I'm kinda not seeing the need here for this. I have the same trailer, 1987 version.
If you're living in it full-time, with A/C, microwave, water heater (convert it to use A/C power, see link below), "toasters, microwaves and three TVs as well as Cell phones, laptops, tools..." then, really, you're going to be plugged into shore power for most of that to work. If so then the only thing you'll use your batteries for are:
- Lighting
- Water plump
- TV and stereo (mine's 12V)
- Charging cellphones using the car-plug behind the TV
- Vent fans
- Heater fan
Nothing else will use the batteries, everything else will be shore powered (even the fridge). At that point the light 12V load will pretty much all come directly through the inverter, not from the batteries, so there will be almost no load on the battery to charge back up.
Further, even though you have "only" a 30A shore power plug, your entire 120V electrical system is based around that, primarily the A/C circuit breaker system. Even if you were to switch your plug to a 50A one, your system will not draw any more power than it's designed for (same as if you used a 50A converter plug). And if you tried to pull more load from the shore power then the A/C circuit breaker panel would trip...so you'd have to replace/upgrade that component as well.
Are you planning to run the A/C *and* the microwave *and* the toaster *and* charge a bunch of laptops all at once? Then maybe you need a system upgrade. Otherwise, just manage them one or two at a time...and of course, none of those are running off the batteries.*
Honestly, man, I see no value in spending money for better batteries and converter when you're going to be consuming almost all of your needs from shore power (or a generator). It just doesn't make financial or technical sense...
To live in mine full-time, I'd ensure solid shore power access, a good converter that won't overcharge my batteries, maybe change all the lighting to LED (I did that, as well as converting my outisde security lights to LED). Convert the water heater to 120VAC to minimize propane use (and see about getting a 120 gallon tank installed close by) and depending on the part of the country I'm living in I'd look into buying full skirts for the perimeter of the trailer (the fully covered bottom with heat going through it helps, but it's not freeze-proof in very cold temperatures).
Another big winter plus would be to fab some insulation panels to block off the storage areas under the front kitchen bench and the rear bed storage lockers, as those get really cold in the winter. Same goes for the access doors for A/C and water valves.
Honestly, I think you're good, but please keep us posted. And I wish you the best on getting back into your real home! - GA
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11773-W...0024E6UMC?th=1
*I have this oddball idea that some day I want to convert my A/C to run off a large inverter. Reason is, if I convert it to that system then I can run the A/C off a smaller portable generator, like a Honda EU2000, instead of the larger EU3000is I have now (I've installed a SoftStart but it's *just* not enough, so I have to schlep the 3000). A/C would run off a 3500W inverter with the battery taking the startuip load, and a small portable genny (plus the PV on the roof) would keep the batteries topped off.
EDIT: just re-read your comment about "blizzards". if you are going to have long-term problems with shore power, note that you will lose access to almost anything that is 120VAC only. And, of course, your batteries aren't going to last forever without a charging source.
Will that be a generator? Then it's still the same situation as shore power and the same points as above apply, but with an additional need for long-term access to gasoline. For 30A service - which will pretty much run everything you need in winter - a Honda EU3000is is fine. Or maybe one of the newer Wen DF450i if you want to pull a full 30A through the shore power connection.
Will that be batteries and you do without 120VAC equipment? Then you need a solar array to keep your batteries up to snuff (and access to sunlight...) But even with a 200W array you're not charging your batteries very hard...and will need to shed load as much as possible to ensure you have enough for heat.
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