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Old 08-16-2021, 11:30 AM   #1
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1997 cruise control trouble shooting. Worth the read

First I’m sorry for the photos being out of sequence as I don’t know how to get them inline with the text


Here is a run around checklist to trouble shoot the cruise on my 1996 F53.
(Run around is an aviation term) the information came from various sources on the internet. If you steal from one source it’s called plagiarism, if you take from more than one source it’s called research!

My cruise module was located on the forward part of the engine compartment basically above the radiator on the driver’s side. I know nothing about any other RVs except mine which I’m a hell of a lot more familiar with than I wanted to be

Worked for me.

Possible Source(s):
Blown fuse.
Circuitry.
Stoplight switch.
Burnt stoplamp bulb.
Speed control actuator switch assembly.
Vehicle speed sensor. (Located either on ZF brake assembly or differential)
Speed control servo.
Action(s) to Take: GO to «A1» .

Connector photo shown below

A1
VERIFY THERE IS POWER TO SPEED CONTROL SERVO
Disconnect harness connector from the speed control servo (9C735).
Use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter*105-00001*or equivalent to make the specified measurements at the harness connector.
Use Rotunda Terminal Adapter Kit No.*105-00025*to avoid connector terminal damage.
With the ignition switch (11572) in RUN, measure voltage between Pin 7 (B+, Circuit 298) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
GO to «A3».
No
GO to «A2».

A2
CHECK MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
With ignition switch in OFF position, measure the resistance between Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901) and ground point on the chassis.
Is resistance less than 5 ohm?
Yes
GND is OK, power to Module may be open. Check Fuse E in Power Distribution Box and Circuit 298. TEST for normal operation. GO to «A3»
No
REPAIR open in ground Circuit 901. TEST for normal operation.

A3
CHECK FOR STUCK STOPLIGHT SWITCH
With no brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is the battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
Stoplight switch (13480) is stuck on. REPLACE stoplight switch.
No
Stoplight switch is not stuck on. GO to «A4».

A4
CHECK BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT
With the ignition switch in OFF position, measure the resistance between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 20 ohms?
Yes
Brake input Circuit OK. GO to «A5».
No
Brake light bulbs blown or brake circuit open. SERVICE circuit including clutch pedal position switch (CPP) (11A152).

A5
CHECK DEACTIVATOR CIRCUIT (AT MODULE CONNECTOR)
With ignition switch in OFF position, and with no brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 9 (deactivator, Circuit 307) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
GO to «A9».
No
No power from deactivator. GO to «A6».

A6
CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH (AT SWITCH)
Make sure Step A5 has been done.
Remove body harness connector from deactivator switch. Measure the resistance between the two pins of the deactivator switch with no brakes applied.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes
Deactivator switch OK. GO to «A7».
No
Deactivator switch defective. REPLACE switch. REPEAT Step «A5».

A7
VERIFY THERE IS POWER AT DEACTIVATOR HARNESS CONNECTOR
Measure voltage between Pin 1 (Circuit 10) of the deactivator switch harness connector and chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
Power at connector OK. GO to «A8».
No
SERVICE for blown fuse or open in deact circuit.

A8
CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT BETWEEN DEACTIVATOR SWITCH AND SERVO
Measure resistance from Pin 2 (Circuit 307) of deactivator switch and Pin 9 (DEACT) (Circuit 307) of service assembly of speed control servo.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes
REPEAT Step «A5».
No
Open in wire harness. SERVICE as required.

A9
CHECK FOR STUCK ON SWITCH
With no speed control actuator switches depressed, measure the voltage between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
REPLACE switch.
No
ON switch not stuck. GO to «A10».

A10
CHECK ON SWITCH OPERATION
With ignition switch in OFF position with steering wheel ON switch depressed, measure voltage between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes
ON switch OK. GO to «A12».
No
ON switch not functioning. GO to «A11».

A11
CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT IN "ON" SWITCH GROUND
Make sure Step A10 has been done.
With horn depressed, measure voltage between Pin 6 (Circuit 848) and*
chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12V nom.)?
Yes
REPLACE ON switch.
No
Open circuit or fuse in horn relay feed or open circuit in switch ground. SERVICE as required. REPEAT Step «A10».

A12
CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
With ignition switch in OFF position and with no steering wheel switches depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848).
Is resistance greater than 3k ohms?Yes
No stuck switches. GO to «A13».
No
One of the command switches is stuck. REPLACE switch.

A13
CHECK SET/ACCEL SWITCH OPERATION
With ignition switch in OFF position and with the SET/ACCEL switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848).
Is resistance approximately 680 ohms?
Yes
Switch is OK. GO to «A14».
No, less than 640 or greater than 720 ohms
Switch not functioning. REPLACE switch.

A14
VERIFY SPEED SIGNAL
Operate vehicle by raising the rear wheels. Set speed at 30 mph. Use an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage between Pin 3 (SPEED SIG, Circuit 679) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is voltage reading 4-5 volts?
Yes
Speed signal OK. GO to «A15».
No
SERVICE Programmable Speedometer/Odometer. GO to «Section 13-01A».

A15
CHECK FOR BROKEN OR BOUND ACTUATOR CABLE
Remove speed control actuator from speed control servo. Check for broken speed control actuator by pulling on speed control actuator and noting throttle movement.
Is speed control actuator OK?
Yes
REPLACE speed control servo.
No
SERVICE




Fuse block shown below
Fuse/CB/Relay Ampere rating [A] Description
1 15 Cigarette lighter
2 20 Daytime running lamps (Canadian vehicles only), flash-to-pass
3 20 Horn
4 20 Body builder battery (+12) feed
5 15 Back-up lamps, blower relay coil, heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor (HEGO)
6 10 Speed control
7 — Not used
8 — Not used
9 — Not used
10 — Not used
11 30 maxi Starter relay coil
12 Diode Powertrain control module
13 20 Electronic engine control system, fuel pump relay coil
14 60 maxi Ignition switch feed
15 — Not used
16 50 Blower motor
17 60 maxi Headlamps, marker lamps, programmable speedometer/odometer module (PSOM)
18 20 maxi Fuel pump feed
19 — Not used
20 — Not used
21 — Not used
21 20 maxi Distributor puckup, powertrain control module, ignition coil, thick film integrated ignition system (TFI)
Relay #1 Powertrain control module
Relay #2 Fuel pump relay
Relay #3 Horn relay
Relat #4 Blower motor relay
WARNING:*Terminal and harness assignments for individual connectors will vary depending on vehicle equipment level, model, and market.


I used a two leg puller to pull the steering wheel. Two ways of doing things, the right way and the other way.


The 1997 and earlier models used slip rings with copper brushes as shown in the second photo. I believe clock springs were introduced in 1999 (unverified)

I used CRC electrical contact cleaner and a tooth brush to clean the old grease off the ring and brushes. After cleaning I recoated with dielectric grease. I used a Q-tip to reapply. Make sure there is no trace between the rings. The grease is a conductor.

Replacement parts are no longer available except on used eBay.
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Old 08-18-2021, 08:13 AM   #2
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Correction; dielectric grease is NOT a conductor.
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Old 08-18-2021, 09:41 PM   #3
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Somewhat topical for me as I'm troubleshooting an intermittent disengagement. Given you mention clock spring, is your CC controlled w/ steering wheel buttons vs. turn signal stalk?
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Old 08-19-2021, 07:10 AM   #4
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The Ford f53 has the buttons on the steering wheel. If you have a Chevrolet your cruise control is on a stalk which I know nothing about. My 2016 GMC has cruise on the wheel. I know GM products used stalks in 2006. The trouble shooting I posted is Ford specific.

Is that your Vultee BT13 your standing in front of?
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Old 08-19-2021, 01:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Glanton View Post
The Ford f53 has the buttons on the steering wheel. If you have a Chevrolet your cruise control is on a stalk which I know nothing about. My 2016 GMC has cruise on the wheel. I know GM products used stalks in 2006. The trouble shooting I posted is Ford specific.

Is that your Vultee BT13 your standing in front of?
Yeah I have never driven our RV so I had to go look where the CC was. Pulled the wheel today to clean those contacts although they looked fairly clean. The brake switch on mine seems fine (didn't pull out the DVOM yet to confirm but looks good). I don't think mine had that recall harness at the master based on this pic (Opinion?) .

That is not my aircraft, it was taken at a fly in at I believe LGB. Just got back from the OSH show last week too, that one was the best I've seen.

Dave

Dave
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Old 08-19-2021, 08:25 PM   #6
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Hi Dave, one of the problems that is created is when people replace the brake lights with LED bulbs. I would not think that your problem if it works intermittent. What you might try is to take all the connectors loose and spray them with CRC and reseat them. I would do this several times to knock any corrosion off. Weird things happen to old connectors. You are right, I don’t believe the service bulletin has been done. I would think a Ford dealer should do it for free. You might also CRC the taillight bulbs. The cruise is sensitive to any voltage drops.

The procedure I outlined is fairly straightforward with a volt meter.

Let me know if this helps.
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Old 08-19-2021, 09:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Glanton View Post
Hi Dave, one of the problems that is created is when people replace the brake lights with LED bulbs. I would not think that your problem if it works intermittent. What you might try is to take all the connectors loose and spray them with CRC and reseat them. I would do this several times to knock any corrosion off. Weird things happen to old connectors. You are right, I don’t believe the service bulletin has been done. I would think a Ford dealer should do it for free. You might also CRC the taillight bulbs. The cruise is sensitive to any voltage drops.

The procedure I outlined is fairly straightforward with a volt meter.

Let me know if this helps.
Yeah I'm familiar w/ the issue w/ LEDS. In fact I have LEDS throughout the entire RV at this point w/ an LED flasher. If i can duplicate the problem at will CONSISTENTLY by turning on the parking lights or the turn signal then I am fairly sure that's where I should start. I was actually going to temp put an incandescent bulb in one of the rear tail lights as I hear that those are the ones that are the most problematic but the person giving me the failure info advised me that it doesn't in fact just do it w/ lights on or turn signals. She also didn't mention it doing it when it hit a bump but I'll have to whip out my DVOM and test that at some point to make sure. I've gone through most of the wiring on this thing already and confirmed I had good grounds back there just to be safe. So the cruise is looking for a voltage DROP to disengage? I thought there was some type of current issue due to LEDs being so low current and them partially illuminating on occasion triggering the cruise to think brake lights were on and shutting it off? I need to go through that schematic a bit more later but you'd think a pedal brake light switch would be enough to determine brake being pressed rather than monitoring voltage and or current.

And by all connectors are you referring to the bulbs? I've replaced all bulbs w/ LEDS at this point and any corroded sockets were replaced. I did notice that there are very few actual plugs along these harnesses. There is one 10ish wire plug that feeds the entire back of the RV and it's right near the diff. From there it's a homerun back up front. I have had that 10 ish pin plug apart and it looked clean.

As an aside when I got a trailer hooked up to this thing I noticed they had swapped the L/R signal wiring at what I have to believe is the factory as these terminals are just held in by set screws. Then delving further I noticed that when I had the trailer hooked up and a signal on the opposite side would flash very dimly. I ran a test ground all the way from that harness all the way to the battery just to ensure I didn't have a hokey ground but that didn't fix it. I ended up putting in a resistor between Ground and left and Ground and Right inside of the trailer harness (chassis side as there was room) to resolve that. I forget the value I used but it was an 1/8W resistor. I just got out my homemade decade resistance box and started playing until I got the dim flashing to go away and used the nearest resistor up from there. Been fine ever since. Not that that is related to this in any way.
Dave
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