Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Just Conversation
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-25-2022, 09:24 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
TT_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 332
Any woodworkers in here? Want to get a router bit to mimic my cabinet doors

I'm making a new cabinet door and redesigning the area under the sink. I want to route the edge similar to how the drawers/doors are but I don't have this router bit. Perhaps this is a common one w/a common name? Looking at pics I see some similar but all are slightly different. Vertical raised panel seems to be the closest.

Thanks
Dave
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20220925_205241540.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	152.7 KB
ID:	377362  
__________________
1995 Fleetwood Southwind
TT_Vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-26-2022, 01:00 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 27,313
That is the bit name. You must measure your present door radius curve, or take a door with you to an Ace hardware store or a lumber yard store so they may match the existing door exactly.
Once you have your router properly adjusted, use some scrap wood to practice getting the depth and width just right, otherwise it's probable you'll ruin your door blank.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA." My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
Ray,IN is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 07:43 AM   #3
Junior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Looks like the back cutter bit of a raised panel set, like this one: https://www.rockler.com/back-cutter-router-bit

Possibly: https://www.rockler.com/ogee-door-bit-oe804

You may need to get different a size bearing to get the correct dimensions to match what you have.

As Ray said, scrap wood is key to getting it adjusted right.

Depending on how much cutting you plan to do, a router table can be helpful. It's pretty easy to get a gouge with these big bits because something moved when you didn't expect it.
MPfeif is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 09:46 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
TT_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPfeif View Post
Looks like the back cutter bit of a raised panel set, like this one: https://www.rockler.com/back-cutter-router-bit

Possibly: https://www.rockler.com/ogee-door-bit-oe804

You may need to get different a size bearing to get the correct dimensions to match what you have.

As Ray said, scrap wood is key to getting it adjusted right.

Depending on how much cutting you plan to do, a router table can be helpful. It's pretty easy to get a gouge with these big bits because something moved when you didn't expect it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
That is the bit name. You must measure your present door radius curve, or take a door with you to an Ace hardware store or a lumber yard store so they may match the existing door exactly.
Once you have your router properly adjusted, use some scrap wood to practice getting the depth and width just right, otherwise it's probable you'll ruin your door blank.

Thanks guys. Found something similar on amazon that I could get tomorrow. , what do you guys think? The #3 bit is the one that seems very close. My radius is ~1/4" and my "inset" for lack of a better word of the curve is about 5/8" The dimensions do not need to be "exact" but where would i get different OD bearings for something like this if need be? I see 1/2" replacement bearings but nothing w/ different ODs. Years ago i did buy an old craftsman table saw and the person had modified it to use as a router table, it has been very helpful for me.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20220926_085731231_HDR.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	278.6 KB
ID:	377379  
__________________
1995 Fleetwood Southwind
TT_Vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 10:20 AM   #5
Junior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
No 3 looks close, can't really tell without the measurements on your existing.

From the pic, it doesn't appear there is a radius on the outside edge, so the larger bearing would be to move that part of the bit away. I used bearings off other bits, but search "router bit guide bearing set" on Amazon, a bunch come up.

I see there is also back cutter bits on amazon if that fits the profile better.

The table looks it will do the job!

Good luck!
MPfeif is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 10:26 AM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 99
I dont think you need a bearing, Since the door is rectangular, I would just use a straight edge guide to set the gap between the router bit and the piece.
The best advice you received in this forum is to Be sure to try it out on scrap first!!
All the best
1stimerveer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 10:33 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
TT_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPfeif View Post
No 3 looks close, can't really tell without the measurements on your existing.

From the pic, it doesn't appear there is a radius on the outside edge, so the larger bearing would be to move that part of the bit away. I used bearings off other bits, but search "router bit guide bearing set" on Amazon, a bunch come up.

I see there is also back cutter bits on amazon if that fits the profile better.

The table looks it will do the job!

Good luck!
I found these but they do not mention ID or OD of these bearings so I really have no idea if they will work, if the ID on router bits is standardized, etc. I did see that outer radius on the edge and mine may have a very slight radius as i don't think these are exactly 90 deg corners but looking at the pic that radius of #3 on the outer edge won't be very large. HOWEVER, if I did go w/ a larger OD bearing to pull that outer radius out wouldn't that also reduce the depth of the other cut? IE, it's inset 5/8" now w/a 1/2" OD bearing and if I go to say a 5/8" OD bearing wouldnt' the inset cut now only be 1/2" vs. 5/8? That's assuming the radius of that outer edge is 1/8" I hope this makes sense.

Dave
__________________
1995 Fleetwood Southwind
TT_Vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 10:47 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
TT_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stimerveer View Post
I dont think you need a bearing, Since the door is rectangular, I would just use a straight edge guide to set the gap between the router bit and the piece.
The best advice you received in this forum is to Be sure to try it out on scrap first!!
All the best
I certainly will be using test pieces. My question is, without a bearing how do you set the exact same depth around all 4 sides. You would have to adjust the guide for both sides (long and short) so your depth could be different on the two. Not to mention if i would to accidentally not keep the board square on my guide even a little (If it catches, etc.) I could gouge the piece and screw it up couldn't it? I'm not a competent woodworker just FYI..

Dave
__________________
1995 Fleetwood Southwind
TT_Vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 01:02 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
I certainly will be using test pieces. My question is, without a bearing how do you set the exact same depth around all 4 sides. You would have to adjust the guide for both sides (long and short) so your depth could be different on the two. Not to mention if i would to accidentally not keep the board square on my guide even a little (If it catches, etc.) I could gouge the piece and screw it up couldn't it? I'm not a competent woodworker just FYI..

Dave
my router table has a notch in the guide fence that the router bit protrudes thru, so that the router bit cutting edge and the guide fence are both on the same side of the piece being routed.

Your fence then does the same job the bearing would do. Once you set the depth of cut, it doesn't matter how wide your piece is, when you are routing a straight edge.
For curved edges you would need a bearing.

You are right about to potential for grabbing and gouging when the fence and router bit are on opposite sides of the work piece.
1stimerveer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 01:22 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
TT_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stimerveer View Post
my router table has a notch in the guide fence that the router bit protrudes thru, so that the router bit cutting edge and the guide fence are both on the same side of the piece being routed.

Your fence then does the same job the bearing would do. Once you set the depth of cut, it doesn't matter how wide your piece is, when you are routing a straight edge.
For curved edges you would need a bearing.

You are right about to potential for grabbing and gouging when the fence and router bit are on opposite sides of the work piece.
Given how narrow the cut is I can put the fence on the other side if need be. I'm just not knowledgeable enough to know which side is the "right" side. Ill have to cut a test piece and see if it's pulling the wood into the bit or pushing it away.
Dave
__________________
1995 Fleetwood Southwind
TT_Vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 01:24 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 99
My first fence was a 1x3 clamped to a table using two C clamps. I just cut a notch in it that allowed the router bit to extend through the fence just enough to get the depth of cut I wanted.

I always feed against/into the rotation. If you feed into the cutting edge, you have a lot more control and its safer and you'll get a smoother cut.
1stimerveer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 01:30 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Quote:
I found these but they do not mention ID or OD of these bearings so I really have no idea if they will work, if the ID on router bits is standardized, etc. I did see that outer radius on the edge and mine may have a very slight radius as i don't think these are exactly 90 deg corners but looking at the pic that radius of #3 on the outer edge won't be very large. HOWEVER, if I did go w/ a larger OD bearing to pull that outer radius out wouldn't that also reduce the depth of the other cut? IE, it's inset 5/8" now w/a 1/2" OD bearing and if I go to say a 5/8" OD bearing wouldnt' the inset cut now only be 1/2" vs. 5/8? That's assuming the radius of that outer edge is 1/8" I hope this makes sense.
Looking at those measurements I think you're probably ok with 1/2" OD bearing, and as you say anything different wouldn't match the 5/8" inset anymore. Adjust the bit depth (using the router) to be a bit shallower than the profile shown on amazon and that will lessen that outside edge radius. A little sandpaper will make it a perfect match I'd say the spacing from the edge to the inside edge of the radius is probably the most important to get things to look like they match. Don't get hung up on the measurements, if it looks good it is.

What's your material? If it's wood plank, I've generally had better success doing the cross-grain ends, then the with-the-grain sides, as the cross-grain ends have tendency to knock chunks out at the end. With it being painted, tho, I'd probably use a hardwood plywood, like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Swaner-H...5921/202085716. Sometimes you can get this in 2x4' project panels. Probably need a little plastic wood and then sand to get the routed edges smooth.
MPfeif is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2022, 01:36 PM   #13
Junior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
Given how narrow the cut is I can put the fence on the other side if need be. I'm just not knowledgeable enough to know which side is the "right" side. Ill have to cut a test piece and see if it's pulling the wood into the bit or pushing it away.
Dave
You can also clamp a couple boards to the fence, leaving a gap in the middle for the router bit. Although I'd still recommend using the bearing if you can, much more stable and less likely to gouge.
MPfeif is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2022, 02:38 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
TT_Vert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 332
Thanks for the input guys. Came out pretty decent, not exact but good enough for me. Have a ton of coats of paint to put on it but it'll look good when done. Didn't realize I got 1/2" shank bits but luckily I had a collet for a 1/2" shank so I was able to get this done quickly. Now i need to find a way to quickly and squarely get this door face attached to the drawer i made w/o having access to the backside to mark. I think I'll just hold it up and shoot a few nails into it where it should be then pull it off and screw it from the back. I'll pull/fill the temp nails/holes after unless you guys have a better idea.



Thanks
Dave
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20220927_130807830.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	463.5 KB
ID:	377458  
__________________
1995 Fleetwood Southwind
TT_Vert is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
door, doors, route, router



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to get better WiFi reception (want something that plugs into coach's Router) CountryB Technology: Internet, TV, Satellite, Cell Phones, etc. 25 01-10-2019 05:48 AM
Any Knowledgeable Woodworkers Out There? Golfer Guy iRV2.com General Discussion 14 06-08-2016 09:00 AM
any knowlegable woodworkers out there? Golfer Guy Monaco Owner's Forum 12 06-05-2016 12:24 PM
Shower doors / cabinet doors Wood Chip Outdoors RV Owner's Forum 2 04-21-2016 12:13 PM
Cabinet Makers/Woodworkers? I need your help!! rf4 iRV2.com General Discussion 3 07-29-2012 09:35 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.