RV Water Pressure

[Toopalms]

I know the water pressure should be between 40-60 psi. My regulator shows @ 60 psi when NOT using any water. When using water drops to @42. My question is can I raise the pressure when not using so that I have greater pressure when I am using the water?

[OMMM4747]

At 60 psi, you're seeing static pressure. At 42 psi, you're seeing dynamic pressure. Whether static or fluid, your plumbing system can only handle the maximum pressure (probably 65 psi) so you should not increase the static pressure above 60 psi (we set our to 50-55). If you want more dynamic pressure, have water in your freshwater tank and use your water pump. We do this for showering.

Good luck

[DutchmenSport]

Actually, the best way to determine the absolute "Max" on your camper's plumbing is to locate the on-board water pump for your fresh water tank and look at the label on it. It will have the PSI on that pump. THAT is the MAX you ever want your pressure to be. Anything higher is a risk waiting to happen.

Most water pumps in RV's is set at 55 psi.

If you want "steady" water pressure, then use your on-board water pump and fill your fresh water tank. You will always have steady pressure.

I never attach the garden hose and leave it on, unless ONLY filling my fresh water tank for those 2 reasons! (One)... so overpressure of the water system will never happen. (Two) ... for steady pressure, no matter where the "original" water came from, at the camp site, at home, or a common spigot for multiple users. My garden hose is never attached and in use unless filling the tank. Yes, that means filling the tank every few days, and I'd rather do that have inconsistent pressure, and the risk of over pressure. Besides, with the water pump active all the time, (IF) a water leak, or a water drip occurs, it takes only 3 ounces of water for the water pump to kick on. When the water pump kicks on and no water is running, I know immediately .... well .... the toilet valve did not shut all the way, ... or ... my water pressure releaf valve popped because the water heater got too hot ... or I simply did not get a faucet closed completely. Or .... I actually sprung a leak somewhere .... I know immediately something is running water. Where as if I'm connected to the garden hose, hundreds of gallons of water could flow through the trailer before I realize something is leaking water!

That MY suggestion!

[wildtoad]

Sometimes I run the pump while also being hooked to outside water. I would do it more often but the pump is incredibly loud.

[followingsea]

Originally Posted by Toopalms

I know the water pressure should be between 40-60 psi. My regulator shows @ 60 psi when NOT using any water. When using water drops to @42. My question is can I raise the pressure when not using so that I have greater pressure when I am using the water?

I do not worry about pressure, it is what it is. I do not use a pressure regulator.

What I worry about is a small leak damaging my RV. For that reason most of the time I am running on the pump. If the pump cycles on and off I go looking for the leak. Most often the cause was the toilet valve not closing completely.

If a campground has low pressure, I use the pump to take a shower.

[US1]

I have no concern setting mine at 65 static, but I have mine set at 45 for the added price of mind.
You will get a drop in flow thru the regulator thus the drop n press. I think you’d need a high quality regulator that could maintain the set pressure w/o the press drop as long as the parks water could handle it. The Valera’s and Measuremans aren’t up to par to maintain the set press IMO. I have at times connected my regular and opened it full open to see what the park pressure is, then if under 65, I’ll remove the regulator altogether so I dont have a drop n flow.

[Psp6158]

Originally Posted by wildtoad

Sometimes I run the pump while also being hooked to outside water. I would do it more often but the pump is incredibly loud.

I went from a camper to a coach, being on that forum I see having the water pump on almost common

[OMMM4747]

Note that the pump uses water from the fresh water tank only, it does not supplant the city water hookup. It's one or the other but there is no need to disconnect from the camp water. We stay connected w/the regulator set 50-55.

Good luck

[Cumminsfan]

I just use one of those cheap preset PSI regulators. I used to use an adjustable one until an unexpected freeze one night ruined the meter.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by wildtoad

Sometimes I run the pump while also being hooked to outside water. I would do it more often but the pump is incredibly loud.

The pump will only run IF......IF supply pressure (system) is low enough to trigger pump pressure switch
When connected to city water and pump is running then city water flow has stopped due to Inlet check valve closing

It's one or the other providing pressure/Flow

[followingsea]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

The pump will only run IF......IF supply pressure (system) is low enough to trigger pump pressure switch
When connected to city water and pump is running then city water flow has stopped due to Inlet check valve closing

It's one or the other providing pressure/Flow

I can't believe that a navy guy said that. True in a perfect world but in the real world all valves leak.

Most of the time it is not an issue. I have pumped my fresh water to the campground and have my freshwater tank fill slowly from city water. Does not happen very often but sometimes check valves do not seat.

for this reason I do not leave the valve from city water open or leave the pump on when gone from the MH.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by followingsea

I can't believe that a navy guy said that. True in a perfect world but in the real world all valves leak.

Most of the time it is not an issue. I have pumped my fresh water to the campground and have my freshwater tank fill slowly from city water. Does not happen very often but sometimes check valves do not seat.

for this reason I do not leave the valve from city water open or leave the pump on when gone from the MH.

City Water Inlet check valve is spring assist closed..... 1# pressure difference and it closes stopping city water to flow into the RV.
Pumping fresh water tank into the CG supply system ....hard to do when system is pressurized...even slightly less the pump discharge pressure.
City water leaking pass the pump internal check valve and filling the fresh water tank........easily done---tank is not pressurize

[twinboat]

The fix is to add a pump in behind city inlet and boost the parks water. If the parks system is real bad, you may draw air in the backflow preventer on the faucet but you shouldn't need that kind of flow.

[followingsea]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

....
Pumping fresh water tank into the CG supply system ....hard to do when system is pressurized...even slightly less the pump discharge pressure.
.....

I investigated low pressure since my RV was the only one in the campground. A maintenance guy was using a hose to wash down something. We had to change the filters at the pump.

Based on my experience with using their shower, taking a shower on there dime should be avoided when anyone else is around.