Winterizing Antifreeze- all the same?

[Indy Glenn]

Originally Posted by lynnmor

There are two types of RV antifreeze, the cheap stuff with alcohol and the good kind like was always used in past years. Alcohol can evaporate out and cause some degradation of soft plumbing parts. I use the good stuff, found it at Lowes last year.

Good stuff??......Please tell me about it......I was not aware of any other "better" grade of RV anti freeze as I would use it.

Thank, you,

g

[keymastr]

I don't think there is much difference in brands but the concentration of water is probably higher in the cheaper brand allowing for the difference in rated temperatures. Since it only takes a gallon to winterize the difference in cost is less than $.50 so why bother worrying about the added cost. Whether it is better or not I couldn't say but maybe I will do a test between the brands this winter when I am bored.

As I understand it the pink stuff gets slushy but does not freeze solid and therefore can move preventing the damage. It is doubtful that I will see temps low enough to make a meaningful determination though. Zero is about as low as we go most years and only then for a day or two. This last winter was unusual, looked like Manitoba here for a couple months.

[lynnmor]

Originally Posted by Indy Glenn

Good stuff??......Please tell me about it......I was not aware of any other "better" grade of RV anti freeze as I would use it.

Thank, you,

g

One of a number of sites to learn about RV antifreeze: What you need to know about RV Anti-Freeze - J&M Camper Sales - Maine Camper DealerJ&M Camper Sales – Maine Camper Dealer

[MTSam]

Hi guys! We gotter done!

Went pretty smooth except I got the valves backwards on the drain low points oops!

Jarwiebe, check this out. I too had never seen their RV Antifreeze.

Thanks emuller1. That's just what we did!
Keymastr, you bet! Especially now that I have that dripline right lol.

Nlovnit, depends where you are for both. My particular area of Montana has been literally 'the coldest place on earth' although it doesn't happen often... shipping goods in here gets passed onto consumers, although this was very fair by comparison.

Indy Glenn, we're having fun learning little nuisances yes?

Lynnmor !!!! Loved reading that article, so glad you shared!!!

Ok helping our neighbors (who just picked up a loved RV) and picked up the other jug. So I got pics before they decided to return for the other stuff we used - Sta-bil.

Glad my blonde headed questions are helping others.

Sam

[NLOVNIT]

If it gets lower than -50, I shouldn't be living where I am.

Interesting, I see the 1st ingredient in the STA-BIL (& probably the more expensive) brand is Water. Doesn't the 1st ingredient listed mean that's what there's the most of?

Lori-

[keymastr]

Well, yes the first ingredient is what there is the most of however the real story is that the cheap stuff has alcohol as the first ingredient and alcohol can soften the plastics in the plumbing system. No alcohol in the Sta-bil.

The reason water is listed ahead of propylene glycol is because it needs to be a certain ratio of water to glycol to be most effective. Anti-freeze without any water will freeze at a higher temperature than it does with water

[Indy Glenn]

Originally Posted by lynnmor

One of a number of sites to learn about RV antifreeze: What you need to know about RV Anti-Freeze - J&M Camper Sales - Maine Camper DealerJ&M Camper Sales – Maine Camper Dealer

lynnmor - Thanks for the great article.......I enjoyed reading it and learned.

Originally Posted by MTSam

Hi guys! We gotter done!

Indy Glenn, we're having fun learning little nuisances yes?

Glad my blonde headed questions are helping others.

Sam

Glad you Got-R-Done Sam.......always a good feeling of accomplishment!!

And one thing you'll learn Sam, about RVing and the equipment is, you'll never stop learning, which is why I always have my morning coffee perusing iRV2!!

Now I'm going to have to look for that Sta-Bil stuff!! LOL Amazon - here I come!!

(Hi Lori!!!!!!)

g

[keymastr]

Walmart had Sta-bil

[Kro1957]

I had a conversation with a longtime friend who is the Manager of Large RV Service Sales store. He has been in the business his entire life and tells me that the hundreds of RV's they have, they blow all the lines clear and never had a problem.

So that is what I began doing. Open the low drain points, open faucets, let everything drain. Open the Hot Water heater plug, then close all faucets and replace drain plug on hot water. I use a clamp on air spicket that attaches to the Air blow out plug. The plug goes in your city water input. I set my compressor on a lower setting of about 25lbs. Close off the bypass system on the hot water heater. Then open the faucets furthest away from your inlet. with the compressor running I regulate each source, hot then cold back and forth until absolutely no mist or anything but pure air is coming through. Then I work my way closer to the next fixture, even run a rinse and drain cycle on the Washer. Lastly is the outside shower. After all is done I repeat the faucet water purge, skipping the hot water heater portion as it has already been done. Drain all the p-traps and put 1c in each including shower, stool and about 2Qt in the washer and run a rinse cycle to keep pump free and clear of water. Also run through the RV pump. Takes me about an hour.

[keymastr]

How do you drain the traps? I just assumed it would be ok to just pour it down the drain and fill the traps that way. Probably takes less your way but this way it would put some in the bottoms of the tanks. Do you operate the dump valves at all with some pink in there to keep the valves from freezing up or am I over thinking that?

[MTSam]

Originally Posted by Kro1957

I had a conversation with a longtime friend who is the Manager of Large RV Service Sales store. He has been in the business his entire life and tells me that the hundreds of RV's they have, they blow all the lines clear and never had a problem.

Ok but WHERE in the country? That makes a big difference -- at least in my opinion.

[MTSam]

Originally Posted by keymastr

How do you drain the traps? I just assumed it would be ok to just pour it down the drain and fill the traps that way. Probably takes less your way but this way it would put some in the bottoms of the tanks. Do you operate the dump valves at all with some pink in there to keep the valves from freezing up or am I over thinking that?

Keymastr, not that we are doing it 'right'... It's very apparent we are first timers.. but we did put it in our release valves. We also poured some down each drain into the p traps. My understanding is, it will eventually 'wash out' when we put a fresh tank of water in the fresh tank and do a full system flush...

Maybe more experienced members can further educate...

[Off Road]

Originally Posted by Kro1957

I had a conversation with a longtime friend who is the Manager of Large RV Service Sales store. He has been in the business his entire life and tells me that the hundreds of RV's they have, they blow all the lines clear and never had a problem.

So that is what I began doing. Open the low drain points, open faucets, let everything drain. Open the Hot Water heater plug, then close all faucets and replace drain plug on hot water. I use a clamp on air spicket that attaches to the Air blow out plug. The plug goes in your city water input. I set my compressor on a lower setting of about 25lbs. Close off the bypass system on the hot water heater. Then open the faucets furthest away from your inlet. with the compressor running I regulate each source, hot then cold back and forth until absolutely no mist or anything but pure air is coming through. Then I work my way closer to the next fixture, even run a rinse and drain cycle on the Washer. Lastly is the outside shower. After all is done I repeat the faucet water purge, skipping the hot water heater portion as it has already been done. Drain all the p-traps and put 1c in each including shower, stool and about 2Qt in the washer and run a rinse cycle to keep pump free and clear of water. Also run through the RV pump. Takes me about an hour.

I had thought of going this route but by the time you blow everything out, then put pink stuff in all the traps and then prime the pump with antifreeze, you might as well just run antifreeze through the system and save yourself some time. I would just blow things out and not worry about the antifreeze at all if it wasn't for the pump. I don't know how to be sure the pump doesn't still have a little water in it.

[MTSam]

Hey Off Road.
If I lived south of here I might consider less. But on the other hand -- a few bucks and minimal time vs issues and bigger bucks stalling the get out and go... well for us at this far north, I'm starting the winter season this way. We constantly hear of lived in homes with broken pipes up here. And after living in the Deep South doing hurricanes we understand water damage all too well.

Good luck in your choices and may we all roll come early spring. 🤠