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11-01-2021, 09:39 PM
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#57
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 5
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https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/fuel-pump-electric-module-assembly/ford~f53.html?3593=575038
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11-02-2021, 05:33 AM
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#58
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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I’ve had trouble with Airtex on another application but this may very well be a good solution for those whose hanger and fuel level sender is still in good condition. At least it gives an option. How long has yours been installed? (I had an after market pump (not Airtex) fail on the first trip at about 250 miles. I realize OEM can also fail.)
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Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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11-02-2021, 08:33 AM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 2,975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1997_pace
so you do not think the delphi will work.
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According to the information given us here on the forum, it does not appear to be a proper pump for the application. No. It may "work" to some degree though.
The pump assembly or "hanger" is what's giving some fits. Once one of those has been found that works acceptably then you could always swap whatever pump is in it for a more suitable Walbro pump. Like maybe this one-
https://walbrofuelpumps.com/ford-f53...-cyl-7-5l.html
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11-03-2021, 08:26 PM
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#60
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panda3
I recommend getting some gasket maker for the seal of the new pump to the tank as the new pumps gasket is too small, and the old pump gasket is too big. Also the hardest part of putting the fuel tank back for us was reinstalling the fuel pump fill tubing back to the tank. We used two ratcheting straps one at the front and one at the back to lift the tank off the ground and suspended in place to reattach that pipe. After that is was as simple as ratcheting the tank all the way back up and bolting it back together.
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So did this work?
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11-08-2021, 03:58 PM
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#61
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1997_pace
So did this work?
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It doesn't work. She isn't holding pressure the way she needs to because the pump is significantly less psi. I'm waiting on the inline pump to arrive. Installing that with the pump already on the tank should work fine. Will update again when I can.
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11-10-2021, 04:57 PM
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#62
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 46
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the pump is back on the market Motorcraft-PFS48 Fuel Sender buy it now!!
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11-10-2021, 08:18 PM
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#63
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 46
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I just purchased my own on amazon
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11-10-2021, 09:49 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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That is really good news. I’ve put over 1500 trouble-free miles on the PFS48 I purchased a few months ago.
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Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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11-11-2021, 07:33 AM
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#65
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 46
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So it is working well then correct?
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11-11-2021, 06:35 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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Yes it is the OEM unit and works well. I’ve read where some had problems but that happens with all products. I’m 100% pleased with mine. (And I’m a perfectionist when it comes to this kind of thing. I don’t want trouble, I want to be able to drive it and forget it is back there.)
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Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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11-11-2021, 06:38 PM
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#67
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 46
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Do you know by any chance how to wire it up..
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11-11-2021, 06:49 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 2,975
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If it's a "three wire" it's not hard to sort out. One wire is just ground, another a variable ground that is the fuel gauge sender, and the last is powered up when you turn the key on to run the fuel pump. Colors I don't recall, but "Subford" has been kind enough to post a few copies of the factory wiring diagrams in various places on this forum.
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11-11-2021, 07:18 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 847
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It will come with a wiring diagram, at least mine did. And if not, it really isn’t hard to sort out. Subford’s info is available, and we can help you if need be. If yours is three wires, you will hook the ground to the two grounds and one wire goes to the pump and one to the fuel level sender. I think it will be largely obvious to you when you get into it but as GypsyR pointed out you can find out which is the + pump wire by measuring with power on from the ignition switch. Do be careful, you are working around open gasoline and with fumes coming out. I kept a fire extinguisher at hand at all times and was careful not to do anything that might cause a spark. You would do well to sort it out before you take the pump out of the tank so you don’t have the fire hazard while messing with the wiring. You will likely have to butt splice a wire or two. The splices are outside the tank and you can use form-a-gasket to waterproof the splices if you want to. In my case, someone had already adapted the three wire to four wire. I just ran a new ground to the frame and spliced it into the ground wires to get my voltage up where it should be.
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Marvin (and Eileen) - 1997 34’ Gas Bounder / 1996 F53 Chassis | Towing 1996 Ford Ranger on Acme Dolly
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11-12-2021, 06:45 AM
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#70
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 46
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In the picture the new pump has 4 wires. Red, red/black, black, yellow
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