no colder than high 30s or so.. Any helpful input or comments would be much appreciated, Thanks
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__________________
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2022 F150 Power Boost Supercrew, 6.5' Box, 4x4,
7.4 KW generator, 1645# Cargo Capacity.
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