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04-17-2021, 02:36 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 6
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Wiring a shunt on aux battery
Hi guys, been reading a lot and can't seem to find the info I'm looking for.
I have a started battery and an aux battery. Both are in the engine bay. The 2 battery positives are connected together through a solenoid to isolate the 2 batteries when vehicle is off. Both batteries negatives are going to chassis and engine block.
I wired the shunt on the aux battery between the battery negative post and the chassis ground. No other connection on the battery negative post. All other connections are done on the shunt terminal thar goes to the chassis.
I cannot seem to get a proper reading from the monitor. Aux battery is charged at 100% and after various hours with the fridge running and the engine on the monitor will show a gradual decrease and eventually read 0% but battery has plenty of charge in it and reading 12.6v from same monitor.
Have I wired something wrong or I just got a defective unit?
Thanks
h
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04-17-2021, 02:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Sarnialabad, Peoples Republik of Canuckistan
Posts: 2,225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranzUgan
Hi guys, been reading a lot and can't seem to find the info I'm looking for.
I have a started battery and an aux battery. Both are in the engine bay. The 2 battery positives are connected together through a solenoid to isolate the 2 batteries when vehicle is off. Both batteries negatives are going to chassis and engine block.
I wired the shunt on the aux battery between the battery negative post and the chassis ground. No other connection on the battery negative post. All other connections are done on the shunt terminal thar goes to the chassis.
I cannot seem to get a proper reading from the monitor. Aux battery is charged at 100% and after various hours with the fridge running and the engine on the monitor will show a gradual decrease and eventually read 0% but battery has plenty of charge in it and reading 12.6v from same monitor.
Have I wired something wrong or I just got a defective unit?
Thanks
h
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Maybe the monitor isn't zeroed (or 100%) correctly?
__________________
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????) - 2016 Sunstar 26HE (sold @ 4600 miles) - 2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)
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04-17-2021, 03:14 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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With the engine running, and charging, the monitor shouldn't go down at all.
Are you reading the AH numbers or watching a level indicator of some sort.
Some cheap monitors read AH but don't don't say if they are in or out. Once it gets down to 0, does it start up again ?
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04-17-2021, 03:29 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 6
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I zero the monitor manually to 100% when I've fully charged the battery with a wall charger.
It shows the actual amps in and out. With both the engine and the engel running it almost always shows negative amps.
Once it goes down to zero it stays there.
Below is the shunt and monitor I'm using
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04-17-2021, 03:33 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
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Perhaps you miswired the monitor wire and charging diode wires. Did you take pictures before you started in on your project?
__________________
TandW
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04-17-2021, 03:50 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW
Perhaps you miswired the monitor wire and charging diode wires. Did you take pictures before you started in on your project?
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Don't really understand what I might have miswired. The monitor is already wired from the box and plugs in the only socket on the shunt.
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04-18-2021, 08:36 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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The wiring diagram is simple. It would be hard to miss-wire it.
Usually this type of monitor has parameters that need to be set to make it read accurately. It needs the battery bank size most of all. It may adjust itself after a while, but there is most likely a procedure to set at least the battery bank size.
Otherwise it sounds like it is working properly.
It also sounds like your engine alternator is not charging your house battery enough to replace what is lost to the 12 volt appliances.
I don't know what a wall charger is. Do you connect it directly to the battery posts?
If so, the shunt will not see the "wall charger" charging current. That is going to confuse it. All current in and out must flow through the shunt for the monitor to work.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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04-18-2021, 09:04 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranzUgan
H ...
Both batteries negatives are going to chassis and engine block.
I wired the shunt on the aux battery between the battery negative post and the chassis ground. No other connection on the battery negative post. All other connections are done on the shunt terminal thar goes to the chassis.
I cannot seem to get a proper reading from the monitor. Aux battery is charged at 100% and after various hours with the fridge running and the engine on the monitor will show a gradual decrease and eventually read 0% but battery has plenty of charge in it and reading 12.6v from same monitor.
Have I wired something wrong or I just got a defective unit?
Thanks
h
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The chassis battery negative must be connected to the frame side of the shunt. No negative cables may be connected to the house battery side of the shunt or the house battery terminals. All current to or from the house battery must flow through the shunt.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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04-18-2021, 09:10 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: BC
Posts: 164
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When you use the way charger are you hooking it up to the battery post. You should be hooking it up to positive terminal of battery and neg to frame so shunt can see charging current
__________________
1999 Winnebago Chieftain
1992 Jeep YJ
1984 Harley Liberty edition
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04-18-2021, 09:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Glendora Ca.
Posts: 1,589
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Proper setup is important. I needed a magnifier to read instructions. Once set it has worked perfect.
Mike
__________________
2004 Monaco Monarch
Blueox, SMI, 1990 Wrangler YJ
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04-18-2021, 09:53 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Persistent
The wiring diagram is simple. It would be hard to miss-wire it.
Usually this type of monitor has parameters that need to be set to make it read accurately. It needs the battery bank size most of all. It may adjust itself after a while, but there is most likely a procedure to set at least the battery bank size.
Otherwise it sounds like it is working properly.
It also sounds like your engine alternator is not charging your house battery enough to replace what is lost to the 12 volt appliances.
I don't know what a wall charger is. Do you connect it directly to the battery posts?
If so, the shunt will not see the "wall charger" charging current. That is going to confuse it. All current in and out must flow through the shunt for the monitor to work.
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The battery bank size has been set.
All the negatives are connected to the "negative load" side of the shunt and the other side goes directly to the battery post. No other connections are done on the battery post.
Alternator works fine. If it was not I would have to recharge the house battery every couple of weeks, and I just top it up with an ac charger (wall charger). It has a "dedicated cable" on the shunt that I use for charging the battery.
The fridge draws about 3 to 5 amps and the alternator is 100 amps.
I just did a 6 hours trip with fridge on. According to the display I lost 40% of battery capacity. It shows that the battery is at 27% capacity yet the battery has 12.8v.
Wirh the engine running I'm getting 14v to the house battery and if the fridge is on it displays around -2amps. If I turn the fridge off I get +0.2 amps.
Eventually the display will read 0% but battery voltage will be at 12.7 or 12.8 and fridge will happily run for hours with the engine off.
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04-18-2021, 05:11 PM
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#12
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"Formerly Diplomat Don"
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 24,125
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Yours is a different brand, but I added the Magnum BMK shunt to my coach. You're suppose to wait several hours for it to determine the battery status. It was doing the same thing. It was dropping percentage of charge when I knew the batteries were full. Finally, I operated my full wall slide and saw that the percentage of charge was going up.
I called Magnum and they said their product was most likely not the issue. I had to give them my credit card to get them to send a new replacement for their brand new BMK I just installed. I got the new one, it worked perfectly and it learned the battery status in under an hour. I called Magnum....sure enough, their unit tested bad (backwards operation).
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 (Freightliner)
2019 Ford Raptor
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04-18-2021, 10:54 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 6
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Quick thought, since both the start and house battery share the same ground (chassis and engine block) could that affect its operation?
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04-20-2021, 08:12 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranzUgan
Quick thought, since both the start and house battery share the same ground (chassis and engine block) could that affect its operation?
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As posted before:
The chassis battery negative must be connected to the frame side of the shunt. No negative cables may be connected to the house battery side of the shunt or the house battery terminals. All current to or from the house battery must flow through the shunt.
You said this was wired correctly.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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