Torque Wrenches

[Frank P. Martin]

My 1/2" Craftsman torque wrench's warranty reads as follows:

FULL 90 DAY WARRANTY ON CRAFTSMAN MICROTORK MICRO ADJUSTING TORQUE WRENCH

If within 90 days from data of purchase, this Craftsman Microtork torque wrench fails, due to a defect in material or workmanship, Sears will repair and/or recalibrate it free of charge.

LIMITED WARRANTY

After 90 days and until one year from the date of purchase, Sears will repair any defect in materials or workmanship in the torque wrench free of charge, This warranty coverage does not include recalibration.

Warranty service is available by returning the torque wrench to the nearest Sears store throughout the United States.

We sell many brands of torque wrenches and I'm not aware of any that offer a lifetime warranty due to the fact that torque wrenches are sensitive instruments and can be easily knocked out of calibration by a sudden jar (i.e. dropping it to the floor)

[Ray,IN]

Needing a 1/2" torque wrench for seldom use, I bought one from Harbor Freight. Before using, I walked across the road to my mechanic/neighbor and asked him to check it out. Next evening he told me it checked out exactly to his Snap-On torque wrench. After using it to torque the head bolts on my 1952 Harry Ferguson tractor, I returned and asked him to re-check the Harbor Freight wrench. He said it was "dead-on" with his Snap-on wrench he had calibrated that very day.
May not be anyone else's experience, but that's mine. I don't use it every day, nor intend to, but it hasn't failed yet. It's use now is to check lug-nut torque on the 5er.
Using a socket extension with a torque wrench must be done carefully. One must take care to keep the extension directly in line with the nut/bolt to obtain a correct reading.

[HB Phil]

I've found many inadequately tightened lug nuts that had been put on by impact wrenches. I use one myself to firmly seat the lug nuts. Then I go back with a beam type torque wrench and can usually give them another 1/4 to 1/2 turn before they are torqued to spec. I'm hauling on it pretty good though.

I'd want one of those clicker torque wrenches, maybe a Snap onm brand, for finer torque work.

Originally posted by chasfm11:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">On my rig, the wheel nuts need to be torqued to 500 foot pounds, I use a four foot cheater bar and weigh in a 250, so when standing on a bathroom scale, and reducing my "apparent" weight by 125 lbs (125 x 4 = 500), that nut is torqued.

Ed, your information is helpful but it is an area where I'm still too worried to try it myself. How, for example, to you keep the socket on the lug nut? Perhaps your setup is different but there is a fair "offset" on our rig (from the top of the lug bolt to the point far enough past the side of the RV where the cheater bar and my fingers can pass to apply the force). It appears that there out to be some sort of pivot point to stabilize the resulting corner.

If I were going to be doing my on RV wheels, I'd want one of the 1" impact wrenches. For the times when I've had my wheels changed, that is what they've used and I've never had a problem. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[DAN L]

i bought a 1/2 drive torque wr from harbor freight about 25 years ago.
when i was still working, i would test it on a torque wrench calibration tester about every 6 months. it was never off by more than 3 ft lbs, and the calibration did not change.
when you are finished using the torque wrench it is very important to release the spring pressure by turning the set knob to zero, the add a little pressure, maybe 2 or 3 ft lbs, so that the spring does not rattle.
last year i purchased a 3/4 drive, 600 ft lb, torque wr from harbor freight for less than $150. it is 42 inches long and torques my lugnuts to 475 ft lb. it does take a lot of pressure on the end of the wrench. the rear wheels require a long extension which requires a second person to stabilize. my moho has 33mm lugnuts. a 1-5/16 socket works ok. the wheel liner jamb nuts are 30mm. a 1-3/16 socket works ok.
the lugnuts on my 5 year old moho with less than 9k miles were only torqued to 300-350 ft lb.

[chasfm11]

I've found many inadequately tightened lug nuts that had been put on by impact wrenches. I use one myself to firmly seat the lug nuts. Then I go back with a beam type torque wrench and can usually give them another 1/4 to 1/2 turn before they are torqued to spec. I'm hauling on it pretty good though.

I'd want one of those clicker torque wrenches, maybe a Snap onm brand, for finer torque work.

On regular vehicles, I only torque to 90ft lbs. That has worked for 30 years.

The problem with the RV is that they are supposed to be torqued to 500ft lbs and, without a cheater bar, I'm not capable of that. My concern with the cheater bar setup is expressed in another post. Perhaps I'm just doing it wrong

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by chasfm11:
The problem with the RV is that they are supposed to be torqued to 500ft lbs and, without a cheater bar, I'm not capable of that.

See HERE.

Rusty

[BookIIRoadtrash]

Originally posted by chasfm11:


The problem with the RV is that they are supposed to be torqued to 500ft lbs

Davydee, Don’t get mixed up with what folks are using for torque on a moho, On my fiver it is 120 ft.lbs. Book2

[RustyJC]

Please note - in addition to the Excel forum, this thread also shows up in iRV2.com General Discussion, so you'll have both MH and 5th wheel/TT input coming into this thread. We each have to filter out the information that applies to our particular situation.

Rusty

[BookIIRoadtrash]

Originally posted by RustyJC:
Please note - in addition to the Excel forum, this thread also shows up in iRV2.com General Discussion, so you'll have both MH and 5th wheel/TT input coming into this thread. We each have to filter out the information that applies to our particular situation.

Rusty

That is what makes it hard when you folks cross link them….some folks might not be able to filter things putting IRV2 into a liability……Book2

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by book2roadtrash:
That is what makes it hard when you folks cross link them….some folks might not be able to filter things putting IRV2 into a liability……Book2

That's a discussion for another thread.

Rusty

[Ed-Sommers]

About some of the comments on torquing without a torque wrench. It's good to remember that torquing was around before torque wrenches! The tool was invented mainly to save time for those that had to do it a lot, not because they are more accurate. I own two torque wrenches, one foot pound and one inch pound, and I use them a lot, but NOT on my RV lug nuts where the specks are 500 foot pounds, I don't have that heavy of a wrench!

A lawyer would question you about any way you do it. "Sir, when was the last time you had your torque wrench certified?" And so on - - knowing what torque is and how it's attained is more important than using a tool of convenience.

On my MCI bus, for the front wheels, I turn the wheels slightly right or left (depending on the side I'm working on) to gain clearance for my hands and bar length so an extender is not needed, and use the bath scale method. I tighten them in turn, in steps, up to the desired torque then stop!!!! NO BOUNCING.

On the rear, an extension is needed to get the needed room. The procedure here is to block up the bitter end (woops - that was a Navy term, well really a sailors term) to make it level and steady, then do the job. Just for info, my lug nuts are one and a half inch nuts.

I remove and reinstall all 6 of my 22.5 inch tires/wheels yearly to 1. Inspect the breaks/linkage ect., 2. keep the bolts rust free to make an emergency tire change alongside the road easier, even though I do have roadside insurence.

On my car I use my torque wrench.

I had more to say but this is enuf huh? I'm done!!!

Ed

P.S. Give me a place to stand, and a long enough bar, I can accurately torque to just below infinity.

Originally posted by Ed-Sommers:
If a torque wrench is needed fairly often, then a wrench is an asset.

On the other hand if all you need is to torque your wheel nuts every so often, then a wrench is not needed at all!

Lets say you weigh two hundred pounds, and you need to torque you wheel nuts to 200 ftlbs, then all you need to do is use a foot long bar and raise yourself off the ground to your toes (do not bounce), and that nut is torqued.

Or, lets say you use a 2 foot "cheater" bar. In this case you would only have to provide a force of 100 lbs (100 X 2 = 200)! To do this just stand on a bathroom scale while pushing down on the bar and when you appear to weigh only 100 lbs , that nut is torqued.

Or, You have your 50 pound child do the torquing, a four foot piece of pipe for a cheater bar, and the child coming up to their toes while pushing down on the end of the bar, that nut is torqued!

On my rig, the wheel nuts need to be torqued to 500 foot pounds, I use a four foot cheater bar and weigh in a 250, so when standing on a bathroom scale, and reducing my "apparent" weight by 125 lbs (125 x 4 = 500), that nut is torqued.

Lastly, say you only carry a four foot cheater bar but only need a shorter length for whatever reason. Just put your hands at the shorter length making the length from the center of the net to your hands the distance you require (torque = force x length).

Ed

[davydee]

Just so everyone's aware, I appreciate everyone's input, and I'm learning a lot! Thanks!!! David

[dirko]

Hi Ho: Whether to use a torquewrench? I have rebuilt a number of engines, rear ends, etc. and have had a torquewrench for 45 years that still works fine.

I don't mount tires any more, but when I get tires replaced that is exactly when I need to test the install. I used to think think that tire shops were reliable, but after getting a new set of tires on the Suburban about 15 years ago have an entirely different view. Discount Tires (a large respected tire store here) put new tires on for me but forgot to tighten the lug nuts. That night we were on the freeway headed to Wyoming at about 75 mph and a little voice said that something wasn't quite right. I stopped just before the last lug nut fell off.

Now, do I always use the torquewrench to tighten lug nuts when replacing brakes for example? No...well, once in a great while. I use the air impact wrench, and I know from experience how much air pressure and length of time to tighten the lug nuts. I then check with a breaker bar. If you don't know your equipment well, by all means use a torquewrench...at least until you have confidence in some other approach.

I know that tire shops are required by law to torque lug nuts, but that doesn't mean that it will be done or done right. I have far less confidence in them than in than in any method that I use. Remember that in order to make money they have to hire people that will work at a relatively low hourly rate. Be sure to check after work is done.. Only my opinion.

Dirk

[Diesel Guy]

Hello as I mechanic for over 40 Years please remember this about torque wrenches use them only to tighten the wheel nuts never use them to loosen the wheel nuts. Snap On only makes torque wrenches to tighten if they are in a ratchet form