1995 Dometic fridge RM183 RM4233 3 way refrigerator flame out vent air holes

[Ctdub]

As always, every forum search engine I get all kinds of results. Nothing pertaining to a dometic refrigerator. Recently bought a starcraft pop-up 2000 model year, but the dometic fridge three-way is labeled 1995. Fridge works on 120v and 12V, but when I light the burner for propane, blue flame for a second or two (nice height <1 inch> looks normal) and then fire everywhere coming out of the air holes it appears. No rust in the burner. The flame spreads quickly from the burner all the way back to the right to the gas valve. Burned the hair off my hand.

On the outside door(s) it says RM183, but inside the label says RM4233

I removed the burner assembly and it looks perfectly clean. I can buy a new one for around $100, but not sure if it would be any different. I'm wondering if I have too much propane pressure or flow. I've adjusted the regulator tighter and looser and no difference. The tiny orifice at the beginning of the burner tube is in place. There's a threaded plug next to the outlet tube on the valve, but it's so tight in there I can't see if there's a way to adjust the flow. Or what to try. Tiny screwdriver, allen wrench?

The furnace seems to work okay with the propane pressure (I used it for four nights with cooler temps and the furnace worked perfect on and off at the right times). The hot water heater heated up and shut off perfectly fine. But the pilot light for the water heater is orange yellow and hits the plate above it and spreads out like there's too much flow. I have adjusted the pilot light and cannot get it any smaller. No blue flame. Not sure if this is an issue, or too much propane flow issue.

No stove came with the pop-up, so I adapted the propane hose to a Coleman two burner, and it's probably 10% flame compared to the little green bottle of propane. Definitely not too much flow for the stove. I've read that the Coleman etc stoves need higher pressure than a typical propane grill let's say.

[Argosy]

It sounds like the gas valve is leaking if it's burning there. Have you checked the fittings to see if they're tight and checked it with soapy water looking for bubbles?

[92LandYacht]

Also, check to make sure that the stack is clear of any obstructions. I usually use compressed air to clear all the passages on the appliances that use propane.

[Ctdub]

RV propane appliances are supposed to have 11 in of water column which equals about 0.5 PSI. A Coleman camp stove on the other hand needs 15 psi typically.

Based on the large pilot on my water heater, and the extra gas burning with my fridge, I'm thinking my regulator is not down to 0.5 psi. I'm going to replace the regulator, and have another regulator teed off at 15 PSI, with gauges. When I get those in place hopefully the gauge is sensitive enough to let me know if I have 0.5, or 1.5 etc

I'll update when I have some information. I did not check for gas leakage around the valve or burner tube on the fridge, but I could smell propane when I press the pilot light, and no smell prior to that. I have a sensor that I'll use when I put the burner back in

[Ctdub]

Finally found the problem. My regulator had too much pressure. I turned the adjustment in 5 turns and out 5 turns with no noticable effect. I kept thinking about my water heater pilot which seemed way too much/high after adjusting it down to it's lowest.

Took my regulator off my motorhome (that worked fine) and fridge flame was small, and blue, and no flare out of flames.

Pilot on water heater was lower and more blue.

Tee'd in a 20psi regulator adjustable with a new line (going to original propane stove coupler) going to my Coleman camp stove (needs 15psi vs camper appliances that need only 0.5psi).

Everything works as it should! Never expected a regulator to start putting out too much pressure. I didn't check the pressure, I just swapped in another RV regulator that I knew worked correctly

[Old-Biscuit]

LP System is 11"WC which is only 0.39 psi

Turning adjustment screw IN ...increases Regulator output
Turning adjustment screw Out... decreases Regulator output
*minor adjustments only and one should have a manometer hooked up when adjusting

RV Appliance gas valves are only rated for 0.5 psi
Pressures above 0.5 can damage the internal diaphragms

2000 pop-up trailer LP Reg........replacement was due

[Ctdub]

Thx all. Just to finish writing everything I checked

Using my propane leak tester, no leaks in the pop up lines, no leaks in either the fridge gas valve/lines, nor the water heater gas valve/lines.

Chimney was perfectly clean. Blew and sucked air up and down using shop vac. I expected rust or wasp nest etc. Something. Not a spec of rust in the burner, as mentioned in the 1st post I think. That's why I didn't think replacing the burner would change anything. It wouldn't have..

My cousin/mechanic has a manometer, but just went with the motorhome regulator that worked perfect to see if it made a difference. I put a new one on the motorhome. I'll get a new one for the pop up

Needed to change my auto change over regulator for my double wide.

My kitchen stove regulator started leaking (out the ambient temp/pressure seep hole; bad diaphragm), as did my camp stove regulator. I think regulators hate me!

I'm good to go now. My '91 Fleetwood Bounder motorhome is stationary on my property, won't drive it again. So I added a longer line with the new regulator so that a external hundred pound tank can be used. Extra bedroom, or can have winter visitors stay some here in FL