Switchable Fuse?

[waterjosh]

Hi all, I was wondering if there is such a thing as a fuse that also works as a switch, currently I am pulling the converter fuses while running the AC off of generator, but I don't think that its very good for it. Does anyone have any ideas on another way to do it?
Thanks

[Gary RVRoamer]

Sure. Do you want to switch off the converter output or remove its 120v input?



Just how to do that easily depends on the type & model of converter. The deck mount type has a power cord that plugs into a wall outlet. Just unplug or put a switch module between it and the wall. The integrated type that is part of the laod center panel (breakers and fuses) makes it harder to get at the 120v power input, but you can still put a 120v circuit breaker of plain old switch on its power wire.



It's also easy to switch off the output of the deck mount type - just put one of the many battery disconnect switches between it and the battery. Again, harder with the hardwired integrated type, but still possible with some wiring mods.


Are you trying to minimize the 120v load on the generator, or is there some other objective? Normally the converter/charger doesn't draw much power, typically about 1 amp, but if the generator is barely enough for the a/c, maybe that's still too much.


As far as pulling fuses, I'm guessing you are talking about reverse polarity fuses (a pair, usually 30A)? That's not harmful if it's done when power is off. Just pull those fuses before turning on the generator.

[waterjosh]

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

Sure. Do you want to switch off the converter output or remove its 120v input?
As far as pulling fuses, I'm guessing you are talking about reverse polarity fuses (a pair, usually 30A)? That's not harmful if it's done when power is off. Just pull those fuses before turning on the generator.

Yes I was trying to reduce demand is all, and yup the reverse polarity fuses i guess, the pair of 30A ones. The converter is definitely the built in type. Good to know its not hurting anything. Thanks for the input, that's why I love this forum

[Persistent]

oopps!

[keymastr]

Or you could get the proper sized generator. Sounds like you are right on the edge of capacity and since low voltage will kill your air conditioner you should make sure you have at least 108 volts while the AC is running. I have a Kill-A-Watt unit that plugs in to an outlet and tells me what the voltage is and you may be surprised at how much the voltage changes on a hot day when the generator is putting out less power. Altitude also makes a difference in how much power the generator can produce.
Here is a link to the meter, great insurance for $20
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...s%2C300&sr=8-3

[waterjosh]

Originally Posted by keymastr

Or you could get the proper sized generator. Sounds like you are right on the edge of capacity and since low voltage will kill your air conditioner you should make sure you have at least 108 volts while the AC is running. I have a Kill-A-Watt unit that plugs in to an outlet and tells me what the voltage is and you may be surprised at how much the voltage changes on a hot day when the generator is putting out less power. Altitude also makes a difference in how much power the generator can produce.
Here is a link to the meter, great insurance for $20
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...s%2C300&sr=8-3

I have a honda eu3000i, should be more than enough, but at altitude, it was just barely, I am getting a Micro-air easystart to help with that, was just asking about the method I was currently using.

[Gary RVRoamer]

One of the breakers in the panel ought to shut off 120v power to the converter/charger. It may also take out power to something else, but that's ok if your goal is to minimize power draw while the a/c is running.


If the breakers aren't accurately labeled (typical!), just experiment to find the right one. Or simply turn off every breaker except the a/c (which is supposed to have a dedicated circuit).

[Spoonsize]

THINK Transfer Switch.8