|
03-12-2021, 07:39 AM
|
#1
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 98
|
Water Heater Failing?
I have a Bighorn fifth wheel with a standard Atwood water heater. Like all of these devices, the water is heated with either propane or electricity — or both at the same time if I'm in a hurry. Recently however I've noticed that when using shore power electricity the water isn't quite as hot as the week before and it doesn't last quite as long. I've noticed this deteriorating condition every morning for the last couple of weeks. Is it time to replace the water heater before it fails completely?
__________________
2016 Bighorn 3575EL
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
03-12-2021, 07:49 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,848
|
No reason to replace the Water Heater....replace bad parts
My 2007 Atwood still in service working quite well
Does it heat correctly using just propane??
Propane and Electric use SAME t-stat/eco for temp controls
So if gas heats...then t-stat is good
If NOT----replace t-stat/eco (they come as a pair)
Do you drain/flush water heater routinely?
Tucson water is VERY Hard...scale/calcium can build up inhibiting heat transfer and especially on the element reducing it's heating capability
Time for new element??
One last thing...
120VAC to element is triggered by a DC Relay (Yellow wire from circuit board)
12VDC to relay closes it...then the 120VAC goes to element
The 120VAC Terminals get hot due to loose connections...insulation melts/wires don't make good contact
DC Relay is inside that protective cover where element is ---backside of WH Tank
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
|
|
|
03-12-2021, 10:03 AM
|
#3
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,713
|
Good advice from Old Biscuit. It's unlikely (but not impossible) that the electric heat element is only partially functional. However, extreme contamination of the heater element by hard water deposits is one of those rare things that could do that. After testing on propane as suggested, my next step would be to pull out the electric heat element and check for corrosion. Maybe just go ahead and replace it, since they aren't real expensive (it's a fairly standard bolt-in 1440 watt element, often available in hardware stores, Lowes, Depot, etc).).
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
|
|
|
03-12-2021, 10:19 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: On the continental divide
Posts: 2,622
|
Ed,
Pull the blow out valve, close the bypass and dump 3 gallons of vinegar in and top off with water. Let it sit for a day and a night, then pull the drain plug and hose her out thru the blow out valve hole.
You will be surprised how much white crud you get out of her.
Mike in Colorado
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37c, 8.1 gasser, (Jezebel) Ultra RV ECM / TCM, plugs wires, and rear track bar, PPE deep Tx pan w/ temp gage, Bilstein's, Sailun's & Sumo's all round, pushed by a 2002 Grand Caravan, on a Master Tow Dolly OR a WR-250 on a rail.
|
|
|
03-12-2021, 07:36 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,848
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
Good advice from Old Biscuit. It's unlikely (but not impossible) that the electric heat element is only partially functional. However, extreme contamination of the heater element by hard water deposits is one of those rare things that could do that. After testing on propane as suggested, my next step would be to pull out the electric heat element and check for corrosion. Maybe just go ahead and replace it, since they aren't real expensive (it's a fairly standard bolt-in 1440 watt element, often available in hardware stores, Lowes, Depot, etc).).
|
Atwood uses a 1400W element and they screw into the tank
**Very Old Models had a bolt on but that was discontinued many years ago
Suburban uses the 1440W and they screw in also
1 1/2" thin walled socket needed
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
|
|
|
03-13-2021, 05:14 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 2,820
|
Here's a pdf that may help you
__________________
Vera & Ken
1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial, RR8S Chassis
Cummins 6C8.3 mechanical engine, 325HP, 3060 Allison
Towing 2014 Ford Explorer
|
|
|
03-13-2021, 05:37 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 110
|
Yep, as posted only a couple of parts that can be bad, easy fix.
__________________
2@lo8
|
|
|
03-14-2021, 12:19 PM
|
#8
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,713
|
Quote:
Atwood uses a 1400W element and they screw into the tank
**Very Old Models had a bolt on but that was discontinued many years ago
|
Old Biscuit is right - all of them in the last 25+ years are screw-in elements. The bolt-in elements are almost ancient history. I stand corrected! Regardless, they are standard elements available anywhere water heater parts are sold. Nothing unique to an RV.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
|
|
|
03-14-2021, 09:07 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,848
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
Old Biscuit is right - all of them in the last 25+ years are screw-in elements. The bolt-in elements are almost ancient history. I stand corrected! Regardless, they are standard elements available anywhere water heater parts are sold. Nothing unique to an RV.
|
And cheaper at the Big Box Hardware stores
__________________
I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
|
|
|
03-15-2021, 06:15 AM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
And cheaper at the Big Box Hardware stores
|
6 bucks at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5024/205681007
The socket is $7 : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5016/205680998.
Way years back and several trailers ago, I needed to replace a gas valve. That wasn't as inexpensive but a LOT less then a new HW heater.
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|