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Old 06-18-2020, 05:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by TB673 View Post
What does this switch feed now?
Beat me to it - I was going to guess pump house or something like that. Looks like SE cable feeding it due to the uninsulated, stranded neutral conductor, so ground rods would also be needed since it's a service point (based on a lot of assumptions). The OP should consult an electrician, IMO.
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Old 06-19-2020, 03:37 PM   #16
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Whole new circuit

I think you need an entirely new circuit for 30 amp 120 volt use.

I am not experienced enough to recognize the box you showed or for what purpose it was installed. Does it currently power something other than your RV? If so, it may not be available for RV use.

The wire gauge looks small. You said each leg has a 20 amp breaker. That means the wire gauge should be 12 gauge for no more than 50 feet. It looks like 14 gauge which is only good for 15 amps. If the distance to the service entrance is longer than 50 feet, the wire needs to be larger (maybe 10 gauge).

Since there are two separate breakers, it is not wired properly for 240 volt use. 240 volt use would require a two pole breaker where the two breakers are mechanically linked so if one blows, the other will trip also. However, there may be 240 volts present.

Measure the voltage from black to red and to white. White to red and white to black should each read 120 volts. Black to red may read 240 volts or zero volts. Either way, you can correct the ground to neutral wiring and connect black and white to one 20 amp outlet and red and white to another 20 amp outlet. You cannot use the red and black together.

Ground must be separate from the white neutral wire. I don’t know if the ground requires an additional ground stake at the box.

You need a whole new cable back to the service entrance. The existing wire is too small. You do need a new box and socket for a 30 amp 120 volt outlet.

None of the existing wire or box is usable for a 30 amp 120 volt outlet. You need 10 gage wire back to the service entrance. If the distance is greater than 50 feet you need even larger wire.

You need a new 30 amp 120 volt breaker in the service entrance to connect the 10 gauge wire to. You need a box to house the new 30 amp 120 volt outlet. It would be good to have a 30 amp breaker in the new box to disconnect or reset when in use. Again, I don’t know if you need a new ground stake at the new box.

Note: If you hire an electrician to do the work, don’t assume he knows what you need for your RV. Electricians who are familiar with other home wiring have sometimes assumed the owner needs 240 volts. You do not. You need 120 volts. Several people on iRV2 have reported frying all their electrical when they plugged into a new 30 amp outlet that turned out to be 240 volts.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead.
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Old 06-19-2020, 03:58 PM   #17
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If you decide to retain the existing 3 phase switch, just remember, 30 amps #10 wire and 30 amp fuse.
By the way, the Neutral bar is to the Left of the Left fuse.
Also, the correct way to wire a 3 Phase Switch for Single Phase use is to land the Line conductors on the 2 Outer Poles and leave the Middle Pole empty. Only fuse the wire that will go to your new rv receptacle. Leave the spare fuse in the bottom of the switch for later use.
What does this switch feed now?
The dual poles 20A breaker service a small vacation house: I measure and it pull 2-3A on the average without the RV.

Currently I tap into the second 20A breaker via couple of 25ft (10 gauges) extension cords and I can see it pull up to 15.9A or so (once I turn on the bedroom AC + fridge ).

They are not able to turn on the main AC ( 13.5k btu ) which I expect so.

I got the new clamp amp and it really cool.

EV-
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Old 06-19-2020, 04:14 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Persistent View Post
I think you need an entirely new circuit for 30 amp 120 volt use.

I am not experienced enough to recognize the box you showed or for what purpose it was installed. Does it currently power something other than your RV? If so, it may not be available for RV use.

The wire gauge looks small. You said each leg has a 20 amp breaker. That means the wire gauge should be 12 gauge for no more than 50 feet. It looks like 14 gauge which is only good for 15 amps. If the distance to the service entrance is longer than 50 feet, the wire needs to be larger (maybe 10 gauge).

Since there are two separate breakers, it is not wired properly for 240 volt use. 240 volt use would require a two pole breaker where the two breakers are mechanically linked so if one blows, the other will trip also. However, there may be 240 volts present.

Measure the voltage from black to red and to white. White to red and white to black should each read 120 volts. Black to red may read 240 volts or zero volts. Either way, you can correct the ground to neutral wiring and connect black and white to one 20 amp outlet and red and white to another 20 amp outlet. You cannot use the red and black together.

Ground must be separate from the white neutral wire. I donít know if the ground requires an additional ground stake at the box.

You need a whole new cable back to the service entrance. The existing wire is too small. You do need a new box and socket for a 30 amp 120 volt outlet.

None of the existing wire or box is usable for a 30 amp 120 volt outlet. You need 10 gage wire back to the service entrance. If the distance is greater than 50 feet you need even larger wire.

You need a new 30 amp 120 volt breaker in the service entrance to connect the 10 gauge wire to. You need a box to house the new 30 amp 120 volt outlet. It would be good to have a 30 amp breaker in the new box to disconnect or reset when in use. Again, I donít know if you need a new ground stake at the new box.

Note: If you hire an electrician to do the work, donít assume he knows what you need for your RV. Electricians who are familiar with other home wiring have sometimes assumed the owner needs 240 volts. You do not. You need 120 volts. Several people on iRV2 have reported frying all their electrical when they plugged into a new 30 amp outlet that turned out to be 240 volts.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead.
I have a (feel like) competent electrician look at the circuit today and he said the existing feed should handle 200A based on the current fuses .On the new run: we will add a single TT-30R 120V run with single 30A breaker, other two on the existing newtral legs. This is all on 10/3 cable.



He do not elaborate on fix the existing wiring, only said it will need more design/time and money involve ()

I hope i explain what I (think) he said...



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Old 06-19-2020, 04:26 PM   #19
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I hope 200 amp was a misprint. No way will what looks like a 60 amp switch with 30 amp fuse reducers, handle 200 amps.
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Old 06-19-2020, 04:54 PM   #20
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Looks like a total redo very old wiring, black wire in bottom left corner is melted and arching on box. Thatís a fire waiting to happen.
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Old 06-20-2020, 07:35 AM   #21
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Ground must be separate from the white neutral wire. I donít know if the ground requires an additional ground stake at the box.
Neutrals and grounds isolated unless this is an actual service through that heavy SE cable, in which case the box and grounds are bonded to the neutral, and there needs to be a grounding electrode system (usually ground rods for something free-standing), also bonded. But I donít know if that box is even Ďservice equipmentí listed, or whatís feeding it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Persistent View Post
Note: If you hire an electrician to do the work, donít assume he knows what you need for your RV. Electricians who are familiar with other home wiring have sometimes assumed the owner needs 240 volts. You do not. You need 120 volts. Several people on iRV2 have reported frying all their electrical when they plugged into a new 30 amp outlet that turned out to be 240 volts.
I can understand how that can happen, since when folks ask for a ď30 amp circuit with receptacleĒ, the only 30A circuits with receptacles in most residences is for a clothes dryer (120/240V ungrounded for the long ago obsoleted 3-wire type). But the TT30 receptacle is marked 125V, grounded, so any sparky who installs one of them on a 120/240V branch circuit should have his license pulled. And yet it does happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by envy23 View Post
I have a (feel like) competent electrician look at the circuit today and he said the existing feed should handle 200A based on the current fuses .On the new run: we will add a single TT-30R 120V run with single 30A breaker, other two on the existing newtral legs. This is all on 10/3 cable.
I think what he means is that the SE cable is good for up to 200A, but thatís if itís 4/0 aluminum (or 2/0 copper), AND if itís the sole supply to a dwelling unit (house or apartment). If itís a feeder to something other than a dwelling unit, 4/0 aluminium is good to 150A (from memory). Thatís still a lot more juice than you need, so assuming the cable is in good shape, he should be able to replace that old box with a proper small panel thatís service rated (if the SE cable comes straight from the meter), which is cheap, and run a new circuit to the cottage and to your new TT30 receptacle.

But Iím making a lot of assumptions there.
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Old 06-20-2020, 12:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by envy23 View Post
I have a (feel like) competent electrician look at the circuit today and he said the existing feed should handle 200A based on the current fuses .On the new run: we will add a single TT-30R 120V run with single 30A breaker, other two on the existing newtral legs. This is all on 10/3 cable.

He do not elaborate on fix the existing wiring, only said it will need more design/time and money involve ()

EV-
Since we're only looking at a single photo of a single box and can't examine the entire feed system it's a bit difficult to tell what's really going on. However, in light of what your electrician is saying, I'd probably want to get a second opinion from another electrician. If you're going to spend $$$ getting it done, you want to get it done right the first time and like doctors, not all electricians are created equal.
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