Using pressure washer to clean RV

[NeilV]

A pressure washer even the small electrics will do incremental damage to most any surface even when used "properly" and can do substantial damage if used improperly. Any seam that is marginal will have much more water pass through it when a pressure washer is used and a pressure washer is more likely to get between the sealant and the hard surface actually causing the seam to fail than just a nozzle on a garden hose.

I have seen some in a moment of inattention take the paint right off their basement door handles even with a low powered electric pressure washer and yes the personal injuries from accidentally spaying oneself or a helper with a 0 Degree Nozzle can be horrific creating a 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide gash all the way down to the bone.

That a professional uses them by default has little meaning today as most are not well trained or informed. Most communities do not have any training or licensing specific to using a pressure washer safely and just about anyone can set up a pressure washing business in most locations by simply paying the fee for a business license and maybe taking a workmen's comp and sole proprietorship seminar.

Personally I use a small electric with a round flat surface cleaning attachment setting it to the most delicate surface setting which creates the largest gap between the rotating spray heads and the surface being cleaned. A soft bung brush is used on seams and delicate items.

My next door neighbor has a gas powered pressure washer and truth be told I get more work done with the electric and the tool set I have without all the noise from the gas engine, stops to get more gas, oil changes and other maintenance. He usually does some damage to his window screens, caulking and paint too. You should have seen how his fence turned all fuzzy once it dried the first time he used it for that purpose.

Bottom line is that some people can safely use a pressure washer while others just blast away and may not find out how much damage they did until years later or possibly never as they will have sold or traded what they damaged and it will be the next owner that will deal with the long term impacts.

My coach has a hole in the fiberglass roof from the pressure washing professionals that detailed my coach for Lazydays in Sefner Florida. They blasted right through it and said nothing. I have a plastic plug in the hole sealed with EternaBond for now but some day will go up there with my fiberglass repair kit to correctly fix it with a few layers of mat with epoxy and then finish it off with white gel putty.

[OldWrench]

Originally Posted by helopilot880

DW bought me a pressure washer. I'm thinking of using it to was roof and sides of RV. The roof is rubber and the sides are Gel-coated. Has anyone used a pressure washer to clean their RV, and, if so what do I need to be concerned about?

I used to sell power washers. I would not use a power washer on an RV unless you are very very careful. The power spray will pressure into places you do not want water. If held too close it will remove paint, make a hole in 2 inch boards etc.

I will not let anyone pressure wash my vehicles. Use soap, a soft brush or cloth and a soft spray. The real secret is gallons per minute and not Pressure (PSI)

[2Yung2 Quit]

Oh my. Chicken Little.

[grindstone01]

I have had good success power washing our fifth wheel. I mostly power wash the TPO roof set on 1200 psi only using water and it takes about a half hour once a year. It gets rid of all the black spots and leaves the roof white.
If you get leaks while power washing, then you have a weak seam that would have leaked soon anyways, probably during a storm.

[Dav L]

"My coach has a hole in the fiberglass roof from the pressure washing professionals that detailed my coach"
Really??
My power washer is 3800 psi 4gpm. Even with a tight tip that would be very difficult to do. You would have to hold the wand motionless for a half hour.
If there is any interest, I can do a test on a piece of FRP tomorrow.

[RM Art]

I use a very soft bristle [approximate 6" to 8" long wide by 3" wide] push-brush screwed onto the regular bold-threaded end of an inexpensive mop/broom handle. The handle can be wood, plastic or metal and one piece or extendable. HD and most hardware stores carry the handles. Very soft bristle push-brushes are not as easy to locate. Lumber, masonry and general building supply yards may carry the brushes. At times HD stocks soft bristle push-brushes too.

My cleaning sequence:

- Having long handled soft brush ready... 3/4 fill-up a 5 gallon bucket [or other large container] with water and Simple Green detergent [or detergent of your choice in concentration you feel appropriate]
- Spray off vehicle with pressure hose
- Dunk the brush in cleaning solution and scrub-apply to surface in a rather gentle sweeping motion
- I do areas of 50 to 100 square feet with cleaning solution filled brush... re-dunking as necessary. Area covered depends on sun-heat and winds before drying/evaporation can take hold
- Rinse off still damp cleaning solution with hose. Repeat if needed.
- Important to rinse with hose before the then grime filled detergent solution dries onto surface. Otherwise... ya gotta start over again on that sector

Fast/inexpensive process that enables good quality cleaning, little equipment required.

EZ too!!

[Rossi6998]

Quicker is not always better. IMHO, although tempting, I would not use a pressure washer on my RV. A good brush on an expandable pole, a bucket of soapy water, and water to rinse your RV is all you need.

[Yetirider]

Ditto on the common sense, no big deal.

[Smitty77]

Timely topic! Going from earlier to today:

-We had a 'Professional' power wash our roof and coach, with ionized water. (He stressed the ionized water, as if it was a special force of nature..,). I went to check on how things were going relatively early, and as I saw him on our roof shooting power washing at what seemed to be a force from outside of galaxy - I attempted to get his attention to stop. Not quick enough on my part, as he was just up to the front passenger side, over the door, and was hitting the door awning at full force... But did get him to stop...
-I suggested he get off of my roof and come down. He said he still had a few more areas to clean... I politely, but clearly, said 'No! Go ahead and come down, and no more power washing.'. He did...
-He had an attitude when he reached the ground. First thing he said is 'You stopping me, does not stop the price I quoted.'... I explained politely, that I was more concerned about potential damage from his full power trailer mounted Power Washer, and Ionized water, then I was about the 'quoted price'. He said I should not worry, that he power washed buildings, concrete, signs, and other special equipment all the time...
-Well the short of it was once I got him away from my coach, no tip, but I paid him full price - and suggested he learn to use a 'softer touch' with his power washer - I spent a good hour the next day, re-caulking areas that he'd blown of caulking with is power washer. (Suspect he considered it to be bubble gum on a sidewalk.). And, it was a good week later, that we tried the awning over the door - nope, not working. (Exactly where I saw him leaning down and spraying the door awning, and MOTOR, at full force.)

====

So to me, no power washer on our coach again, unless I'm holding the trigger to the washer. And I do have a 1500 or so PSI Ryobi(SP?) power washer. Have used it several times around our vacation home.

But for me, especially on the roof, I go old school. Take out my bucket, medium stiff brush, Dawn, and a hose. Soak the roof well, and then go over all areas with the medium brush, after dipping into the bucket. Cut grease and crime. And then rinse well. My water hose runs thru a CR Spotless. I then get down off of the roof, and also carefully hit the rails that I may have missed, and sides of the coach too, with a fresh batch of Dawn on a 'fine' brush on the end of my telescoping pole. Then rise well with the CR Spotless water. And let dry.

Usually the next day, after I know all old was and grime has been cut some by the alkaline of the Dawn - I'll then spend a good hour touching up areas of the paint that need attention. Use a fine cleaning abrasive if needed, but usually fine that a magic eraser will remove remaining blemishes on the paint. I then clean that area well, with a 25% solution of white vinegar and distilled water. I follow up this spot cleaning, by a full coat of wax on the coach rails, caps and sides. (I won't go into what I use, and where, as wax or nano or synthetic or whatever is used by many, is a different topic for sure!).

We have a fiberglass roof. Properly prepped and coated with Buskote. This is one of the key reason's I now (Wish I had earlier!) get 'very micro' in topping with any 'RV Washing Crew' working on my coach, in between my yearly deep cleaning and protection application. I was very lucky, the Buskote was not on the roof when this 'gent' hit it at I'm assuming 3000 PSI...

And note: At least for our coach, the door awning motor fix is a PITA. Especially since the door awning is 'cute' and if no wind is in the mix, will help a tad in the rain - but is useless most of the time for shading, or windy rains!

OK, rambling's by Smitty are 'Off!'.

Best to all, travel safe, be very careful with power washers...
Smitty

[RM Art]

Originally Posted by Smitty77

Timely topic!

We have a fiberglass roof. Properly prepped and coated with Buskote. This is one of the key reason's I now (Wish I had earlier!) get 'very micro' in topping with any 'RV Washing Crew' working on my coach, in between my yearly deep cleaning and protection application. I was very lucky, the Buskote was not on the roof when this 'gent' hit it at I'm assuming 3000 PSI...

Best to all, travel safe, be very careful with power washers...
Smitty

Bus Kote adhere to clean EPDM roof membrane - do you know?? I looked it up and no mention in it if it holds to EPDM.

[NeilV]

Originally Posted by Dav L

"My coach has a hole in the fiberglass roof from the pressure washing professionals that detailed my coach"
Really??
My power washer is 3800 psi 4gpm. Even with a tight tip that would be very difficult to do. You would have to hold the wand motionless for a half hour.
If there is any interest, I can do a test on a piece of FRP tomorrow.

What makes you think pro's use a small homeowners 3,800 psi unit that only shoots 4 gpm?

Think 5,000 to 8,000 psi and 5 to 10 gpm on a heavy duty truck mount pro unit and more if they have an industrial unit. Time is money and they want to get done very, very quickly.

[botiemad]

Originally Posted by helopilot880

DW bought me a pressure washer. I'm thinking of using it to was roof and sides of RV. The roof is rubber and the sides are Gel-coated. Has anyone used a pressure washer to clean their RV, and, if so what do I need to be concerned about?

Best tool I've ever purchased. On my 3rd one. Although not really necessary for rinsing off after washing, it is worth it's weight in tool boxes when it comes to wheel wells, mudflaps, radiators, AC condensers, and cleaning areas before maintenance and mechanical work.

[RM Art]

Originally Posted by NeilV

What makes you think pro's use a small homeowners 3,800 psi unit that only shoots 4 gpm?

Think 5,000 to 8,000 psi and 5 to 10 gpm on a heavy duty truck mount pro unit and more if they have an industrial unit. Time is money and they want to get done very, very quickly.

Yup! What Neil says...

Carving a hole in FRP taint no problem for commercial pressure washer. They can carve holes in concrete and bricks too! I know, I've been a masonry, concrete and tile contractor... for over 4 decades.

When you see commercial washer employees doing sidewalks and/or parking lots - notice they move the wand pretty quickly, keeping it back a ways from surface and usually using a "splayed spray" tip. Otherwise, they'd dig a hole to China that the boss must repair... and... they'd probably get fired!!

[RobinDella]

If you use pressure washer, also just use common sense. I use one all the time.