Winterizing a Class C RV

[FriscoRV]

Good morning to all. Just logged in for the first time. This looks like a good forum to be a part of. We purchased a used Class C RV this year, 2016 Jayco Melbourne 24K on a Mercedes/Sprinter chassis. Getting ready to winterize the rig for a Colorado winter outside. The rig won't be stored locally but a one hour drive away at a warmer location. I can easily remove the couch battery but not the chassis battery. Checked with MB tech support and the 1st tech say to just disconnect the battery via the isolating switch and the rig should be fine. The 2nd tech says start and idle the rig for 10 to 15 minutes every month or bite the bullet and remove the battery. Has anyone else dealt with a similar situation. Thanks in advance for any assistance.



FriscoRV

[kenandterry]

When you say warmer climate.....do you mean indoors?

IF, and I repeat IF your batteries are healthy and fully charged before storage, and ALL parasitic drains are removed by a switch or disconnecting the cables, your batteries will be fine. Starting your engine for just a few minutes every so often, does more harm than good if things don’t get fully up to their optimum operating temperature. Leave it alone until the new season.

[FriscoRV]

Thanks for your reply. RV will be stored outside. Winter where we live can get down to -20 F during the cold season. Where we are storing the RV only gets down to 5 F. Hence the move to the lower elevation and warmer temperature.


FriscoRV

[Persistent]

The difference between -20 and -5 is minor if batteries are fully charged and disconnected. Flooded cell batteries in good condition would be good for about 6 months. Check terminal voltage at the battery. Recharge 14 hours before voltage drops to 12.4 volts.

Charging for storage or recharging when voltage reaches 12.4 requires 14 hours at 13.6 volts. Starting the engine takes a big hunk of charge out of the batteries. Running the engine for 30 minutes will lubricate the engine, but the batteries need to be returned to full charge. Sulfation and freezing are the issue.

Battery University https://batteryuniversity.com/

How does the Lead Acid Battery Work? https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...ased_batteries

Charging lead acid batteries https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...d_acid_battery

AGM https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/..._glass_mat_agm

How to Charge and When to Charge? https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...o_charge_table

How to Store Batteries https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...tore_batteries

Summary of Do’s and Don’ts https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/..._battery_table

[Gary RVRoamer]

This is a good-better-best kind of discussion. The very best practice may not yield any better results than the least best, depending on the conditions.

Odds are the coach battery disconnect switch does not totally disconnect all loads. CO or LP detectors often remain connected, leveling jacks & slide motors may also be powered (though not necessarily drawing noticeable current). Physically removing the battery ground terminal wire will absolutely prevent any of that stuff from drawing current.

The batteries will self-discharge are a VERY slow rate if all loads are off, so they probably remain above 50% charge (12.0v) for 5-6 months. If so, there is little need to run the engine or the generator to recharge in the interim. Ideally the batteries should stay above 12.4v, which is about 80% charge. Whether yours will stay that high is something that only experience will tell.


A battery at 40% charge (about 11.9v) will freeze at 5 F., so you are on the hairy edge if the battery voltage drops to 50%. This tech article from Trojan Battery may help you out.
https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/WP...orage_0512.pdf