Community Forums

Dyno Bill · 11-24-2006, 06:30 PM

I'm thinking of putting up a building big enough for my motor home, a couple of cars and a bunch of miscellaneous junk. I'm thinking of going 40' long, 24 to 30 wide, with a 14 ft door. I live in the inland San Diego county area.

Can anyone reccomend a buiding manufacturer or have any other advice?

Dyno Bill · 11-24-2006, 06:30 PM

I'm thinking of putting up a building big enough for my motor home, a couple of cars and a bunch of miscellaneous junk. I'm thinking of going 40' long, 24 to 30 wide, with a 14 ft door. I live in the inland San Diego county area.

Can anyone reccomend a buiding manufacturer or have any other advice?

RV Wizard · 11-25-2006, 12:16 AM

Bill, I would recommend going with at least part of the building large enough to put in a 40' coach. Even if you do not buy on that large the next owner may and it will have a lot of value. My dad had to remodel his RV/Boat garage because his Country Coach would not fit. Also be sure to use 14' x 12' door. Good luck and keep us posted as to how the project goes.

Oemtech · 11-25-2006, 02:50 AM

I put up a 40x75 with the ability to put in an apt, shop and storage. I have water, electricity, sewer, 14x14 door in the end wall, 10x16 in the side wall and 2 service doors. I store my RV and 3 cars with ease. If you use a roll up door you will need 2' above the door.. IE - 16' wall. I went with a 12' wall and 3x12 pitch roof. This allowed me to install a 14x14 door using a "low overhead" system.

You can view the construction over in the photo section.

Dyno Bill · 11-25-2006, 10:56 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV Wizard:
Bill, I would recommend going with at least part of the building large enough to put in a 40' coach. Even if you do not buy on that large the next owner may and it will have a lot of value. My dad had to remodel his RV/Boat garage because his Country Coach would not fit. Also be sure to use 14' x 12' door. Good luck and keep us posted as to how the project goes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How long of a building do I need for a 40' coach?? Just a few more feet my be doable. I'm still in the pricing stage, concrete and materials have really gone nuts lately!!

Dyno Bill · 11-25-2006, 10:23 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
I put up a 40x75 with the ability to put in an apt, shop and storage. I have water, electricity, sewer, 14x14 door in the end wall, 10x16 in the side wall and 2 service doors. I store my RV and 3 cars with ease. If you use a roll up door you will need 2' above the door.. IE - 16' wall. I went with a 12' wall and 3x12 pitch roof. This allowed me to install a 14x14 door using a "low overhead" system.

You can view the construction over in the photo section. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's a real nice building, I like the tall door in the lower profile building. Who is the manufacturer? What is the open beam (no truss) style called?

Thanks, Bill

GStream40 · 11-26-2006, 04:22 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by YJ Bill:
How long of a building do I need for a 40' coach?? Just a few more feet my be doable. I'm still in the pricing stage, concrete and materials have really gone nuts lately!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Our 40' coach is actually almost 41' long, but I would want room to walk around it so 45' building would be the least amount of length I would make it.

Ron

Oemtech · 11-26-2006, 07:16 AM

Bill,

It is made by Armour Steel and was put up by a neighbor that lives about 1/2 mile down the road from me. He is a full time Fireman and runs a Welding and Fabrication business on the side.

As for the design.. They use "I" beam steel for the main structure, "C" purlens for the corners and "Z" purlens for the walls. Be aware that you will lose 8" on each wall do to the Z purlens.

Part of the reason I went with a 12' wall and a 3x12 pitch was to save $$$. A 16' wall with a 1x12 or 2x12 pitch was about $5k more. This was do to the main steel beams, C's, Z's and sheeting. Labor was also higher.

OBTW - I am out about 1/4" off square in the building.

peter griffin · 11-26-2006, 07:31 AM

what is the estimated life span of these metal buildings?

thanks

Oemtech · 11-26-2006, 05:22 PM

If built correctly, with good foundation and a little maintenance they should last at least 25 years or more. The paint is guaranteed for 25 years.

My foundation is built with beams around the perimiter of the building and 2 beams at 25'/50'. The beams have #4 rerod hoops about every 16". The floor has #4 rerod 16" on center front to back/side to side and 6" of concrete.

There is "tin lip" that runs around the outside of the building that allows the sheeting to sit about 1 1/2" below the surface of the foundation. This keeps water out of the building. The big doors also are recessed about the same to keep water from running in under the doors.

I have a floor drain so I can wash cars and the RV inside if want to.

Jeff_in_The_Dalles · 11-28-2006, 06:13 AM

I have been contemplating putting a large metal building on my lot... Something in the 45'x26' range, tall enough to clear a 14' high rig on either side, with doors on both ends.

Could I be so nosey as to inquire roughly what a building in this range would go for?

Oemtech · 11-28-2006, 08:04 AM

I built this building in the summer of 05 and allocated $60k. With some bargains on labor, the over head doors, add ons of blacktop and electrical I came in on budget.

The neighbor gave me a break on the erection cost, another neighbor gave me a deal on the doors/installation and last but not least I swapped an above ground pool and $$$ for the concrete work. I did all the electrical.

Concrete was $65 a yard
rebar was $4 a 20' stick
12/2 wire was $38 a roll

Dsouthw524 · 12-11-2006, 06:10 AM

You will be suprised how little the increase in cost will be if you increase the size of the building. We used Miracle Truss for ours and have been very satisfied. Wont bother you with some of the details as ours is in a different climate. I do recomend that you look at this company as the beams are able to be put up with the use of a tractor with a bucket and it also allows for the open structure. They have been advertising in the Good Sam magazine offering big discounts at this time of the year. They were very helpful in making Blue prints for our specific variation on their standard design. Think about putting in skylights and planty of power as well as extra room for the stuff we all accumulate.

JB's Place · 12-18-2006, 03:55 AM

For what its worth, I went with a 40x50 metal building with 16' walls. I looked at a lot of buildings and they all had one thing in common.....a lot of wasted space up above. My 16' walls allowed me to build a 700 sq ft loft with 7' to 9' head room, great for storage or possible apartment. We have a 12x14 office, 10x18 bath/mechanical room and plenty of room for work benches, the MH with slides out, two cars and the other toys....it works for us.