Community Forums

FIRE UP · 11-30-2016, 02:18 PM

Gang,
Our home is built with an RV garage attached and, it's really nice to have it like that. It's got 50A inside too, right next to where the shore plug emerges from the coach. But, for reasons that only the builder knows, the dump for the RV was placed on the outside of the garage, with and outside 50A RV service, directly opposite the 50A service in the inside.

When we come home from a trip, we can pull the coach in alongside the RV garage and, right up to the outside dump and, take care of business. But, while it's not the end of the world in doing the process like that, it's just a longer process than we'd like to do, at the end of a long days drive and returning home.

Besides, if I don't feel like dumping immediately after getting home, I take care of it either the next day or the day after but, since the coach is leveled with the Jacks sitting on blocks (for protection of the epoxied floor), I now have to link two sewer hoses together, route them through a near by regular door and make a u-turn with the hose and run it down to the dump. When it's done that way, I have to use almost all 25' of sewer hose. If I were to create an access "tunnel" through the garage wall, the run for the hose would be about 6'-8' long, total. Waaaaaay better.

So, I'm thinking about creating an access door, somewhat like a "doggy door", right through the lower part of the garage wall, to run that sewer hose through, and right into the dump.

Now, I just spent about an hour at Home Depot and, another hour at Lowes, cruising all the plumping departments, doggy door supplies, roofing venting stuff, washer/dryer venting items, large pipe, i.e. 6" PVC pipe and more. I found a couple of flanged, 6" A/C duct items that, may, or may not do the trick. Due to the length of each piece, I might have to trim a bit of length off of each one, so that when the flange butts up against the drywall on the inside and, butts up against the stucco on the outside, the two cut ends, are just touching.

Then, some aluminum A/C tape and, to me, it's done. Then, I'd have to create some sore of little, easily removable doors, for each end.

So, have any of you done such a thing? If so, what, may I ask, was your process and how and what equipment did you actually use for this little MacGuyver project? Thanks way in advance.
Scott

96 Wideglide · 11-30-2016, 02:31 PM

What you need is a Sani-con

!

l1v3fr33ord1 · 11-30-2016, 03:01 PM

Scott-

I made a pass-through for a garden hose from two deck plates and a piece of PVC pipe. Larger deck plates would accommodate a sewer hose end, I suppose. The pass-through doubles as ventilation, if needed.

Chuck_Hammer · 11-30-2016, 06:30 PM

remember when gas stations overhead doors had a port with a swinging plate.. for flexible rubber exhaust hose... so car engine can RUN inside station...

still available or make one. for your stinky hose.

install in wall or ?

MtCamper · 11-30-2016, 07:49 PM

I think I would just use a short piece of 4" PVC with a threaded cap at both ends. If you place the pipe where it just contacts your sill plate and a stud, you could easily attach the pipe by putting in a couple of screws. Cut your hole with a 4 1/8" hole saw and caulk.

Dutch Star Don · 11-30-2016, 08:15 PM

My first thought is what "Mt Camper" suggested. Using 4" threaded cap end on both sides of the wall, would lock in the center 4" piece of pvc pipe. Drill the hole, cut the pvc to the proper length and then push/glue the caps on both sides, locking it into the wall. A silicone seal around both sides should keep it from spinning when removing the cap.

You could also modify an electric breaker box. Find one just big enough to drill a 3'5" to 4" hole in the back of the box, cut a hole through the wall and mount the box on the outside. You would simply lift the electrical box lid to expose the hole. You can finish the inside with a flange to keep it nice looking.

MGrawe · 11-30-2016, 10:58 PM

Concur with the good advice in the above posts. A permanent or semi permanent pipe running from the dump through the wall finished nicely for appearance. Place a four prong sewer hose connector on the inside with a removable cap for when it is not in use. Should be a simple mod, eaee the dump process and still look nice with a little finishing.

FIRE UP · 12-01-2016, 09:37 PM

Well,
After considering all the advisory concepts and ideas, I came up with plan B. I stopped by a local Wholesale Specialty Hardware store for building supplies told them what my situation was and what I might have been looking for. The man behind the counter disappeared for a minute then, came out with what you see in the pictures. It's called an "Access Door". They come in the smallest size, an 8" like what you see in the pics or, all the way up to 24"x 24".

8" ones are just a tad big for this particular project but, all other aspects of them fit the bill nicely. They're ultra flush to both the inside drywall and, the outside stucco. I got out my trusty "stud finder" (no, I was not looking in mirror) and, found both a stud and, the sill plate that sat on top of the stem wall. I probed through the drywall with a tiny drill to confirm my findings.

I was right on. So, I cut the drywall and removed it. I temp fitted one of the new Access doors and it was great. Then I cut the outside wall. A temp fit with the outside Access Door revealed a great fit. Since I was up against one stud and, had the sill plate as the bottom, I had to stub in a small section of 2" x 6" for the other wall. I glued and screwed it into place.

So, the hard work was done. I got out some of my left over "Woven Vinyl Flooring" that I recently re-surfaced the floor of our boat with and lined the whole inside with it. It turned out great. The access doors were internally secured with screws so nothing shows on the outside. All done!!! See what you guys think, just in case any of you or someone you know, might be thinking of something like this.
Scott