1999 Fleetwood Storm 29V

[howieaz2003]

Hello,
Just a brief history about the ’99 Fleetwood Storm 29V I bought from auction,
1. Spent $2100 and bought this coach from auction
2. Disclaimer said engine and tranny issues
3. Engine problem was a cat converter; tranny needed to be rebuilt
4. No more than 150 miles into my trip back home from Pasco WA to Phoenix, the tranny felt like it was slipping. The RPM’s would suddenly rev up to 5,500+ rpms; then drop back down to 3500 rpms. This consistently happened for 700 miles.
5. Detoured to my son’s place outside Salt Lake City.
6. Found a tranny specialist in Salt Lake. He said the tranny the guy put in in Pasco was a junkyard tranny. Many of the components was burned or worn out.
7. New re-build put in.
8. Guess what, same darn thing...at 50+mph, tranny would rev from 3500 and jump up to almost 6,000 rpm’s
9.Took the motorhome back to Salt Lake shop. He’s puzzled. He thought maybe it is a computer problem. Now he thinks it’s a wiring issue. Not to mention there a several codes showing up. One of which is the O2 sensor.

I am considering having the coach re-wired. Not sure how much that would cost. Just not sure it’s worth throwing any more money at the problem.

I would be interested in anyones thoughts, including if this same problem has happened to you.
Thank you for your time. Forgive me for the long message!
My Best to ALL!

[D Gardiner]

Originally Posted by howieaz2003

Hello,
Just a brief history about the ’99 Fleetwood Storm 29V I bought from auction,
1. Spent $2100 and bought this coach from auction
2. Disclaimer said engine and tranny issues
3. Engine problem was a cat converter; tranny needed to be rebuilt
4. No more than 150 miles into my trip back home from Pasco WA to Phoenix, the tranny felt like it was slipping. The RPM’s would suddenly rev up to 5,500+ rpms; then drop back down to 3500 rpms. This consistently happened for 700 miles.
5. Detoured to my son’s place outside Salt Lake City.
6. Found a tranny specialist in Salt Lake. He said the tranny the guy put in in Pasco was a junkyard tranny. Many of the components was burned or worn out.
7. New re-build put in.
8. Guess what, same darn thing...at 50+mph, tranny would rev from 3500 and jump up to almost 6,000 rpm’s

My guess. The first transmission may have been a rebuilt unit. Possibly not rebuilt by the shop, but a rebuilt exchange unit.

If the transmission was slipping (intermittently) allowing the engine to rev from 3500 to 5500-6000 rpm, that alone will burn clutches and drums. It will cook components in a hurry.

Originally Posted by howieaz2003

9.Took the motorhome back to Salt Lake shop. He’s puzzled. He thought maybe it is a computer problem. Now he thinks it’s a wiring issue. Not to mention there a several codes showing up. One of which is the O2 sensor.

The O2 sensor code would not cause a transmission issue. What other codes did the shop find. Plus, did the shop clear those codes and retest to see 'which' codes reappeared?

There can be wiring issues. Doubt you will find a harness, but you should have the connectors checked. Often you will find corrosion at the pins. Depending on how bad the corrosion is, will determine if a cleaning with Deoxit D5, or if you will need a new connector with pins.

You may also find an internal transmission wires to the shift solenoids. The shop should know how to test, source and or replace these harness in the tranny.

Had a bad solenoid block in our transmission which was causing hard shifts, and three different transmission codes. BTW, shift solenoids can and often will test perfect cold on the bench, but fail intermittently when the transmission is at operating temperature. Ask me how I know.

Also did the SLC shop clean out the transmission cooler lines and the cooler. Debris in the cooler lines can also kill transmissions in a hurry.

Originally Posted by howieaz2003

I am considering having the coach re-wired. Not sure how much that would cost. Just not sure it’s worth throwing any more money at the problem.

I would be interested in anyones thoughts, including if this same problem has happened to you.
Thank you for your time. Forgive me for the long message!
My Best to ALL!

Before you through money, or parts at the problem (the shot gun approach) have a shop diagnosis the issue first.

Also, are we talking about a P32 Chevrolet/Workhorse? Ford F53? Etcetera.
Will give us more to work on, and consider.

Lastly, the second shop should be able to in-house disassemble and rebuild the transmission. If not, you may want to find a shop that can do that, with a good tech who can do a proper diagnostic.

[GypsyR]

Pretty odd. Most shops have scanners that not only read the basic codes but can stream data from the computer to a screen so someone can watch to see exactly what the transmission is doing when the issue occurs and also likely suss out what's giving it fits.

With only the bare info you've given it sounds like the transmission isn't slipping but arbitrarily downshifting. The causes for that are pretty much all external to the transmission. IE, a faulty throttle position sensor can tell the computer that you just floored the throttle when in fact you are just cruising. If it downshifts far enough at a good speed the lower gear ratios will just overrun (to keep the engine from blowing). Overunning can seem like "slipping".

Main point would be to widen the scope away from the transmission. An unfortunate number of transmissions have been replaced only for the owner to find the exact same problem still exists. Indicating pretty darn clearly that though the effect of it is felt in the transmission, the actual cause of the problem resides elsewhere.
I hate to blame stuff on "the computer" but it happens that older Ford PCM's are known to sprout issues due to leaking old capacitors on the circuit board. One symptom I have seen of that is a transmission downshifting and upshifting at incorrect times. Google or Youtube "Ford leaking PCM capacitors" for more info. Not every mechanic may know about them.

[Traygar]

I just stumbled onto this thread, and I don't have experience with your RV, BUT, I may have experience in your problem. I once had a 90's Lincoln Mark VIII that started randomly revving up while driving. It was annoying a heck, and embarrassing on the highway, because that motor was loud when it revved up like that. It turned out to be the "neutral safety switch". It mounts onto the side of the transmission. When it goes bad, that's the way it behaves. It was an old country mechanic who finally figured it out. Maybe that's not your issue, but it may be a simple fix if it is.

[Argosy]

Was the torque converter replaced when it was rebuilt?

When it revs does it start loosing speed/power?

[1972VWbus]

What trans model 4L80E, Allison etc...


If the 4L80E check the harness connector on the side of the trans. There should be no signs of trans fluid if you unplug it.

[GypsyR]

I've been going with it being a 4R100 or E4OD. (Ford chassis.)

[howieaz2003]

It’s the Ford F53. The shop owner is convinced after taking the tranny apart again, that it is the Power Control Module. He is having one flown in from the east coast. Actually should be there today. If he’s right, he thinks most, if not all of the dummy lights will go away. And with some luck, maybe be the answer for the wipers not working.

[howieaz2003]

The torque converter was replaced. It does lose speed when the tranny revs up. The shop owner thinks the power control module will solve the problem.

[howieaz2003]

Interesting! The shop owner found a pcm on the east coast. Nothing in the west coast. Hopefully the pcm will be there today. Thanks for you thoughts!

[GypsyR]

Don't throw the old PCM out. If it does have the issue with leaky capacitors a kit of all needed to repair it is only fifteen dollars. And anyone who can solder electronic type stuff can replace them. (I've done it.)

[howieaz2003]

I finally found a PCM that is hopefully the correct one in New York. They took the VIN# from me and are programming it accordingly. A couple of dumb questions:
1. Anyone know where the PCM is located on this coach?
2. I know it’s plug n’play. But is it difficult to get the PCM in place?
3. How will I know if it’s working? I guess take it for a drive?
Thanks again to everyone who has previously commented and to those who are new to the thread.