Waste tank cable lube

[chunker]

The Raptor has 4 waste tanks, 2 black and 2 grey. I'm referring in this post to the forward black tank that services the main bath toilet. The waste tank T handle is in the wet bay. The "cable" is a solid core flex rod with a sheath several feet in length winding it's way down to the black tank gate valve. The cable is very difficult to push/pull and due to it's position, directly under the water hose connection, gets some corrosion. I've tried spraying the exposed part of the cable when it's pulled with silicone, teflon, and penetrating spray with less than satisfactory results. What would be the best lubricant to us? Since it's "downhill" from the T handle to the gate valve, I should be able to remove the nut which secures the T handle assembly to the wet bay wall and get some lube in the cable and have it run down the length. I have looked at some cable lube assemblies that clamp on a woven wire type cable, bicycle brake/shifter cables, but that doesn't apply to this type cable.

EDIT the grey cable was replaced under warranty right away because the grey waste gate valve was broken and the cable the dealer put on far superior to what the factory used. That might be an option if I can't get a proper lubricant to work.

[Rocky Larson]

Are you sure its the cable/flex rod that is the part that needs lube. Perhaps its the seal on the gate valve itself.
Many, including I, have installed a ZERK fitting on the bottom or side of the valve housing and apply an occasional shot or two of grease. 16 years still easy to pull and not a drop of bypass.
Added grease fittings to dump valves on 42' Tour -- very smooth operation.

[chunker]

Originally Posted by Rocky Larson

Are you sure its the cable/flex rod that is the part that needs lube. Perhaps its the seal on the gate valve itself.
Many, including I, have installed a ZERK fitting on the bottom or side of the valve housing and apply an occasional shot or two of grease. 16 years still easy to pull and not a drop of bypass.
Added grease fittings to dump valves on 42' Tour -- very smooth operation.

Well it could be contributed to by the gate valve itself but I can feel roughness and see corrosion on the solid part of the rod as it goes into the back of the wet bay. I got impatient, pulled the back basement wall off and removed the jamb nut off the "cable holder" as it goes through the wall. Got some 0W-20 left over from a recent car oil change and lubed up the shaft, pushed/pulled/wiped several time and it's a bit smoother BUT not easy. Strapped the T handle so it's vertical and now feeding gradually some oil into the cable. The entire assembly is somewhat protected from the elements either in the area behind the basement or down below with insulation mat and coroplast. The best valve design was the motorhome, Itasca Horizon where the T handles attached to a solid rod direct to the gate valve. No crappy cables.

[keymastr]

I have solid rods on mine but they get stiff too. The valve needs lube no matter what type of mechanism t has to push/pull it open.

[IC2]

Both Bristol and Valterra dump valves use a stainless steel core rod, not a cable. You can try squirting some lube down the end fitting but that will seldom 'cure' any sticking problem. Our 5er has Valterra valves, identified by a stamped name on the pull handle



I decided when the black tank valve took literally all of my 200 pounds leaning on the handle to open it, decided it was time to get dirty.


A super tank cleaning was first on the agenda, then it was time to pull down the Coroplast. The first thing I found is that OEM did a really crappy job of routing the way too long 'cable'. The next thing I found was that after removing the cable from the valve was that even with Vise Grips, it was dang hard to open that valve.


OK, after that, I replaced the valve as well as the adjoining gray tank valve. Taking the component parts out, found that the black valve was jammed full of .... crud. I replaced the two valves, relocated the black pull to operate in a shorter, more direct line and now it works easily. I also run yearly about a half gallon of cheap vegetable oil through the black tank to keep things lubed. I also siliconed the pull core.


NO, vegetable oil will NOT hurt those valve seals.


Worked for me, hope it works for others.

[Dutch Star Don]

Install electric drain valves and eliminate the issue.

Yu say that your water connection drips water and causes some issues. Here's a tip. Buy a brass water hose quick connect. Use pliers to install the mail end into the water connection with a new grommet. Attach the female end to your water supply hose. Now it's a quick connect with no leaks.

[Tom Boles]

Go to a motorcycle shop or check online for a cable lube fitting. It clamps to whatever end of the sheath you have access to and makes a seal that allows you to squirt chain lube, WD-40, whathaveyou into the cable between the core and the sheath. This should help.

Cheers!

[IC2]

Originally Posted by Tom Boles

Go to a motorcycle shop or check online for a cable lube fitting. It clamps to whatever end of the sheath you have access to and makes a seal that allows you to squirt chain lube, WD-40, whathaveyou into the cable between the core and the sheath. This should help.

Cheers!

Tell us what brand(s) and how it works 'cause they will not on my Valterra cables. I have two different designs and they will not fit around the cable extension without removing it from the mount.

[egwilly]

Ours was hard to pull and close due to their 4 foot length. I squirted some silicone spray on the slice valve itself, and what a difference. I even tried some olive oil in the grey tank to see if that would help. Nope.

I might try the zerk fitting trick if I am ever under the trailer again for some other repair. On my last trailer I drilled a hole in the top of the valve and used to squirt lube in that hole. Then seal it with a screw and washer. That helped, but the valves were accessible on that trailer.