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Old 06-15-2021, 11:43 AM   #1
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Using extension cord when camping

I have had to use an extension*cord to hook up to electricity when camping. I've been using the heavy*black RV cord.*(NU-CORD 50-Amp Rv Extension Cord 25-Feet) The plug has melted before and I had a hard time unplugging it. Is there something else I can do to prevent this? Thank you*
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Old 06-15-2021, 11:57 AM   #2
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Plug melted.....
Bad contacts/loose/aching/corrosion etc generate HEAT
HEAT melts things

Replace Both plugs...Male & Female
Make sure wire connections are tight
Use some di-electric grease on the male prongs before plugging into the female plug

Male 50A Plug with finger grips
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...A10-P50VP.html

Female 50A Plug with finger grips
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...A10-R50VP.html
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Old 06-15-2021, 12:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoya View Post
I have had to use an extension*cord to hook up to electricity when camping. I've been using the heavy*black RV cord.*(NU-CORD 50-Amp Rv Extension Cord 25-Feet) The plug has melted before and I had a hard time unplugging it. Is there something else I can do to prevent this? Thank you*
Heat in an electrical connection is caused by resistance. Your 50 amp extension cord has 6 gauge wire for the power leads and should be more than adequate to carry the load to your RV. Something else is causing the resistance and that is more than likely the plug prongs, or possibly a poorly constructed molded plug interior connection. Heat will be generated at the site of the poor connection, so if the plug has melted, that is where the high resistance is. Could be the prongs of the plug or the receptacle.
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Old 06-15-2021, 12:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Zoya View Post
I have had to use an extension*cord to hook up to electricity when camping. I've been using the heavy*black RV cord.*(NU-CORD 50-Amp Rv Extension Cord 25-Feet) The plug has melted before and I had a hard time unplugging it. Is there something else I can do to prevent this? Thank you*
First order is make sure your extension cord is correct for 50 amp. I am understanding you are running your permanent 50 amp cord and need an extra 25 feet to reach the power supply.

50 amp should be 3 6 gauge wires and 1 8 gauge wire. Make sure all the blades on both plugs are clean and shiny. You may have to sandpaper them from time to time. Make sure the 50 amp breaker is shut off when you plug into the power pedestal. Only turn it back on AFTER you have both cords plugged in. NEVER plug any RV cord in with power on at the pedestal, and you should also have as much load turned off in the coach when turning on the power at the pedestal. After your all hooked up then turn your AC Microwave refrigerator on.

If there is any question that the power pedestal is not working correctly, have it checked. If it looks dirty I sometimes plug and unplug the cord several times. Basically you are cleaning the socket, getting junk out and scratching it up a little for a better connection.

The last thing you can do, is put a little dielectric grease on the blades of the plug. Usually not needed.

If you are having plugs and sockets that stick themselves together either the connection is not good or you are drawing to much power and over heating the wire/plug.
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Old 06-15-2021, 12:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoya View Post
I have had to use an extension*cord to hook up to electricity when camping. I've been using the heavy*black RV cord.*(NU-CORD 50-Amp Rv Extension Cord 25-Feet) The plug has melted before and I had a hard time unplugging it. Is there something else I can do to prevent this? Thank you*
The best thing to do is replace the original plug end of the electrical cord on the camper, and not use extensions.
In order to carry the appropriate amperage (50A) at 25 feet the conductor size needs to be 4 gauge wire (nearly a full quarter inch thick wire... - Think starter battery cables thick). By plugging in an extension cord to the original camper cord all you are doing is lowering the carrying capacity of the entire cord set.

A new plug end is only $25 and well worth the safety factor.



BTW: The burnt socket that caused your plug to overheat, was probably no fault of yours, but of someone who came before you and created a carbon build up on the socket. That buildup created enough resistance to create an arc and the arc is what heated up the socket to melt your plug.

That is why I always shove my plug into the socket a few times before flipping the breaker on, (to make sure I have a clean path of electricity to my camper).
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Old 06-15-2021, 12:13 PM   #6
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I try to get at least one wrap around the post with my cord then use a rubber bungee cord to hold the plug securely into the plug on the pedestal. Often times we will be where two sites share one pedestal and someone will be turning water valves on and off as well as tripping over hoses and cords.
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Old 06-15-2021, 12:14 PM   #7
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The 50 amp extension cord should handle the amperage but there are things that can hamper this. The voltage coming in being too low, too much resistance at connections, and simply trying to run too much stuff inside the rig. This can especially happen when outside temperatures are high.

You definitely need to cut off the melted receptacle/plug and wire in new. You then need to make sure all connection points are clean. Clean any corrosion, lightly sand if needed to get brass showing on blades and inside the female portions of the receptacles. Make sure you're disconnected from power when doing this. When plugging into the campground pedestal, check that the receptacle doesn't show signs of overheating (it's not burnt) and that it has good tension.

It's always a good idea to check for heat build up at connection points after things are up and running.
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Old 06-15-2021, 07:00 PM   #8
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There is a misconception Dielectric grease is designed to be an insulator not a conductor. For that reason I use graphite grease.
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Old 06-15-2021, 10:51 PM   #9
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Dielectric grease is a silicone-based grease that is used in an electric circuit to protect components from dirt, moisture, and corrosion.

Dielectric grease helps to prevent arcing between the electrical components.

Yes it is an 'insulator'
It also is useful on electrical plugs that lay in the dirt, hang out in the open, exposed to moisture etc

Been wiping my 50A Male RV plug prongs with it for years.
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Old 06-16-2021, 05:54 AM   #10
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There is a misconception Dielectric grease is designed to be an insulator not a conductor. For that reason I use graphite grease.
A proper electrical connection is a tight mechanical connection between clean conductors. If you have that dielectric grease won't interfere with the conductivity of the bond, and it will slow corrosion.
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Old 06-16-2021, 06:47 AM   #11
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Look up No-Ox-Id. We have been using this in the electrical industry for years and years. It is not a silicon based grease and can be used in practically every electrical component in your rv. Works great for battery connections all the down to cat 5 cable if used correctly. I keep a tube on the coach all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Tube...00HSW341A?th=1
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Old 06-16-2021, 07:02 AM   #12
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Zoya, I fully agree with what Mudfrog had to say. I dare say most melted plugs are a result of folks not understanding the electrical draw they are generating inside. I have seen this over and over again - mostly with 30A plugs but certainly with 50A as well.

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Old 06-16-2021, 07:46 AM   #13
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There is a misconception Dielectric grease is designed to be an insulator not a conductor. For that reason I use graphite grease.
WOW! I never knew that! My lesson for the day!
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Old 06-16-2021, 07:49 AM   #14
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Look up No-Ox-Id. We have been using this in the electrical industry for years and years. It is not a silicon based grease and can be used in practically every electrical component in your rv. Works great for battery connections all the down to cat 5 cable if used correctly. I keep a tube on the coach all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Tube...00HSW341A?th=1
THANKS for sharing this!
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