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Old 03-07-2021, 03:19 PM   #1
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1988 v/8 460 efi

Hello everyone, I have a 1988 e-350 rockwood with a 460 efi thats been sitting for a while having trouble with starting it.I know it's a fuel issue both pumps are no good . I purchased both and intend on replacing them and draining all the fuel . Well yesterday I had a chance to working on it .I disconnected the fuel line just after the main fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers seat. I replaced that pump and filter.I got a bucket and placed the lines in it with fresh fuel just to get good fuel to the engine. I can hear the pump activating and the new fuel is pumping too the fuel rail, I have good spark and I've tested the signal to the injector's but it won't run .only if I shoot starter fluid into the intake. The fuel smells really bad and looks like tarnish The question is what are the chances of all 8 injector's being bad?
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:16 PM   #2
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The chances are high since you say the old fuel is varnished. It is not hard to clean up the existing injectors. You'll want to get a set of o-rings and inlet screens. Google how to clean them up and use a 9 volt battery to trigger them open-close while spraying carb cleaner thru them.
Once you get it running you may want to check fuel pressure at the rail. Should be 39 psi with the vac hose pulled off the regulator.
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Old 03-08-2021, 01:35 AM   #3
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A set of 8 fuel injectors runs less than $75.

I would replace them, then clean your originals for spares.
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:12 AM   #4
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New injectors are available at Rockauto.com for the 1988 F53 460 refi.
However, they will cost about $175 plus shipping. But they will be brand new.

Before I condemn the injectors, I'd pull at least one from the fuel rail and see if they spray fuel when cranking the engine over.

You may also want to get a Noid light, to safely test for power getting to the injector from the electrical connector.

Harbor Freight has set of Noid lights for $35.00
https://www.harborfreight.com/11-pie...set-97959.html

Or this one from Amazon made by Astro
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7898-De...5215977&sr=8-8
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Old 03-08-2021, 04:24 PM   #5
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Well the coach is 50 miles away and won't be able to get there till weekend . So this morning I ordered a rebuild kit for them hopefully they will be in by then. I'll try to clean them up and get it running . If it doesn't work I will be able to get the correct #s off the injectors and order them. I don't want to order the wrong ones. keeping fingers crossed that I'll get it up and running...
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Old 03-11-2021, 04:52 PM   #6
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Well today was an early day at work and I was able to swing in to the coach and remove the injector's. I just finished rebuilding them. I found that they were all stuck so with a little ball peen hammer and lite taps while hooked up to the 9 volt battery I was able to free them all. I have a question about the end caps that came in the rebuild kit that go on the injector where they attach to the intake. The old ones are longer and like a cone shape, but the new ones sit flush with the bottom of the injector. Will this make a difference with the spray pattern?
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Old 03-11-2021, 10:57 PM   #7
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I really doubt it but if the old ones are in decent shape you could just reuse them.
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Old 03-12-2021, 12:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steppinstone View Post
Well today was an early day at work and I was able to swing in to the coach and remove the injector's. I just finished rebuilding them. I found that they were all stuck so with a little ball peen hammer and lite taps while hooked up to the 9 volt battery I was able to free them all. I have a question about the end caps that came in the rebuild kit that go on the injector where they attach to the intake. The old ones are longer and like a cone shape, but the new ones sit flush with the bottom of the injector. Will this make a difference with the spray pattern?



Here is a couple of photos of the end caps
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Old 03-12-2021, 08:17 AM   #9
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Wow, those ARE original. By all means, swap to the new and updated late model style. No worries.
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Old 03-13-2021, 02:47 AM   #10
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I went by yesterday on my way home from work and put them in . It took me about an hour because of the tight room restriction. After all the hail Marys flying got it all buttoned up. I turn the key about 5 times to prime it and she fired right up. I did notice the ant freeze coming from the over flow tube so I think the thermostat is stuck? My brother in law couldn't believe it fired so quick and purred . The sticker on the windshield says 05 well I guess that was the last time it was running give or take. Know just have to drop the tank and replace the inline fuel pump and bad gas.
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Old 03-13-2021, 09:10 PM   #11
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Antifreeze coming out the overflow before it's even gotten warm indicates a bad radiator cap usually. The rubber gasket in them gets old and cracks. Pull cap off and give it a look and you'll probably be able to see it not being healthy.

Rare, but I have seen a crack/notch in the radiator where that rubber seal goes. IE, a brand new cap would seal for a while and then let go and drive me crazy until I figured out the actual issue was not defective caps.
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Old 03-28-2021, 04:42 AM   #12
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I was able to get in there yesterday and do a little work on it.I had to replace the power steering belt as I snapped it when I first started it cause the a/c pully was seized I was able to free it up. Put a bucket with about gas in it about a gallon or so and removed the radiator cap and let it run till it stopped over flowing then replaced the cap no more over flow. I think it was over flowing because I topped the anti freeze off when I first started work on it. I ended up letting it run till used up all the gas. So I figured before I shut it down to start on the fuel tank I would see if it would move, I put my foot on the the pedal and blow the brake line front driver's side so I was able to move it anyway. Then I tackled the fuel tank it was really a lot easier then I thought it was going to be to remove with it being about 1/2 a tank. I purchased just the pump and stored it in the basement about 3 years ago but when I removed the old one found it was not the right one (oh well). The pump was all rusty and destroyed so when I got home I was able to find the right one and ordered it should be in by tuesday so I will have to wait till next weekend to install it and fix the brake line and bleed the system.
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Old 03-28-2021, 11:28 PM   #13
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You may already be considering this but if one brake line blew just pressing on the brake pedal you can be sure the other rubber lines are in similar condition. If you plan to bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal you'll probably end up with a failing master cylinder. Best to use a vacuum or pressure bleeder. Are you trying to get it in drivable condition to get it home?
A full brake system rebuild is a must based on the condition and problems you've described so far.
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Old 03-31-2021, 11:56 PM   #14
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I figured I was going to have to bleed the system down because of contamination from sitting so long. I have ordered all new rubber lines waiting for them to come in . I will be using a vacuum bleeder to bleed the system down when the parts come in hopefully the master cylinder will be okay we'll see..
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