Community Forums

diandtom · 06-19-2011, 09:50 AM

I would like to take out my two nine foot doors with a two foot space between the doors and put in one twenty foot door. My problem is the header over the doors. Any builders out there got a way to do it without getting a sag in the roof of the garage ? This will make it possible to put a dually in the garage. When built in 1992 had no idea that I would be getting this big of a truck. It is really tight with the crew cab I now have.

Half Dimes · 06-19-2011, 10:07 AM

Sounds like you're going to need a whole new header. Maybe an engineering type will chime in to calculate what size and type you'll need. You might want to check with a local garage door installer and see what he recommends.

hondo122 · 06-19-2011, 02:39 PM

I assume that this is in an end wall, that being the case the header isn't supporting the roof, the trusses are. So all your supporting is the section of wall above the door. With out seeing it, it would be hard to recommend what size and attachment system is required. Post some pictures from the inside of the middle and the end where the beam would connect.

doc · 06-19-2011, 02:58 PM

Tom, you met Pete Shetterly at Dillard a while back. He owned an overhead door company. I wanted to put a full width door on my carport and he advised against it. Everything has to be heavier, panels, springs, opener - and the check you write to pay for it all.
That said, if I was going to go your route, I might get a laminated beam and set it inside the building on a couple of columns. Bolt through the wall and the beam in several places.
My carport is 22 feet and I have a laminated beam holding up the entire roofline. Has never sagged an iota.

diandtom · 06-19-2011, 07:15 PM

Nope, Hondo it a side wall. The cost for the door installed is $2300. I will measure tomorrow and take a few pictures. I think now over each 9 wide door there is a couple of 2X12. Big mistake getting a 9 foot wide door. I have scrapped the mirrors on my truck several times as I have to make a turn to enter the door. When I had a regular cab SB F150 everything was fine.

IC2 · 06-19-2011, 07:41 PM

Regardless of whether it's gable end or not, stick built or truss it will need some sort of reinforcing. You can purchase a 10 or 12 inch steel I/H beam or make up something laminated using 2x10 or 12's with plywood between the sections. Do you have room ceiling height for that? Many garages don't.

I don't understand the problem - I have 9' wide, 7' high garage doors and put my SRW F350 4x4 FX4 Off Road version (2 to 3 inches higher then the standard 4x4) in with an inch on top at the clearance lights and about 1-1/2 with the mirrors out and lots with them swung in.. I am careful of the height if there is ice or snow pack.

Half Dimes · 06-19-2011, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diandtom

...The cost for the door installed is $2300....

Tom,
When you got that price, what did the installer say about the header. Or was that just the cost to put a door in a new opening?

Martind4 · 06-19-2011, 07:51 PM

This might be kind of a "weird" solution, but could you move the support a couple of feet one way to make a 10' opening, 2' support, and a remaining 8' door?

Then you could buy a sports car or something small to fit in the little door.

diandtom · 06-19-2011, 07:51 PM

Dave, that just the cost to put up the door. I may be parking the next truck under the shelter on the back of the garage. Just into the planning stage now.

diandtom · 06-20-2011, 07:46 AM

I have got 19 inches from the top of the door to the ceiling.

HMXDave · 06-20-2011, 08:37 PM

Maybe pull off some drywall and have a look. Since that wall does appear to hold the trusses, maybe there is already a long beam across the whole thing. If not, you will have to temporarily support the trusses with a post and beam system back from the door opening a bit....then demo and install a new, longer header across then new opening. (I'm not an engineer....so you will need sizes confirmed by one. I did however install garage doors for several years when I was younger and still enjoy installing/servicing my friends' doors)

diandtom · 06-20-2011, 10:18 PM

I have found out that I need a structural engineer and they do have a 22' X 18 " truss beam that may work if a structural engineer says ok. I got a problems also with the 20 ft door not passing a wind rating for this area. I think the next truck I may just park it around back.

HMXDave · 06-21-2011, 05:31 PM

Just frame it in and go with a more standard 16' door.

jamesgr81 · 06-21-2011, 05:48 PM

You can do this easily if you are good with tools. Build a structure to temporarily support the rafters in case they sag, nothing too complicated, a 2x4 stud wall will do. Then you can remove old headers, doors, and inside drywall, and frame up for a new 16' header and door frame. You may be able to minimize siding work if you do it carefully. Once you are framed up take away temporary supports and you are home free. No engineer needed and much better then trying to sister up some header along side of existing headers.

Or you could hire an experienced contractor if you are not up to it.

Good luck either way.