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Old 07-22-2019, 05:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Lv2Roam2 View Post
Is it possible that the forward end of the receiver is open - allowing you to insert some 1X1 stock, after liberally spraying, and knock the hitch rearward?

Of course - we all want to know what finally works!! Thanks ...
Yes that was the first thing I checked, thinking I could insert the jack through the tube. It’s closed off.
Tomorrow I will put some heat on it. It seems like that and the 6tons of pressure should get it to move
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:11 PM   #16
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Torch and a three pound sledge. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:38 PM   #17
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Hitch

You need a oxy /acy torch and a rose bud tip. Heat it up good and add lots of pen oil and heat it again.Make it look like you are having a BBQ.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:51 PM   #18
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Yes that was the first thing I checked, thinking I could insert the jack through the tube. It’s closed off.
Tomorrow I will put some heat on it. It seems like that and the 6tons of pressure should get it to move
Take a 1.5 or 2 inch holesaw bit and cut the closed end open. THen you can stick a 1 inch peice of square steel down tin the hole and drive out in the correct direction.
This will also help to get penetrating oil in where it is needed.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:10 PM   #19
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Buy a new hitch. By using heat and quenching you are risking fatigue, cracking and failure down the road because you are changing the properties of the steel. It is a bad idea and as others have mentioned, hitches are not that expensive. Your time, safety and the safety of others is worth more than the cost to replace it.
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:48 PM   #20
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You have to apply heat with a torch and a good bit of heat


Gotta use an Acetylene/oxygen torch(rent a small one) on both sides and bottom. The PB blaster that has soaked into the rust will make a lot of smoke at first.

After you have heated the hitch, drive the ball-mount in until it moves, then drive it out.
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:36 AM   #21
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Torch and a three pound sledge. Good luck.

[Mod Edit] If the OP was close, after he has but this much work in it, I would bring out the 40lb
Cooling with water is not a good idea. But if you wet the top of ball mount, then heat low on sides, the heat will draw oil into the rust. As it drys, add oil...
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:16 AM   #22
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You can not get enough heat on that tube without damaging the surrounding wiring and body work!!!!!!!!!
Do not tie it to something and try to jerk it off. You will certainly break something or bend the frame.

Unbolt it or cut it off the frame of the rig. Then decide what to do with it. Heat it and beat it. Or replace it.

Find a buddy with a 30 ton shop press. He will be able to get it out for you.
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:55 PM   #23
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If you look at the picture, there is a towbar inserted into the hitch - maybe he is trying to save it? or change to a different one?
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Old 07-23-2019, 10:57 PM   #24
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I used a 15 ton chain host tied to a tree. One important thing was to keep it level and straight.

Mike
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Old 07-24-2019, 09:59 AM   #25
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You can not get enough heat on that tube without damaging the surrounding wiring and body work!!!!!!!!!
Do not tie it to something and try to jerk it off. You will certainly break something or bend the frame.

Unbolt it or cut it off the frame of the rig. Then decide what to do with it. Heat it and beat it. Or replace it.

Find a buddy with a 30 ton shop press. He will be able to get it out for you.
I can heat it without damage to anything else, I've done it several times on pickups. You must choose your torch gas volumes carefully, use a shield to protect wiring and paint. I have a small asbestos blanket and gloves given me by an uncle-who was a union pipefitter for over 40 years. He taught me to use an oxy/acetylene torch.
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:05 AM   #26
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I can heat it without damage to anything else, I've done it several times on pickups. You must choose your torch gas volumes carefully, use a shield to protect wiring and paint. I have a small asbestos blanket and gloves given me by an uncle-who was a union pipefitter for over 40 years. He taught me to use an oxy/acetylene torch.
The OP must determine if he is skilled enough with a torch and set up to not damage anything. I usually default to the lower end of a skill set when describing a repair. Sure it can be done but is it easier or better for a moderate skilled person to just remove the hitch from the rig and use the full access to the piece. Many times I will do something the easier way even though it could be done somehow else. Like tearing down engines in frame. I wont do that anymore. I am too beat up from years of wrenching. I cant bend over that long or kneel that long anymore. I just prefer to pull it and work on a bench or stand.
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Old 07-26-2019, 03:27 AM   #27
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If you look at the picture, there is a towbar inserted into the hitch - maybe he is trying to save it? or change to a different one?
If the hitch has been in place so long it has rusted to the point that it won't move, I'm not sure I would trust the tow bar without a full inspection and rebuild.
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Old 07-26-2019, 05:12 PM   #28
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I have removed several of these hitches using an air powered impact tool. I have a blunt end bit which I place on the slide in hitch and rattle the sides and top and bottom with. This will loosen the rust enough to force the hitch out of the receiver in most cases. If It doesn't I heat the hitch receiver tube and try again.
I have had a couple which were permanently bonded together. I replaced the hitch and the receiver. I never felt justified in adding up hours of labor costs to the point the customer could buy all new parts and have them installed.
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