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05-21-2017, 11:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 112
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Still a problem with onboard water system, pump doesn't pump
Ongoing problem that I have been trying to solve for 10 days. Pumping from fresh water tank was OK one day, next day pump ran but no water moving. Filled tank to be sure plenty of water.Disconnected pump inlet and outlet tubing and put inlet tube into container of water which it promptly pumped dry, reconnected lines. Checked water fill valve position, it is on normal flow.Looked for screens or filter that could be stopped up. Pump runs, does not cut off. Still does not pump from tank. Does the line from the the city water inlet to fill the tank also serve as the return line when the valve is reset to "normal flow" position or is there another line that could have a check -valve, stopped up screen or ? Cannot see the tank and lines without dropping coroplast belly. Could there be a bad pressure sensor or leaking diaphragm in pump that could cause this problem? Could pump be strong enough to pump from smaller container but not enough to pump further from the tank? Tank vent not stopped up as water was splashing from vent while driving. Tried to prime by running city water while pump on, no luck. What else is there to check?
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05-22-2017, 04:18 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 5,228
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If you have access to an air compressor I think I might disconnect the incoming to the pump (on mine it comes from the fresh tank through a shutoff valve used to winterize the system) and blow that line out. Maybe something is in your tank that somehow is blocking the water supply line?
__________________
Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
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05-22-2017, 08:59 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,460
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Since you disconnected the pump inlet and outlet, and the pump worked, then the next thing is to try one, then the other, to narrow it down. Disconnect just the outlet. If the pump pumps water from your tank, then the pump works. Now reconnect the outlet, and disconnect just the inlet, and run it into a bucket of water, while leaving the outlet connected to the camper lines. It should produce water at your faucets. If not, then your lines are plugged somewhere. Perhaps a kinked line?
__________________
You don't stop playing because you grow old...You grow old because you stop playing!
2004 Itasca M30W
'20 Can Am X3 X RS Turbo RR, '85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310
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05-22-2017, 10:22 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,230
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Also possible that when they drilled the tank to insert hose fitting, the spoils were left in tank and has become a part time line plug....
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05-22-2017, 11:03 AM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,096
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Since the pump works from another source, it would seem the problem is between the pump and the tank. A crack in that line lets the pump suck air instead of water. And a clog, of course, blocks any water flow into the pump.
Some systems have an additional diverter valve between pump and tank to allow a connection to a jug of antifreeze. If that is switched to the external source position instead of the tank, you get no water.
The pressure switch is in the pump itself (on the outlet side). Since your pump works with an alternate source, its not the pressure switch. The switch won't shut off unless connected to a closed system so that pressure can build up.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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05-22-2017, 11:32 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 112
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Water problem
Thanks for your suggestions. This is on a 2014 Montana High Country. Are there 2 separate lines to the fresh water tank, one for filling from the convenience center city water fill through the "normal flow or tank fill positions valve" and another for pumping water from the tank back for distribution or does one line serve both ways depending on the valve position? This would help me in trying to solve where the problem is as the tank fills readily but no water flows the other direction. If there is only one line that serves both ways then that line does not seem to be the problem here unless there was some kind of a check valve that was malfunctioning.I am not at the 5r now and I cannot recall if there is a winterizing valve that could have been inadvertantly moved. Thanks again for your help.
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05-22-2017, 12:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 5,228
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You should have a line to fill from city water and I think that lands on the top of the tank. There is another line from the tank, maybe through a winterizing valve, and to the pump - this line is from the side/bottom of the tank. Then there should be at least one more and that is to drain the tank, so it has a valve on it.
__________________
Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
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05-22-2017, 01:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,460
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Your water lines (all of the faucets, shower, toilet) are a pressurized system, while the tank is static (non-pressurized). The lines can be pressurized by the pump (drawing water from the bottom of the tank), or from the city water hookup (with the valve in "normal" position, not "tank fill" position). When you move that valve to the "tank fill" position, then instead of pressurizing the lines, the city water is directed into the tank, at the top, just as RKins said. So no, it is not a "2-way" line.
The "winterizing valve" is a good possibility. However, another possibility is that you are trying to use your pump with the City valve turned to "tank fill". That will simply create a circular path, with the pump running, drawing water from the bottom of the tank, pumping it into the lines and then back to the top of the tank. Make sure your winterizing valve is off, and your city fill valve is off (normal).
__________________
You don't stop playing because you grow old...You grow old because you stop playing!
2004 Itasca M30W
'20 Can Am X3 X RS Turbo RR, '85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310
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05-22-2017, 02:00 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 5,139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tooth Doc
Thanks for your suggestions. This is on a 2014 Montana High Country. Are there 2 separate lines to the fresh water tank, one for filling from the convenience center city water fill through the "normal flow or tank fill positions valve" and another for pumping water from the tank back for distribution or does one line serve both ways depending on the valve position? This would help me in trying to solve where the problem is as the tank fills readily but no water flows the other direction. If there is only one line that serves both ways then that line does not seem to be the problem here unless there was some kind of a check valve that was malfunctioning.I am not at the 5r now and I cannot recall if there is a winterizing valve that could have been inadvertantly moved. Thanks again for your help.
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In most cases. "Normal Flow" would route water from the city inlet to RV water system. In "Tank Fill" water would route form city inlet to water tank. Weather or not the pump distributes water or the city inlet distributes water is determined by which source has more pressure.
Leaving the "normal flow/tank fill" valve in the tank fill position will allow the pump to suck air thru the city inlet if there is no pressurized hose connected to the city inlet.
Yours may vary.
Your symptoms sound like a "sucking air" problem and not a clogged line.
A pic of your wet bay panel would be worth several thousand words and numerous posts.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2023 Grand Design 2600RB, 2013 Nissan Platinum Armada tow vehicle, Titusville, FL when not on the road
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05-23-2017, 11:05 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hohenwald48
Leaving the "normal flow/tank fill" valve in the tank fill position will allow the pump to suck air thru the city inlet if there is no pressurized hose connected to the city inlet.
Yours may vary.
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The city fill line would go to the top of the tank, the pump draws from the bottom; there is no way for the pump to suck air from the city fill line.
__________________
You don't stop playing because you grow old...You grow old because you stop playing!
2004 Itasca M30W
'20 Can Am X3 X RS Turbo RR, '85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310
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05-23-2017, 07:41 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 5,139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4van
The city fill line would go to the top of the tank, the pump draws from the bottom; there is no way for the pump to suck air from the city fill line.
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Drive yourself up to Nashville and I'll demonstrate it for you. Yours may vary but the city fill on mine goes to the bottom of the tank and is in fact a "T" fitting in the line on the suction side of the pump.
Leave the selector valve in "city water" position and don't connect a host to the inlet and the pump will suck air all day long.
Not sure you think it's necessary for a city fill line to go to the top of the water tank. Heck, a gravity fill doesn't even have to go to the top of the water tank.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2023 Grand Design 2600RB, 2013 Nissan Platinum Armada tow vehicle, Titusville, FL when not on the road
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05-23-2017, 09:05 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hohenwald48
Drive yourself up to Nashville and I'll demonstrate it for you. Yours may vary but the city fill on mine goes to the bottom of the tank and is in fact a "T" fitting in the line on the suction side of the pump.
Leave the selector valve in "city water" position and don't connect a host to the inlet and the pump will suck air all day long.
Not sure you think it's necessary for a city fill line to go to the top of the water tank. Heck, a gravity fill doesn't even have to go to the top of the water tank.
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I stand corrected; it's just that I've never seen one plumbed that way. Interesting.
__________________
You don't stop playing because you grow old...You grow old because you stop playing!
2004 Itasca M30W
'20 Can Am X3 X RS Turbo RR, '85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310
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05-25-2017, 10:28 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,500
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Maybe I missed something,,, but how about turning your pump ON with a faucet open (to let air purge) and then move your "Fill/City" valve from one posistion to the other ? Our Cougar (2016) takes a few minutes to get all the air out of the system. Not so much on City water. It will run a Long time (maybe forever) if when running the Pump you don't open a faucet to purge air from the system....
Monkey
__________________
Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
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