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Old 09-26-2020, 08:18 PM   #1
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Winterizing with air pressure

Do any of you winterize your water system using air pressure? If you do, how do you get all the water out of the water pump and water pump lines?
If I am thinking this right the air pressure will not go through the pump. Because when hooked up to the city water connection the water is not going through the pump. Am I over thinking this?Do I need to do something different to the pump and its water lines?
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Old 09-26-2020, 09:57 PM   #2
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I have been using air for years with no problems. Main thing I have found is opening everything up and blowing the lines then letting it set for awhile since the water still seems to be hiding somewhere and I can always force more out the low point drains if I give it about 15 minutes to collect. I usually do that a couple of times and have never had a problem. I also remove the filter bowl on the pump. My best option though is just to winter in Yuma AZ.
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Old 09-26-2020, 10:18 PM   #3
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Air can be blown through water or not enough air used to get the low points dried. I'm going to try the Arizona winterizing again.
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:20 AM   #4
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I use air to blow out the system, but then use RV antifreeze. It doesn't take very long to do and then I know the system will be safe for our Ohio winters. Usually we head south for a winter break, and it only takes about 15 minutes to flush out the system and reset the valves for the water heater. I just can't see taking the risk of only blowing out the system if you live in an area that temps regularly go below 32 degrees for long periods of time.....let alone a deep freeze when the temps hover around 0 degrees for several days or more.
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacouser View Post
Do any of you winterize your water system using air pressure? If you do, how do you get all the water out of the water pump and water pump lines?
If I am thinking this right the air pressure will not go through the pump. Because when hooked up to the city water connection the water is not going through the pump. Am I over thinking this?Do I need to do something different to the pump and its water lines?
You are thinking but I wouldn't call it overthinking. At the very least you could disconnect the line from your fresh water tank to your water pump and let it drain out. Better yet would be to use the pink anti freeze as a backup to the blowing out of the lines.
Personally I do both as a rule as I like having the anti freeze remain in the lines and valves to keep the valve washers pliable along with the flush valve in the toilet. I also run an adequate amount into each sink drain and the shower drain to prevent left over water in the "P" traps from freezing or drying out and letting any tank odors come back up into the coach.
Spending a few extra dollars and a few extra minutes while winterizing can pay huge dividends IMO.
Lynn
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:59 AM   #6
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We used to live in northern MN where winters are severe. I used air only usually unless we were on the road and had to winterize before returning home. For our rig, the water pump has a removable plastic cover that holds the pump water filter. After blowing the lines with air I remove that cover and leave it off.

Residual water from the fresh water tank and the pump and nearby lines drips out of the pump filter area for awhile. I just leave it off until next season. I then open the low point drain again for a bit, usually a tiny amount of water comes out close it and done.

Been doing it that way for many years never had a problem next season and only use pink for drains. If blowing the lines works in northern MN I suspect that if properly done it will work most anywhere.

A final step if one is concerned about residual water in the pump is to run the pump for a few seconds after removing the filter cover..i did that once after letting it drain awhile as described above and virtually nothing came out because of the way our pump is mounted it drains well. Some may not due to positioning and might benefit from a short running after draining the system.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:06 AM   #7
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I have winterized by using compressed in our various RV's air for over 50 years now, and if done correctly, you shouldn't have any problems. As far as the water pump goes, when the water tank is empty, I simply turn it on for a minute or two. It will pump air and that air will blow or suck out all water from the supply line, the filter housing and the line after the pump.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:04 AM   #8
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No worries. The line from tank to pump is open on the tank end and the tank is vented, so any water in that line drains back into the tank. Just drain the tank, blow out the lines, and then run the pump for several seconds so it pumps out any water still in the diaphragm.


People often fail to understand that freezing water isn't harmful unless it is trapped and has no place to expand. The pump intake line is neither sealed nor under pressure.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:04 AM   #9
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My wife does not me to use RV antifreeze in our motorhome potable water lines. I don't even try to argue with her. So I've been blowing the lines for +23 years. We live in TN so the winters aren't brutal. Might be another story if we lived in subzero temps.

I drain all the lines via the low point drain including the water tank and water heater. Remove the water filter.

I then hook my air compressor, set the pressure to ~50psi and turn it on. I then start with the outside faucet and open hot then cold letting it blow, leaving one open while I go inside and open one faucet. I'll cycle washing machine a couple of times. Go back outside and shut off the valve there, then back inside alternating between all the faucets until all just blow air, then back outside and to that faucet. I will run the water pump until it sucks air. I'll alternate faucets for ~45 minutes until everything blown out.

I unhook both lines on the water pump and let the lines drain.

I pull the fuse on the water pump and turn the breaker off for the water heater.

I also pour the RV antifreeze in the Pee Traps.


I'm sure I missed something but in the motorhome I have a step by step list that I follow while I'm doing this and then while I'm getting it ready to travel.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
My wife does not me to use RV antifreeze in our motorhome potable water lines. I don't even try to argue with her. So I've been blowing the lines for +23 years. We live in TN so the winters aren't brutal. Might be another story if we lived in subzero temps.

I drain all the lines via the low point drain including the water tank and water heater. Remove the water filter.

I then hook my air compressor, set the pressure to ~50psi and turn it on. I then start with the outside faucet and open hot then cold letting it blow, leaving one open while I go inside and open one faucet. I'll cycle washing machine a couple of times. Go back outside and shut off the valve there, then back inside alternating between all the faucets until all just blow air, then back outside and to that faucet. I will run the water pump until it sucks air. I'll alternate faucets for ~45 minutes until everything blown out.

I unhook both lines on the water pump and let the lines drain.

I pull the fuse on the water pump and turn the breaker off for the water heater.

I also pour the RV antifreeze in the Pee Traps.


I'm sure I missed something but in the motorhome I have a step by step list that I follow while I'm doing this and then while I'm getting it ready to travel.

Curious, why pull this fuse?
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:19 AM   #11
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Six in one hand. I use both now, drain, attach water pump fitting to a small hose, disconnect intake on pump, attach hose, blow some air through system, shut hot water bypass turn on pump with hose in Rv antifreeze gallon, run through lines. Turn on hot water bypass until you see antifreeze come out of tank, Plug add a bit more.

Don’t forget the water filter and line to fridge, toilet flush line, pee traps etc. don,t forget the holding tanks. There are tons of ideas if you search the forums from the past as well

Good luck

Works for me.
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Old 09-27-2020, 12:50 PM   #12
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I blow the lines well.

I also suck of antifreeze a bit into the pump to keep the impellers/seals lubricated.

Don't forget the intake screen/filter
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacouser View Post
Do any of you winterize your water system using air pressure? If you do, how do you get all the water out of the water pump and water pump lines?
If I am thinking this right the air pressure will not go through the pump. Because when hooked up to the city water connection the water is not going through the pump. Am I over thinking this?Do I need to do something different to the pump and its water lines?
Your thinking is correct . You can either run the pump dry ( NOTE : not always 100% effective ...don't ask ) or after blowing the lines , disconnect the pump lines to manually drain , blow the inlet line back to the fresh tank , and for true 100% protection , take the pump out of the RV and store in a heated area.
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Old 09-27-2020, 01:34 PM   #14
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Curious, why pull this fuse?

I pull the fuse so someone doesn't actually hit the switch and runs the pump dry for any length of time.

I also switch the water heater breaker off and also switch the switch on the water heater itself off. Again, so the water heater can't be turned on and burn the electric element out.

These are on the list so if I follow it in reverse order it reminds be the put fuses etc back in the run position.
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