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Old 09-09-2016, 02:29 PM   #1
mw4
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1985 Winnebago Chieftain 22' -- Electrical advice

I have a 1985 Winnebago Chieftain 22' that I want to change out the power center converter charger. Currently it is a 30 Amp, and I'd like to get it swapped for a new modern version. I need some general direction. 30 vs 50, Brands, don't do this... , etc.

I have no issue doing this myself, just wanting some advice.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:21 AM   #2
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What's your reasoning for wanting to swap out the power center? Not functioning, new heavy loads, expandability, etc. That would help in giving advice.
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1989 Winnebago Elandan under "extreme" renovation
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:08 PM   #3
mw4
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well, it's very old and I have gone through several batteries so I'm not sure what kind of charge or overcharge it's getting.

Also tripping a lot so I'd like to split off some of the circuits and run new new Circuits / romex.

For example I'm replacing a gas water heater, with a gas/electric, and need a dedicated circuit for that.

When I bought the coach, the local RV repair went over the rig and they said I should consider replacing it then.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:11 PM   #4
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I'd say start with taking a look at the load on each circuit and seeing what the total load is. Also look at how many circuits you feel you need. Also look at how many 12v circuits you need. That will narrow down your search and point you in the direction of what kind of unit you need.

If the old unit is questionable, I would opt for installing a new one. But before that I would determine what is causing the symptoms of the old one. Why are circuits tripping, and what is the output from the charger? Is it the charger causing problems with the batteries or is there another reason for it? The charger should be putting out between 12.9v to 14.1v, with 13.5v-13.8v preferred.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:38 PM   #5
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I changed the old convertor in my 1988 Itasca to a new Progressive Dynamics PD4600 unit. The old convertor had a mechanical coil in it that discharged one time when the generator died and blew the new tv. The new unit is solid state so no back feed. Has more fuses for 12v power also. I just recently found out my fridge was direct wired to to the power coming from the batteries on one of the solenoids. New fridge is wired thru the convertor with a 5 amp fuse.

If you replace your unit take lots of pictures of the old unit and try to identify the circuits before you disconnect them. My new unit has a red light for a circuit that has a blown fuse which can shorten the time to repair it.
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