Surge Protection Progressive vs SurgeGuard

[Jeffcarp]

I looked at those specs and that brand does list a clamping voltage of 300V. That's good that they list that. It's more meaningful than ratings in Joules. TBD UL 1449 means "to be determined" in my opinion, which means it hasn't been UL tested. Nothing wrong with taking the manufacturer's word on it if you trust them. Just know it hasn't been 3rd party verified.

300V will still fry electronics. That's really my point. Electronics expect 120V +/- 10% so 108V to 132V. Whether any piece of electronics will survive 300V or not depends on the construction of the item (and some luck).

I just wanted people to understand that these devices are intended to prevent catastrophic damage like your coach exploding. They aren't meant to protect from having to buy a new TV.

That's why the only ones worth buying in my opinion are the ones with under and over voltage protection so you do have some more protection closer to the 108V and 132V limits rather than just protection at the clamping voltage.

[JohnH12]

Thanks Jalan. All good info. I also have individual surge suppressors that the electronics are all plugged into. My main concern is the coach itself.

[TechWriter]

Originally Posted by JohnH12

Camping World routinely has the SurgeGuard on sale for a bit over $100.

That $100 "SurgeGuard" is nothing more than a bunch of electric fault LED indicators that show you what's wrong, but do nothing to "fix" the problem -- like preventing your RV from connecting to a problem pedestal.

Remember that "SurgeGuard" is a registered tradmark of TRCI. So just because SurgeGuard is in the product name doesn't necessarily mean it's anything special.

With TRCI SurgeGuard products you have to check out the model number -- the $100ish 44260/44270/44280/44290 are described as "entry level surge protection". I'll say. All of these models just indicate that there's a problem, but do nothing about it.

For real electrical fault protection, get the 34830/34850 (portable) or 55530/55550 (hard wired) or 41300/40350 transfer switch surge protector.

[Jeffcarp]

That's not accurate that the entry level products do nothing but indicate. They absolutely do provide active surge protection with a clamping voltage let through to the load side.

[TechWriter]

Originally Posted by Jalan

That's not accurate that the entry level products do nothing but indicate. They absolutely do provide active surge protection with a clamping voltage let through to the load side.

Yes, they do offer some surge protection, but nothing for electrical faults.

[deltam]

We bought a EMS 50 portable but are still packing for first trip. Hypothetically, what do you do if in a campground and the thing shuts off all you power? Is there some standard way to deal with campgrounds?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by deltam

We bought a EMS 50 portable but are still packing for first trip. Hypothetically, what do you do if in a campground and the thing shuts off all you power? Is there some standard way to deal with campgrounds?

It should turn itself back on when it senses acceptable voltage. It reads high and low voltage. You'll have to check the owners manual to see what that voltage is.

[weredoingit]

Am I missing something here?
Progressive Industries SSP-30X

This is advertised as a surge protector. But it clearly isn't is it?

[deltam]

Originally Posted by cavie

It should turn itself back on when it senses acceptable voltage. It reads high and low voltage. You'll have to check the owners manual to see what that voltage is.

My question was more along the lines of what to do if your campsite repeatedly caused the EMS to shut off your power. Can this device be used as evidence to get a refund or at least move to another site? Does it record any data?

My manual says minimum of 104.5 volts which seems pretty forgiving.

[vincee]

deltam, I've had that happen to me at least twice using the portable Progressive Industries 50 amp model. Once at Yankee Springs state part in Michigan where they let everything go. I never saw so many extension cords in my life. Temps were in the low to mid 90's and my power kept shutting down, I wasn't running my AC, on a 60 watt light bulb. After a while I went and complained. The park sent a couple of Rangers over to look at my pedestal. The first thing they asked is what happens when I plug my shore power cord directly into the pedestal? I told them I'm not nuts and I trust PI50 more than their ped. They changed out the breakers in the box. Both were old and beat looking. Problem solved. Had a similar situation at a CG on Cape Cod. Fast service from the campground traced the problem, low voltage at 100V, back to the main power panel which was brand new and discovered a loose breaker on the line to my site. Don't leave home with out some kind of protection. For the electronics I'm talking about, LOL!

[mrgrayaz]

Originally Posted by deltam

My question was more along the lines of what to do if your campsite repeatedly caused the EMS to shut off your power. Can this device be used as evidence to get a refund or at least move to another site? Does it record any data?

My manual says minimum of 104.5 volts which seems pretty forgiving.

You tell the camp host their power is crap and they need to fix it.

Last month I was at a site with a bad breaker on the pedistle - they sent an electrician who didn't believe me until I literally demonstrated the voltage drop by turning everything on and showing them the progressive output.

They finally gave me an extension cord to the neighbors site (lol!) and blocked that site off for two weeks (they weren't full). I then proceeded to prove the point (again with the Electrician watching the progressive read out) by pulling 96 amps and the voltage being fine.

Sometimes they can be a little stubborn, but...in the end, I've always gotten it resolved. The fact the campground had a spare 50 amp extension cord laying around told me this wasn't their first issue.....