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Old 01-01-2018, 07:34 PM   #15
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I always just use air, but lots and lots of it. Be very careful to leave taps open until no more water comes out one at a time.
As far as the pump, I run it dry by opening the valve for putting antifreeze in. Just run it for a minute or 2. Then it's dry, so nothing to damage it by freezing.
Ice maker and washing machine get run for a short time with just 40 psi air.
Also remove all filters and don't forget the outside shower.
Happy Glamping.
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Old 01-01-2018, 08:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evofxdwg View Post
Wow! ThePowells you have more energy than me! I had an oil filled electric heater in ours last winter but the central is broke in the house so we are using it inside. I have a garage with a highbay i built a year before we bought the motorhome but put a car lift in the way and the RV mirrors would have to be removed due to door width...dohhhh!

Keymastr i got the walmart Stabil brand accidentally before reading your post but thanks.

Just finished sucking in a gallon thru the pump and running the shower head to fill the trap. Im good to go till spring.

Some good ideas in here. Thanks again all.

Geez, I thought I was being lazy
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Old 01-01-2018, 08:31 PM   #17
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This is my winterization procedure. I winterize and de-winterize several times in the cold season for our trips. There are details most people miss. I realize some folks have different procedures that have work well for them over the last 10,000 years and that's wonderful, this is mine.

Winterization Procedure for 2007 Excel 5th Wheeler

These procedures tailored to my RV, adjust as required for other applications.

1. Drain fresh water, black and gray water tanks
2. Darin water heater, open both bottom drain and high pressure relief valve
3. Open low level water drains, leave open for now
4. Set bypass valves on water heater
5. Set the bypass valves on the whole house water connection
6. Drain the whole house water filter
7. Use a hand or electric pump to force antifreeze through the city water connection until it comes out the cold low level drain
8. Close both low level drains
9. Use hand or electric pump to force antifreeze through the black water sprayer system
10. Close valve between the fresh water tank and the pump, don’t want AF in the fresh water tank
11. Open the siphon valve
12. Dump 2 – 3 gallons of antifreeze into larger bucket, makes the process simpler
13. Place the siphon hose in the antifreeze
14. Start the pump
15. Starting at the nearest facet, open hot and cold until a good pink stream is observed
16. Work through all facets and valves
17. Pour about pint plus of antifreeze into each drain trap, sinks, shower, etc.

Note:
I no longer bother with blowing air through the system. I just rely on total replacement of the water by antifreeze. It gets into all of the low places. Use three to four gallons, cheap insurance to me.

I have remote water pump switches located near the siphon hose and a third switch in the wet bay. These are simple SPST switches. All wired with 10 ga. wire for low voltage loss.

I have a residential Watts water pressure regulator just inboard of the city water connection that needs to be winterized.

To pump antifreeze through the city intake and the black water tank sprayer I use a second RV water pump I carry to transfer water from a portable water bladder into my fresh water tank. This also winterizes this pump.

Remember outside shower, ice-makers, washing machines, dishwashers, external pressure regulators in some cases, etc. Each of these devices may have different procedures
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:07 AM   #18
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I will answer the question.. I spent like 3 winters in Michigan.
First winter I used Pink stuff.. NEVER AGAIN Man what a job getting rid of it come spring.

Next year I hooked up ye old blow hard (Air compressor) and blew out the lines.. I set the regulator to 50 PSI, the tank holds about six gallons on my 150 PSI compressor, then I blew the lines out.. Like 10 times, all valves open... Just blow then let the compressor recover and blow again and again, and again. 5-10 blows.

No problems at all.

Oh, I did use Pink in drains and traps and toilets.. But flushing those.. Not a problem .
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:26 AM   #19
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Problem with just blowing air into the city water inlet is it leaves the pump and strainer and associated lines full of water unless you run the pump for several minutes
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:08 PM   #20
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The 97 Beaver that I just bought said it is best to use air in the manual. That is what I did, I hope I didn't screw up~! Anyway we are in a cold spell right now that has been as low as -15 for over a week, so if there is water, I have a problem..
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Old 01-03-2018, 05:19 PM   #21
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I see only a few northern posters....they have the answer, not BETTER GET IT ALL.. jeez you would have to have the cheapest plastic line to break with only small amount in low point. traps should be done....heck here it has been wayyyy below zero every winter, just common sense and you got it guy.. don't need to blow 20 times or anything,, I unhook washer lines before blow n ice maker
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