Community Forums

whem2fish · 12-19-2020, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoupsOn

Great! Nice to meet you!

Do you by chance have a listing on OfferUp for RV doors? I (thought I) sent a message to someone in Alvaredo a day or two ago. Haven't heard anything back.

Point being, it's great to know I have neighbors, aNd, if you have RV doors to sell, I'm looking to replace my door and screen assembly!

Well, maybe I could get by with replacing the entire lock and latch, but it needs complete parts on both sides of the door and a new threshold. I figure for the right price I'd rather start fresh.

look on marketplace

spinroch · 12-19-2020, 11:02 AM

I have a 97 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. If you take the time to do some searching, you can learn a myriad of things about your coach. Remember to SEARCH iRV2. The info is there! Like the others have said, the engine and chassis is best researched separately. Look for info and manuals for your model year chassis (it can be slightly different that the model year of your coach) Then you can start accumulating info about the RV systems. I was able able to get a lot of info about the 12v vehicle wiring system from a P30 step van manual. You can identify which fuses under the dash (in the GM fuse block) are which: print a picture and label the fuses. If you take a pic of the inside of the 12v HR distribution box under the hood, you can identify what all the fuses are for in there, too. There is also the 12v fuse panel in the rear (in my case, bedroom) of the coach. It is much easier now than in the dark in a parking lot or side road, that’s for sure. Each time you gather more information, put it in the binder. For example, in my book I have info on the GM vehicle wiring, 12v coach wiring, fuse locations with values and names, converter/charger, hydraulic jack manual, generator manual, etc. This is because I do my own work on the coach. You sound like this would work for you, too. It has made my work on the RV much easier, as I do work such as rebuilding the dash without the big CRT tv, and tracing open connections and improper wiring. I have found a broken wire BEHIND the GM fuse block, connector pins not pushed far enough into the wiring connectors... Good thing I am patient and like electrical sleuthing! After realizing that a coach 12v wiring diagram was scarcer than hen’s teeth, I started my book. The resources are here. Don’t forget to look up info on the infamous Auto Park system on this chassis. It’s good to know how to disable it if it breaks while on the road, as well as how others have repaired & improved the system. Have fun! Just my (humble) opinion....

EyezOpen · 12-19-2020, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoupsOn

Thanks for the diagram! I am printing/saving and creating digital and paper files of everything.

Definitely carb.

Licensing in Illinois, so no emissions test req.

One significant find of the day: the spark plug wire that had been eaten through by engine oil and was essentially hanging in the air, totally non-functional! That explains why it was 'missing' ! Ha! Yes, I heard it, so I feel good about being right. And yes, a complete tune-up is definitely in order.

however, after seeing her today, the jury is still out as to whether I'm going to be the one who saves her. The brand new battery was dead and it wouldn't jump (!). Of course, it was down to freezing last night, but still. Clearly some unknown item is switched on/ drawing from the battery. We have to get her started so he can (hopefully!) track down the culprit drawing down the battery. He teaches electrical systems, and it is a high experience/confidence area, for which I am incredibly grateful.

I learned that in my haste to do Anything to make it better last week, I put brake fluid into the power steering. Apparently the systems are interconnected and it doesn't even USE brake fluid!(?) Who knew there was such a thing!

NOT one of my finest moments. That's what I get for being in a rush and assuming the (well-intentioned, non-mechanic) person giving me advice (not here on iRV2!) knew enough. Instead of waiting for a mechanic to walk me through what I'm looking at. Sigh. It looked right and made sense at the time. Nothing like creating unnecessary extra work.
At least it's known. Ugh. I hate knowing just enough to be dangerous! bugger

Yes it is easy to get things crossed up at first, lol and brake fluid is quite different than power steering fluid. I have a link somewhere as to the original power steering fluid its cheap there..Ace hardware has it..anyplace else and its like liquid gold...ill post it later.

Now as to this deq thing your in luck....again i will post suggestions and some links for your info, do you have a timing light by chance?

ahh below and some history..

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...keyword=611504

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...steering-fluid

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th.../#post-2531248

SoupsOn · 12-20-2020, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EyezOpen

Now as to this deq thing your in luck....again i will post suggestions and some links for your info, do you have a timing light by chance?

I don't personally have a timing, but I am certain my mechanic will.

EyezOpen · 12-20-2020, 02:13 PM

Yes a timing light would be quite favorable for you, increased power and gas economy would be the results...and more than probably lower emissions if your emission controls are functioning properly...

For now, you have something called a heat riser, it needs to be functioning or disabled. Oversimplified it is a heat drain and heat plug, when the engine is cold there is a valve in the riser that closes to build up heat..its a cold-weather thing...Now when the engine heats up it opens and allows the exhaust gas to flow freely

It is very very bad for an engine if this heat riser is stuck/frozen shut, actually, it will destroy the engine. So what one does is get under the RV with a flashlight and move the valve to see if it opens and closes. If it does not...simply take some PB blaster and soak the mechanism for a day or two and cross your fingers that it will release..If it does not one forces the valve open and wires it open...or replace it with either a new riser or a riser that does not have the valving...This heat riser is 40 yr tech almost useless the links below give you some pics and thoughts. Note the vacuum line those lines need new lines or cut out of the system.

This is very easy thing to do...it may sound tough but it is not at all...and critical for a running engine.

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/aj5bx5g/

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/need...rt-507398.html

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f127/454...ne-140816.html