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10-27-2018, 10:50 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN
The main byproduct of burning LPG is water.
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To be clear, the humidity buildup due to the water from combustion happens with an unvented unit (Big/Little Buddy), while with our vented forced air units, the water (and CO2) goes out the exhaust port.
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Jay: Retired - Home Base: NEOhio
MH: 1998 Winnebago Chieftan 36WL-P - Freightliner XC, Cummins 5.9L 24V ISB
Toad: Chevy Cruze via Dolly
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10-27-2018, 10:56 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Enjoying the Western States!
Posts: 19,794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvjackson
To be clear, the humidity buildup due to the water from combustion happens with an unvented unit (Big/Little Buddy), while with our vented forced air units, the water (and CO2) goes out the exhaust port.
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… and so does a lot of wasted heat.
Humidity can be controlled. We did it for 16+ years. We never used the furnace.
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Full-timed for 16 Years . . .
Traveled 8 yr in a 2004 Newmar Dutch Star 40' Diesel
& 8 yr in a 33' Travel Supreme 5th wheel
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10-28-2018, 12:05 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceNeu
Any ideas or recommendations for electric space heaters? Brands, price, and sellers...
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Go to Walmart. Likely several there. I have Holmes brand personal heaters. 70w and 150w, or thereabouts. Mechanical as the OP comments. I use a thermocube to automatically turn them on/off.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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10-28-2018, 12:39 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 3,009
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Just in case anyone wants to test their space heater with a Kill-A-Watt, for power consumption for instance, do not leave it plugged in for very long on the high setting. The back of my Kill-A-Watt got very hot and scorched the face plate of the outlet on the 1500 watt setting. It would probably be okay on the lower 750 watt setting. I don't sleep or even leave the room with it on the high setting setting but will sleep in the bedroom with it on the low setting.
But that's just me.[emoji16]
__________________
2005 Monaco Knight 40PLQ; Cummins 8.3L ISC330, Pacbrake, Allison 3000, Roadmaster RR8R, ScanGauge D, 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750(Geezer Glide) on a Versahaul carrier pulling a 2013 Kia Soul+; 2.0L, 6 speed Sport shifter(great car) on an American Car Dolly(great dolly.)
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10-28-2018, 04:21 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Montana, Arizona
Posts: 1,398
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We use an electric whenever we have a plug in. Maybe it's because I'm just cheap. A couple of things to be aware of: if it's really cold you probably need to run you furnace to keep you basement area heated and above freezing. This depends on your rig and how it's designed. The second thing is RVs are usually wired differently than you house. Pull an outlet and see how the connections were made. Odds are the wire is just pushed between two contacts not connected by a screw and it's probably 14 gauge wire. That arrangement is OK for occasional use of high amperage loads, but I've always feared using that design for all night heater usage. I've always added a separate outlet wired with 12 gauge wire and a male pigtail. I plug it in separately to one of the 20 amp outlets in the RV pedestal. I know it's a bit anal retentive but I sleep better.
__________________
2016 Arctic Fox 27-5L
2022 Chevy 3500 Duramax
2018 JLUR
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10-28-2018, 10:20 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 343
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Not all 1500 watt heaters are created equal. For example, the quartz heaters rated at 1500 watts do not transfer all of the heat. You may have 1500 watts of light bulbs but several thing happen. As the temperature of the filament raises so does its' resistance. also, it needs to transfer the heat to the copper tubes. These are the reasons my Honeywell tower out ran the Bob Villa heater. Regarding other heaters, the small 6"x 6" 1500 watt heaters don't have the heat transfer surface. Again resistance goes up with temperature of the core and less heat into the room. So best bet is a large core with lots of surface to conduct the heat away along with a large volume fan.
We use the Honeywell Safety Sentinel Electronic Ceramic Tower Heater, HZ-3855 BP. You can get them at Best Buy and Amazon.
Lastly, all electric heaters have a disclaimer regarding running them left alone. That includes your built-in fireplaces. You really shouldn't do it.
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10-28-2018, 10:21 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Grasonville, MD -- Golden, CO
Posts: 6,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN
The main byproduct of burning LPG is water. During cold weather most RV's are prone to condensation problems on cooler exterior walls, especially in closed cabinets on exterior walls.
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Burning is not taking place inside the coach.
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10-28-2018, 10:26 AM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 4,985
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I mounted a 100W light bulb fixture next to the water pump and tank with the 25' cord hanging out the phone jack plug for cold nights.
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10-28-2018, 03:47 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: The Gardens TN
Posts: 321
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X2 oil filled radiant heater. Safe too
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10-28-2018, 06:57 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,984
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Respondents who recommend specific electric heaters should mention how they use it. Relying on the heater for an RV in storage is totally different than using a heater for supplementally heating the RV while residing in the RV. They have different requirements and issues.
As mentioned, RV propane furnaces vent the water combustion byproduct out the exhaust along with deadly combustion gasses. A Mr. Buddy, or similar devices, do not.
__________________
'04 Newmar Mountain Aire 4016
400ISL/Freightliner
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