Wanting to RV. Class C or pull behind?

[icw2gotra]

BTW didn't mean to digress from the discussion of Class C vs. TT; really enjoyed all the inputs, considerations, feedback, caveats, etc. We are on the other side of the teeter-totter: we have a Class C and wonder if we'd enjoy traveling in a pickup/SUV + TT more. So many pros and cons!

[Unplanned Tourist]

Originally Posted by icw2gotra

BTW didn't mean to digress from the discussion of Class C vs. TT; really enjoyed all the inputs, considerations, feedback, caveats, etc. We are on the other side of the teeter-totter: we have a Class C and wonder if we'd enjoy traveling in a pickup/SUV + TT more. So many pros and cons!

PRO- You will love having the TV to tour around in.

CON- You will hate having to find a place to pull over, park, get out, walk back to your TT, go potty, get out, walk back to the TV and merge with traffic.

That's my 2 cents worth, for what it's worth.

[ChuckNCin]

Originally Posted by 77Travco

Class A all the way...

What mileage do you get with the v10 towing the pickup?

[Lez8ma]

We have a class C. Perfect, if its hot the ac is running and the living area is cooled. If its cold its heated when we pull into a rest area or what ever. Coach batteries charged by the engine as we go down the road. The bathroom is 15 feet away in the same vehicle. My wife can use it and I don’t have to stop. We pull a little car behind when needed. The class C doesn’t even know its there! No screwing around hooking up a bumper pull or going into a hot trailer or fifth wheel when taking a break. For us its a easy choise.

[RobfromLA]

Hello all , happy class C owner here.
If you’re traveling alone in your truck with a tow behind pull in somewhere to sleep you have to get out of your truck and go back and lock yourself in camper. if anybody is watching they know you’re alone and now locked in a box behind your truck.
If you’re in a motorhome you pull in turn the lights off done. If somebody’s watching they have no idea if there’s 1 or 10 people inside. The way the world is now it’s something to think about. Personally I chose a class C with a tow behind enclosed for my motorcycles and Jeep. I feel much more secure traveling around the country alone. Spare vehicles tools and fuel.
Another plus if you’re driving your motorhome and you hit a huge traffic jam hours+ you just slide in the back go to the bathroom make a sandwich and look out the windshield for movement. Again if you’re alone everybody will know it if you’re in a truck with a towable. Very vulnerable. Just some things to think about.
Another big plus for the class C for me is the big visor like overhang on the front. Really cuts down on the sun glare its great storage and protects the windshield from weather. It’s a better driving experience in a class c imho

[tpaul]

Originally Posted by icw2gotra

tpaul, is your tow vehicle for the ORV TT a Yukon SUV? Got my attention, as I see the trailer gvwr is over 8000 lbs. We are thinking of making a change from small Class C to TT, but prefer SUV to truck. Wary of claimed SUV max tow weight ratings vs. real-world limits and risks of losing control. What's your weight breakdown (cargo, tongue, trailer), how does the Yukon handle this TT, and did you have to do any special mods? Thank you!

Sorry I missed your post earlier. My 2019 OutdoorsRV 21RD (no slideouts, not made anymore?) has a much lower GVWR of 6995 so even loaded at around 6600 I come in below the Tow Rating of my Yukon of 8100. (Cargo capacity is listed as 1683 but realistically its less since they determine original dry weight at the factory without LP tanks, etc.) And with a tongue weight of 980 I'm just below the WDH hitch Tongue Weight Rating of 1000. Well inside the limits for all axles and the Yukon GCWR.

So, given all that, I'm pretty happy with how my Yukon handles the trailer. Numerous trips to the east coast and to Northern California in the last few years. Surprisingly good in winds and the suck from semis but I would still like to have the longer wheelbase of the Yukon XL. It's my wife's daily driver and she vetoed that. Plus would have been difficult to squeeze into our garage. No special mods but if I do a lot more mountain passes I'm tempted to add an additional transmission cooler to the "Combicooler" arrangement that GM has gone to for the towing package. But if I ever get a bigger or longer trailer will likely switch to a pickup.

Looking at the ratings for the newer Tahoe/Yukon models you don't gain much of anything in towing capacity or cargo capacity (payload). Plus you lose ground clearance. And actually if you look at Sierra 150, RAM or Ford F 150, they claim higher towing capacity but if you look at their cargo capacity (payload) they're not much higher than what I currently have. Only advantage would be the wheelbase. You'd have to go to a 250/2500 to get significant increase in cargo capacity. Can be fairly important if you have 4 people and lots of stuff in the bed plus tongue weight and the weight of a heavy weight distributing hitch. Interestingly, looking at a Ford Expedition Max, with the right axle ratio you can get 9000 towing capacity and 900 hitch rating. Ford doesn't like to give details about cargo capacity. Usually have to look at the door sticker for each individual model.

Hope that helps. Any other questions send me an email.

[icw2gotra]

Hey TPaul, thanks for the excellent information! It's good to know the real-world limits of what an SUV can handle. I especially take note of the wheelbase choice on the Yukon.

We're just about convinced that we'll need a truck to pull whatever TT we land on as it will likely be heavier than your ORV. In the spirit of this thread (Class C or TT) your earlier reference to "travel style" made a lot of sense, everyone's got a unique set of preferences, tendencies, requirements, logistics... so we have many factors to consider in making the choice.

Thanks again!

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by icw2gotra

Hey TPaul, thanks for the excellent information! It's good to know the real-world limits of what an SUV can handle. I especially take note of the wheelbase choice on the Yukon.

We're just about convinced that we'll need a truck to pull whatever TT we land on as it will likely be heavier than your ORV. In the spirit of this thread (Class C or TT) your earlier reference to "travel style" made a lot of sense, everyone's got a unique set of preferences, tendencies, requirements, logistics... so we have many factors to consider in making the choice.

Thanks again!

Years ago We [wife & I] had the same conversation about a trailer [5th or bumper pull] vs a class C or A.. I asked a simple question.. How long can You "Hold It" if I cannot find a place to pull over and park so You can get into the trailer to go potty?".. End of that conversation..

[Homeby5]

We pondered the same question last year. Looked at both and we decided to go the TT route. Ordered the new F350 and it came in last month. Now looking for a TT.
The reason we decided on a TT was simple...less cost and less maintenance. I needed a newer vehicle anyway because my E150 van has gotten old. So, the cost of the truck was a wash. That left me deciding on a $50k TT or a $150K MH. Also, I don't have to worry about another drive train to maintain. Anyone who is handy should be able to maintain a TT themselves without shop time.
Having said that...my friend has a Class C and I can see the appeal. As others have said, everything is contained. But most people end up pulling something behind thier MH anyway so IMO...you have that hassle either way.

[Tuscany3680]

Okay people keep bringing up less maintenance cost for pull behind. Okay once again based on experience and since no one told me before I bought my 2020.5 North Point 383FKWS; Really, in less than 4000 miles I had to replace 2 tires and an axle. Turns out if you are driving many miles it’s going to be pricey, unless you can do the work yourself.

When I noticed unusual wear on my rear axle tire, I took it in (1 month after buying it, almost 4000 miles), I was advised the axle was bent an obviously I needed a new tire. Worst part I had to change the bad tire before I took it in so I didn’t have a blowout on the way in. So two tires and axle. I then was advised I need to have the axles inspected and serviced approximately every 1500 miles at approximate cost of $300 each inspection, now factor in I drive up to 20,000 miles during my 6-8 month Rv drives we are talking a chunk of change. Also they push the weight on two 7000 lb axles. They put two axles on a 46’ trailer weighing 16,900 lbs.Shouldn’t they be at least 8,000 lb axles and a triple axle trailer.

Oh and let’s not forget the recent “Do not use” recall for the propane regulator which they do not have so you have to wait for it and in the recall notice they tell you not to use the unit until the repair is done.

So less expensive? Maybe if you are going from point A to point B and parking it for 6-8 months.

Oh I never left the Highway and no, never hit a pothole either. Paved Highway all the way.

[Marine359]

We’ve owned all manner of MH in the last 40 years except DP. We really liked our MHs when we had a family; so convenient and comfy One thing they all had in common; they all required far more maintenance and repairs than the two TTs we’ve owned, not to mention the outrageous licensing and insurance for MH. There’s virtually nothing I can’t fix or maintain on our TT. Not so on MH. A year ago in October, our hairdresser and us both bought new rvs. They a MB based C, us a small TT. Since then, they took one long trip, and had serious problems while on the road. Their beautiful New MH has been in the shop 3 times already, and they just called to tell us they had to cancel their planned long trip to FL. They must wait 4 weeks to get their MH into the dealer for warranty repairs and are being told, there is no guarantee on how long it will take to get parts that may be needed for the repair. Plus they have to deal with the MB recall. In the meantime, we leisurely toured coastal Maine, and the entirety of the southeast, putting on over 9,000 miles and 50 days camping. Never a problem that I didn’t cause myself. I’m not saying that this scenario is true for all MHs, certainly not true for many. But there’s the risk, and we’ve met many on the road who have whined about MH repair issues. With not very many bullets left in my gun, I’d rather be on the road than stuck at home waiting to pay a big repair bill on my MH.

[twogypsies]

Originally Posted by Marine359

I’m not saying that this scenario is true for all MHs, certainly not true for many. But there’s the risk, and we’ve met many on the road who have whined about MH repair issues.

Funny. We full-timed and traveled constantly, including Alaska, and in 8 yr. never had a motorhome repair.... just regular maintenance. For maintenance, we called and made an appt. in the direction we were traveling. Arrived on the day and finished on the day.

[Marty G.]

My wife and I tried to decide for years. It’s almost impossible. Chicken, egg, Ford, Chevy...you’ll wonder about it forever until one day you just decide to do it and quit worrying about it. How old are you? (Rhetorical). Travel trailers are more physical work to connect, disconnect, and level. Then again, if you pull a tow dolly with the class C, that can be significant work too. We finally went with a 15 year old class A. A fan clutch went out.... 6K$ later got it fixed. That would’ve been about $400 in a class C, and non existent on a travel trailer. 6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other. If money is much of an issue, I assure you, the travel trailer is the best way. Class C’s are more expensive to upkeep, and older diesel Class A’s cost a Ton to keep up. Start cheaper, I’d say, you can upgrade at any time.

[AlfaBaz]

Originally Posted by Marty G.

My wife and I tried to decide for years. It’s almost impossible. Chicken, egg, Ford, Chevy...you’ll wonder about it forever until one day you just decide to do it and quit worrying about it. How old are you? (Rhetorical). Travel trailers are more physical work to connect, disconnect, and level. Then again, if you pull a tow dolly with the class C, that can be significant work too. We finally went with a 15 year old class A. A fan clutch went out.... 6K$ later got it fixed. That would’ve been about $400 in a class C, and non existent on a travel trailer. 6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other. If money is much of an issue, I assure you, the travel trailer is the best way. Class C’s are more expensive to upkeep, and older diesel Class A’s cost a Ton to keep up. Start cheaper, I’d say, you can upgrade at any time.

What he said!