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Old 10-10-2020, 10:57 AM   #1
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Thoughts on this panel repair plan

I bought a rv that had to areas with some water damage. I repaired on by tearing out the old pannel and putting in new luan. It went mostly as expected but clamping of course was a pia. For the 2nd one i was thinking about cutting out some foam and gluing in some wood cross pieces with pl premium to the back luan and the aluminum farm. The luan attached to the filon should by dry by now but in the event its still damp, I also have a wet surface adhesive at my disposal as well. My purpose in doing this is to provide a surface that I can screw the replacement panel in. I think that this will make the clamping issue much easier.


Any reason to avoid doing this? Sometimes things seem like a great odea but do not work well on practice or are issues down the line.
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:19 AM   #2
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I really don't understand what you are doing?? Is the wall you are working on curved, as in an Airstream or similar RV? Some pictures might also help.
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:46 AM   #3
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Sorry, its a straight Inside wall in a class A. The in luan has some rot from water damage. Im tearing out the old inside water damaged panel and replacong it with new luan. The wall has an aluminum structure with foam block insulation.

I did one pannel earlier ( tear out the old panel, cut new luan, glue the new lun up). It was a pia to clamp it flush during the last repair. If I had cross members to screw the panel to, then i could have screwed to in instead of trying to find ways to brace it while the adhesive dried., Iím thinking about Cutting away some foam to make channel where I can glue on cross Members. This will give me something that I can screw the panel into while the adhesive is drying. I dont care about some screw holes in the luan because they will be filled and covered anyway.
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Old 10-10-2020, 12:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6munro View Post
Sorry, its a straight Inside wall in a class A. The in luan has some rot from water damage. Im tearing out the old inside water damaged panel and replacong it with new luan. The wall has an aluminum structure with foam block insulation.

I did one pannel earlier ( tear out the old panel, cut new luan, glue the new lun up). It was a pia to clamp it flush during the last repair. If I had cross members to screw the panel to, then i could have screwed to in instead of trying to find ways to brace it while the adhesive dried., Iím thinking about Cutting away some foam to make channel where I can glue on cross Members. This will give me something that I can screw the panel into while the adhesive is drying. I dont care about some screw holes in the luan because they will be filled and covered anyway.
Pictures would sure help.

How about taking flat stock aluminum and span between frames? Or maybe even some "L" or "T" stock (little more rigid than flat stock) and rip a narrow channel in the foam. Then screw the luan into that.

Many of these RV's rely on the foam core for rigidity. I'd be reluctant to remove very much.
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Old 10-11-2020, 07:17 AM   #5
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What are you using to glue the panels? Construction adhesive will grip very, very quickly. I've attached panels with only something at the bottom to keep the panel from sliding down.

Alternative is you could use a method I used for a ceiling repair. I made a PVC pipe frame. Put swim noodles in the section that is against the panel. The pipe will bend some to give you pressure. I used 2 different sizing so it would telescope. Tapped a hole & inserted a bolt to hold the length. Worked great.
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Old 10-11-2020, 06:42 PM   #6
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I did just about the same thing on the outside of my slide with foam insulation and aluminum frame. i used contact cement, once we stuck it on it was beer time no clamping. getting the right contact cement was a problem though and expensive, you have to be careful with glues on the foam.
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Old 11-10-2020, 08:13 AM   #7
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I just wanted to follow up on this repair since substantial progress has been made. I did not add studs but I still question whether I should have. I first tried gluing up a new panel which did not work well due to bracing issues. I will ultimately build a bad ass clamping system for a delam repair but that will be in the future.

the luan did not adher properly so I ripped it down.


My solution: fiberglass

I trashed the Luan and did layed up 3 layers of fiberglass. This was super easy and is now hard as a rock. It is not 100 percent smooth yet however its not bad and, I have a gallon of bondo for smoothing and feathering. I have fortunately done a ton of drywall work and while bondo is a lot different than joint compound, I do know how to get it feathered and smooth. I do not know if I would go this route if I had not done this kind of thing before.

Learning experience for this particular project

Only use Epoxy resin over foam. Polyester is no good since it eats of polystyrene foam. Fortunately I found this when spot checking .
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Old 11-10-2020, 08:28 AM   #8
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For minor areas of delamination, anyone find an easy way to do it?

For example:

Drill holes about 1/4 inch through the outer skin in a cosmetically appealing manner (ie, not random).

Get some contact adhesive in a spray can with an extension nozzle, spray into the hole in as wide a pattern as possible... then apply pressure?

I areas where the out skin can be removed its a no brainer to use epoxy/etc. But in a lot of areas you cant take the outer skin off, or even peel it back a little.

What have folks done in that situation?
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Old 11-10-2020, 09:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
For minor areas of delamination, anyone find an easy way to do it?

For example:

Drill holes about 1/4 inch through the outer skin in a cosmetically appealing manner (ie, not random).

Get some contact adhesive in a spray can with an extension nozzle, spray into the hole in as wide a pattern as possible... then apply pressure?

I areas where the out skin can be removed its a no brainer to use epoxy/etc. But in a lot of areas you cant take the outer skin off, or even peel it back a little.

What have folks done in that situation?

so the areas that I repaired here were inside. the outside delam will be in about 6 months. The outside delam is fortunately under the window so access is pretty easy and my clamping system will also be pretty easy. If it was in a different area, then drilling a hole to inject might be the only way. Clamping could also be vastly more challenging as well. the system I am going to build relies on the window opening. With out that opening, it would be more challenging to do with out drilling through the filon.

Now my RV is older and its just a vacation mobile. I kind of care how the exterior looks but its not really all that important. if I did not have access to a good opening for clamping, I would probably do the following:

1) drill a series of holes through the entire wall
2) get some threaded rod, bolts and wood
3) inject epoxy in the delam
4) run the threaded rod through the hole and put wood on either side
5) tighten bolts on either side of the wood to form a good clamp.
6) once done, fiberglass over the exterior holes or otherwise deal with them. (it wont ever be pretty again unless you are really good with fiberglass. I would be ok with this however, my primary concern is structure with relatively low concern of exterior appearance)
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Old 11-10-2020, 10:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
For minor areas of delamination, anyone find an easy way to do it?

For example:

Drill holes about 1/4 inch through the outer skin in a cosmetically appealing manner (ie, not random).

Get some contact adhesive in a spray can with an extension nozzle, spray into the hole in as wide a pattern as possible... then apply pressure?

I areas where the out skin can be removed its a no brainer to use epoxy/etc. But in a lot of areas you cant take the outer skin off, or even peel it back a little.

What have folks done in that situation?

Btw, i would not use contact adhesive unless you are replacing the luan. The delam is generally between the luan layers and not just a separation of the filon and luan. You need something with low viscosity to drip down the layers and that can penetrate between the layers. It also must be able to gap fill substantial gaps because clamping will not be 100 percent flush. Contact cement by its nature does not flow or penetrate or gap fill. Its great if you are removing the filon and replacing the luan though. Epoxy works well because it does not eat the foam and generally does not get hot enough to melt it when applied (heat could become an issue in the right circumstances but i could not see this happening in this application). You have to use a penetrating epoxy which will have a low viscosity. The kits should already have the right type.
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Old 11-10-2020, 10:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 6munro View Post
so the areas that I repaired here were inside. the outside delam will be in about 6 months. The outside delam is fortunately under the window so access is pretty easy and my clamping system will also be pretty easy. If it was in a different area, then drilling a hole to inject might be the only way. Clamping could also be vastly more challenging as well. the system I am going to build relies on the window opening. With out that opening, it would be more challenging to do with out drilling through the filon.

Now my RV is older and its just a vacation mobile. I kind of care how the exterior looks but its not really all that important. if I did not have access to a good opening for clamping, I would probably do the following:

1) drill a series of holes through the entire wall
2) get some threaded rod, bolts and wood
3) inject epoxy in the delam
4) run the threaded rod through the hole and put wood on either side
5) tighten bolts on either side of the wood to form a good clamp.
6) once done, fiberglass over the exterior holes or otherwise deal with them. (it wont ever be pretty again unless you are really good with fiberglass. I would be ok with this however, my primary concern is structure with relatively low concern of exterior appearance)
when i did my outside filon replacement i just layed the filon out on my shop floor about 13x7 and glued 1/8 plywood to the back. this then was contact glued to the foam and aluminum frame work no clamping required. it was relatively easy for the first time, and looks good.
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Old 11-10-2020, 10:22 AM   #12
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when i did my outside filon replacement i just layed the filon out on my shop floor about 13x7 and glued 1/8 plywood to the back. this then was contact glued to the foam and aluminum frame work no clamping required. it was relatively easy for the first time, and looks good.
Jay D.
That makes sense. The other recommendation I made would just be for clamping. where your doing the epoxy method but do not have a good way to clamp.
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Old 11-10-2020, 07:09 PM   #13
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yep, the clamping is the big problem. i just didn't have any place that i could get a good full clamp. the contact cement was the trick, once the two pieces were pushed together a bomb couldn't have separated them. the hardest part was carrying the 13' x 7' piece of filon and glued plywood from the shop to the stand i had made along side of the slide. there was 3 of us and it was like carrying a 13' noddle, and then my wife was helping.
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Old 11-11-2020, 03:31 PM   #14
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On the fairing, I suggest West Systems with their light filler. Sands easily and will hold up better than Bondo, or I just didn't do the Bondo right.
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