 |
07-25-2013, 12:23 PM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
|
Hello and Help
Hello everyone,
From WI and I have a 1993 19ft Sunlite Discovery Pop Top. Five foot sides and the last two feet pop up. I have had it since I was 18 and has been in storage for a few years. I was storing it down by my parents as I moved got married and such. Well the roof got banged on by a pipe (cover IT tarp material ripped) which let water get into the back part of the trailer roof and now the whole roof is water logged so all the particle board is sagging and very heavy. I have to replace the roof. How hard is it and what will I need or should I just consider looking for a used camper to replace it?
Thank you in advance for all the help.
|
|
|
 |
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
07-25-2013, 01:03 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
|
How much do you want to spend and you going to do it yourself?
|
|
|
07-25-2013, 01:04 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Spicewood, Tx
Posts: 708
|
It has been years since I've seen one of those units, rear door right? When you say roof, you really mean ceiling, right? Can't recall if the roof top was fiberglas or aluminum sheeting, is that OK or was it damaged by the pipe?
I suggest you start by pulling all the sagging ceiling paneling out, then you can inspect the rafters, they are most likely wood and probably damaged as well, but maybe just one or two. And it probably has fiberglas insulation that will need to be removed. If it has a roof mounted A/C unit, then pay special attention to the rafters supporting it. Also, check the four points where the lift mechanism attaches to the roof structure. This will give you a better idea how much work is involved with rebuilding the roof.
Also, what about other interior moisture damage to the walls, floor and cabinets? If the interior is OK and you have a dry work area, you should be able to undo the canvas sides, remove the roof and flip it over to make repairs. For new ceiling paneling, you might consider 4x8 sheets of FRP (fiberglas reinforced plastic), cost about $30-40 per sheet. This is similar to the fiberglas siding on RVs but has a pebble type surface finish and can be attached with construction adhesive and/or special fasteners. However it is only 1/8 inch thick and likely to sag between rafters. A cheaper and lighter option would be 4x8 sheets of Coroplast or similar material. This is basically a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. It is frequently used for outdoor signs. You will need at least 8mm thickness to minimize sagging. I used this to seal the underbelly of an RV along with special wide H trim that had screw holes to secure the panels.
Anyway, you might as well investigate the problem a little more before deciding since the Sunlite probably is of little value as it sits.
__________________
Larry Day, Texas Baptist Men volunteer
'13 Silverado LT 3500HD D/A CCSB 2wd, custom RKI bed
'19 Starcraft Telluride 292RLS
|
|
|
07-25-2013, 02:31 PM
|
#4
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dayle1
It has been years since I've seen one of those units, rear door right? When you say roof, you really mean ceiling, right? Can't recall if the roof top was fiberglas or aluminum sheeting, is that OK or was it damaged by the pipe?
I suggest you start by pulling all the sagging ceiling paneling out, then you can inspect the rafters, they are most likely wood and probably damaged as well, but maybe just one or two. And it probably has fiberglas insulation that will need to be removed. If it has a roof mounted A/C unit, then pay special attention to the rafters supporting it. Also, check the four points where the lift mechanism attaches to the roof structure. This will give you a better idea how much work is involved with rebuilding the roof.
Also, what about other interior moisture damage to the walls, floor and cabinets? If the interior is OK and you have a dry work area, you should be able to undo the canvas sides, remove the roof and flip it over to make repairs. For new ceiling paneling, you might consider 4x8 sheets of FRP (fiberglas reinforced plastic), cost about $30-40 per sheet. This is similar to the fiberglas siding on RVs but has a pebble type surface finish and can be attached with construction adhesive and/or special fasteners. However it is only 1/8 inch thick and likely to sag between rafters. A cheaper and lighter option would be 4x8 sheets of Coroplast or similar material. This is basically a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. It is frequently used for outdoor signs. You will need at least 8mm thickness to minimize sagging. I used this to seal the underbelly of an RV along with special wide H trim that had screw holes to secure the panels.
Anyway, you might as well investigate the problem a little more before deciding since the Sunlite probably is of little value as it sits.
|
Yeah I have to get into it. I know that the back panel is shot and the back outside is all banged up and bowing out. The whole roof on the outside is sagging and I can not lift it with the crank because it is just to heavy with the wood being water logged. I would be doing the work myself but I am concerned. I do have some water damage on the back storage area inside but the rest of the interior seems fine. The door is on the side and I took one of the windows out and then fit a window A/C in its place a while back. I will look more into this and thank you for your advice. Hopefully I can save it or I will then tear it apart if I can not and make a flat bed trailer out of it. Hope it doesn't come to that!!!
|
|
|
07-25-2013, 02:49 PM
|
#5
|
Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,869
|
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
|
|
|
07-25-2013, 03:09 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 713
|
If you can do the work yourself you are only out the cost of material. If you need to shop it out, replavement might be less expensive (not cheap). What are your use potentials ,summer only,breezy is okay,winter, no. Probably most important what does the DW say !!!
Don G
|
|
|
07-26-2013, 02:45 AM
|
#7
|
Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NH
Posts: 5,099
|
 from NH.
__________________
Bruce & Nancy
FMCA F280542
2004 Bounder 35E
US Navy Vet.
|
|
|
07-26-2013, 02:39 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 6,295
|
 Welcome and glad to meet you!
__________________
FMCA #F431170, GS #822128658, Escapees SKP #112655
2012 Airstream Mercedes Interstate Class B
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
|
|
|
 |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|