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Old 09-15-2020, 08:05 AM   #1
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Winterizing tip

I decided to winterize my coach yesterday. Years past I have blown out the lines before using the pink RV anti freeze. This year I opted to just use the anti freeze. I poured 5 gallons of antifreeze into my fresh water tank, turned the pump on and proceeded to open all the faucets one at a time like I normally do.
After I was done I thought about the line which the city water connection attaches to. Did that line get winterized? With the pump off I depressed the check valve in the connector and sure enough clear water came out.
I turned the pump back on and then depressed the check valve again. A small amount of water came out then a steady flow of pink anti freeze started coming out.
Now I know there is no chance water was left in the line which could freeze throughout the winter months.
In my case the city water line connects into and feeds the cold water line to the outside shower faucet. The city line is only a foot or so long so it didn't take much to completely fill the line.
Some RV's might be different and the water line much longer or the line could sag somewhere and water could rest there. This may be something worth checking out on your RV.
Better to be safe than sorry.
Lynn
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:16 AM   #2
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Good tip. Never thought of it. This may be the first time we have to winterize this unit. We have a hose reel with 50' of hose as well as the connection between the reel and the system. Always have used air to blow the system before using pink and will continue to do so.
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:18 AM   #3
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And to add to this when depressing the check valve in the city water connection make sure almost all the pressure in the lines have been released as I have unseated the o ring when there was too much pressure left in the water lines.

Good point about making sure the city water connection is winterized.

Terry
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:18 AM   #4
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What did you do about the water heater?
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Old 09-15-2020, 09:03 AM   #5
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What did you do about the water heater?
I opened all the hot water faucets, removed the drain plug and let it drain. After the tank was drained I switched the intake line to "Bypass".
This tip wasn't meant to cover every step I take in winterizing. It's just an addition to.
Lynn
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:36 PM   #6
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It sounds like you were thorough about finding all water lines and flushing them with RV antifreeze.

There are two problems with putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank. One is, It is almost impossible to flush it out when you want to use the RV. Most tanks do not drain completely. So, you drain the antifreeze but some remains. You add water and drain again. There is still some left. This can go on for many flushes.

It is better to use the antifreeze suction line that is probably near the water pump. It usually has a valve like the one on the water heater. Turn it one way and suck from tank. Turn the other way and suck from antifreeze bottle. If your RV does not have an antifreeze suction line and valve, it can be added.

The water tank itself does not need antifreeze. Drain it. The small amount of remaining water will not damage anything.

The second problem is RV antifreeze looses its effectiveness when diluted. It depends on how much water was left in the tank when you added the antifreeze. It should not be a problem in Texas. It may be a problem in Iron Mountain Michigan.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:41 PM   #7
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My fresh water tank was entirely dry all camping season. We only visited FHU campgrounds. When I drain my tank there may be 1/2 cup of anything left in the tank. I totally fill the tank and rinse it out after using the anti freeze. I take my coach to my repair shop and fill the tank with chlorinated city water a couple times to rinse the tank out. I have a storm drain in the driveway so draining the tank is not an issue.
I understand what you're saying about a separate suction line. I have thought about adding a line to my line from the tank to the pump with the necessary valves but the line is well secured now and I really haven't wanted to disturb it. It's also a short run so trying to install everything necessary might be a challenge to get everything in there without a leak.
Even when we have used the fresh water tank when dry camping we have never drank the water from the tank. We take gallon jugs of water for coffee and cooking along with us which is drawn from our well. What little drinking water we consume is from bottled water. It's easier to have cold water when storing the bottled water in a cooler.
I like milk, water and beer. Not necessarily in that order though.
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Old 09-15-2020, 04:38 PM   #8
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I opened all the hot water faucets, removed the drain plug and let it drain. After the tank was drained I switched the intake line to "Bypass".
This tip wasn't meant to cover every step I take in winterizing. It's just an addition to.
Lynn
Thanks for the info. Question wasn't meant as criticism, just curious. Plan sounds good
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Old 09-16-2020, 03:44 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info. Question wasn't meant as criticism, just curious. Plan sounds good
I didn't take it as criticism. If you don't ask you wouldn't know.
Thanks,
Lynn
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Old 09-17-2020, 11:33 AM   #10
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After I was done I thought about the line which the city water connection attaches to. Did that line get winterized? With the pump off I depressed the check valve in the connector and sure enough clear water came out.
I turned the pump back on and then depressed the check valve again. A small amount of water came out then a steady flow of pink anti freeze started coming out. Lynn
Thanks for the tip where is this check valve you speak of? As far as I know, my pump is in the floor and not accessible without dropping the "extreme" under belly cover.
winter is getting close, and come Nov I think we will be done until after March. so time to start thinking of these things. New to TT life, never had to Winterize my tent. LOL
thx
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Old 09-17-2020, 11:51 AM   #11
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You will find the check valve where a water hose from the hook up post or your home faucet connects to your RV. If you have a pressure regulator attached to the female fitting you will have to remove it so you can see the check valve.
Simply push on the little stem you see and water will spew out.
Someone suggested you let some pressure out of the system before opening the check valve. While I've never had an issue there may be a possibility someone else might. Just crack a faucet open for a couple seconds to reduce the pressure some with the pump off then depress the check valve. Repeat if necessary until you see clear pink anti freeze. You will have to cycle the pump back on, shut the pump off and crack open a faucet before opening the check valve again.
Lynn
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Old 09-17-2020, 07:14 PM   #12
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I think I will hook the compressor up to the water inlet hose and blow everything out. After will fill with fluid.
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Old 09-18-2020, 05:09 AM   #13
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I usually blow the lines out with air then use the on-board pump to suck antifreeze directly from the jug it comes in. I have done it this way for years with several different rv's.


I never thought of it before but how can I be sure the line from the fresh water tank to the pump is free of water since I don't put the antifreeze in the water tank?
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:51 AM   #14
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I usually blow the lines out with air then use the on-board pump to suck antifreeze directly from the jug it comes in. I have done it this way for years with several different rv's.


I never thought of it before but how can I be sure the line from the fresh water tank to the pump is free of water since I don't put the antifreeze in the water tank?
It won't matter how you draw the anti freeze into the system. When the pump is turned on there will be pressure throughout the system including the line to the water intake. The check valve in the connection is the only thing holding the antifreeze back from spewing out the connection.
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