1972 Dodge Champion Brakes

[gandl2123]

Hey does anyone know how to get these drums off? Front different than rear?

Also I can't find a brake booster anywhere. Is there some kind of universal or rebuild?
((Cardone Part# - 54-73143))

51k miles original owner. Yes I would part with it but gosh dang I love this thing.

Location Augusta, GA

[gandl2123]

Runs, just can't stop it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eaCnASazqVh4a5ks6

[code2e]

Originally Posted by gandl2123

Hey does anyone know how to get these drums off? Front different than rear?

Also I can't find a brake booster anywhere. Is there some kind of universal or rebuild?
((Cardone Part# - 54-73143))

51k miles original owner. Yes I would part with it but gosh dang I love this thing.

Location Augusta, GA

Front and rear drums are likely different sizes, but removal is similar. The drums mount to the back side of the hub flanges. The wheel studs are pressed through the drums into the hub flanges. So to remove a drum you must remove the hub with drum assembly from it's respective spindle. On the front, tap or pry off the center cap, remove the cotter pin and castle nut. The outer wheel bearing & washer will drop out soon as you wiggle the drum. If drum does not pull off, you will need to back off the brake adjustment from behind the backing plate. The brake shoes may well have worn a path in the drum and need retracting to allow drum removal.

The rear is the same except for having floating axle shafts to pull out rather than the dust cap that the front uses. Drums come off by driving out the studs. Studs should be replaced with new and pressed in evenly with hydraulic press.

RockAuto.com shows a brake booster in stock. Might be worth a try. There are companies that rebuild customers boosters as well, if you have the time.

[gandl2123]

Thank you so very much. That really cleared up for me. What a perfect response!.

Hey, on the front dust cover it looks like it takes a 2 and 1/4-in socket but you're saying just go ahead and pry it off like a typical round dust covers on break drums?

[code2e]

Originally Posted by gandl2123

Thank you so very much. That really cleared up for me. What a perfect response!.

Hey, on the front dust cover it looks like it takes a 2 and 1/4-in socket but you're saying just go ahead and pry it off like a typical round dust covers on break drums?

There were some dust caps that threaded in. Haven't seen one in a few years. Most just tapped on and pried off. If you cleaned the area where the cap meets the hub, you may be able to see thread. Shouldn't do any harm to try a socket on it either. It is just a dust cap.

[gandl2123]

Yeah it turns out that as dust caps go most of them are round but this one is in the shape of a two and a quarter inch sheet metal type nut. So I'm going to take your advice and try to turn it off first before I start. Jamming and prying.

[gandl2123]

Originally Posted by code2e

There were some dust caps that threaded in. Haven't seen one in a few years. Most just tapped on and pried off. If you cleaned the area where the cap meets the hub, you may be able to see thread. Shouldn't do any harm to try a socket on it either. It is just a dust cap.

Well, this one is a perfectly formed 2-3/8's inch dust cap. I can see where (maybe my son) someone has used a screwdriver or chisel to cut into one of the corners of the cap.

I just ordered a 2-3/8's inch socket should be here Saturday. Then we'll see what she has to say.

I was able to get the master cylinder off fairly easy and going to put the new one on (any advice?) and bleed the fronts to see if I can get some brake and do a good job of testing the booster to see if she is functioning properly. If she is not, then I'm hoping the one at RockAuto is still available.

Amazing how good the brake lines look on this rig. No rust, just dust.

[code2e]

Originally Posted by gandl2123

Well, this one is a perfectly formed 2-3/8's inch dust cap. I can see where (maybe my son) someone has used a screwdriver or chisel to cut into one of the corners of the cap.

I just ordered a 2-3/8's inch socket should be here Saturday. Then we'll see what she has to say.

I was able to get the master cylinder off fairly easy and going to put the new one on (any advice?) and bleed the fronts to see if I can get some brake and do a good job of testing the booster to see if she is functioning properly. If she is not, then I'm hoping the one at RockAuto is still available.

Amazing how good the brake lines look on this rig. No rust, just dust.

Bench bleed the master cylinder before you install it. Pickup or order a bench bleed kit. Comes with several sizes of nylon fittings and short lengths of tubing. Thread a fitting in each master cylinder port with a tube from each to it's respective reservoir. Fill both reservoirs with DOT 3 brake fluid. The tubes need to be submerged in brake fluid. If you have a bench vise, clamp the flange to hold it still. If no vice, have a helper hold the body of the master cylinder upright and still. Use a long phillips screwdriver as a pushrod, Slowly push the piston full travel and release slowly all the way back. Will take many pumps to bleed out all air bubbles. Keep tubes in place while installing master cylinder. Once all bolted up, then remove one tube & fitting. Immediately install brake line finger tight. Repeat for other brake line. Have helper step on brake pedal while you loosen and tighten brake line. This gets the most possible air out before bleeding at each wheel. When bleeding at wheels, always start at wheel furthest away and finish with closest.

On Amazon, Dorman #13911 bleeder kit is $5.64. Local auto parts will likely have as well.

[gandl2123]

Great description. Thanks and ordering right now. Watched a few vids.

[gandl2123]

Got kit, bled the master cylinder with no problem. Waiting for this weather to clear so I can install and bleed the system.

Problem:

Bought and received the 2-3/8" socket for the dust cover....dang, too big. Does anyone know the actual listed size for this dustcover / nut?

Thank again.

[code2e]

Originally Posted by gandl2123

Got kit, bled the master cylinder with no problem. Waiting for this weather to clear so I can install and bleed the system.

Problem:

Bought and received the 2-3/8" socket for the dust cover....dang, too big. Does anyone know the actual listed size for this dustcover / nut?

Thank again.

Sorry, I do not know the size. Any chance of removing the cap with slip joint pliers? Like water pump pliers? A few taps with a soft faced hammer may help loosen it as well.

[gandl2123]

It's very interesting. I have not tried to bang on it with chisel or screwdriver to get it to spin or try to pry it off... Why? Because I see where somebody is already tried to do that... I'm going to go with the socket approach first and try to spin it off before I bang on it. Now I have to order a second socket because two and three aces not the size. I actually took a piece of tape, put it across the nut and then marked it with marker and took it off and measured it and it was 2 and 1/4...... So Amazon here I come and a short wait for the socket and then we'll find out. Thanks!

[gandl2123]

Here's my progress and my dilemma.

Today I mounted the new bench-bled master cylinder. I hooked up the larger 9/16 front line and also the smaller half inch line to the rear.

I would like to know as I haven't traced the lines yet but I'm feeling that the bigger 9/16 nutted line runs the front brakes and the half inch smaller line runs the back brakes.

Here's the problem I had today after I bled the air out of the half inch line which is to the rear of the master cylinder. As my son pumped the brakes and then held them. I loosened the half inch nut and brake fluid shot out very nicely.

Then we tried the front line or the fatter line and every time we broke the nut nothing at all happened. The brake pedal did not go down nor did any fluid come out as a result of loosening. Remember this is a brand new master cylinder that was bench bled and during the bleeding process it was noticed that both the front and the rear lines on the master cylinder were moving fluid and clearing bubbles.

However, when placed on the vehicle and having pump the brakes and loosening the 9/16 nut, nothing happens. Nothing at all. The brake pedal does not go down and even when you loosen the line two or three turns you get absolutely nothing out of the line.

How is this possible?? Now I'm going to stuck. I don't really know what to do. I thought about loosening the lines at the back of the wheel cylinders and maybe trying to blow compressed air through them but didn't really want to introduce all this air to everything.

I'm wondering if I have some kind of a wheel cylinders that are plugged or locked up?.

I really don't know where to go next. Looking for some advice.

[code2e]

Originally Posted by gandl2123

Here's my progress and my dilemma.

Today I mounted the new bench-bled master cylinder. I hooked up the larger 9/16 front line and also the smaller half inch line to the rear.

I would like to know as I haven't traced the lines yet but I'm feeling that the bigger 9/16 nutted line runs the front brakes and the half inch smaller line runs the back brakes.

Here's the problem I had today after I bled the air out of the half inch line which is to the rear of the master cylinder. As my son pumped the brakes and then held them. I loosened the half inch nut and brake fluid shot out very nicely.

Then we tried the front line or the fatter line and every time we broke the nut nothing at all happened. The brake pedal did not go down nor did any fluid come out as a result of loosening. Remember this is a brand new master cylinder that was bench bled and during the bleeding process it was noticed that both the front and the rear lines on the master cylinder were moving fluid and clearing bubbles.

However, when placed on the vehicle and having pump the brakes and loosening the 9/16 nut, nothing happens. Nothing at all. The brake pedal does not go down and even when you loosen the line two or three turns you get absolutely nothing out of the line.

How is this possible?? Now I'm going to stuck. I don't really know what to do. I thought about loosening the lines at the back of the wheel cylinders and maybe trying to blow compressed air through them but didn't really want to introduce all this air to everything.

I'm wondering if I have some kind of a wheel cylinders that are plugged or locked up?.

I really don't know where to go next. Looking for some advice.

Don't blow air unless both ends of the line are open. It may deposit debris into the new master or your wheel cylinders, if connected.

My first suspicion would be you have air in the line from the 9/16 fitting. Air compresses and may not be letting you build pressure to expel any fluid. You might try gravity bleeding. That is where you leave the master cylinder lid or caps ajar so air can enter. Then break open wheel cylinder bleeders and let gravity do the work. You can start with just the front or just the rear. That will tell you which reservoir feeds that axle by the fluid level going down.

Keep the reservoirs filled so as not to introduce air. If both bleed down most of their capacity, refill and try manual bleeding again.