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03-24-2016, 01:53 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 11
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88 Jayco Restoration Project
Hello all,
New guy here from Alaska and Im going to be restoring an 88 Jayco Class C. Little back story on the RV...
My dad bought this from the first owner back in the early 90s and we took it on multiple trips across the country from Alaska to as far east as Montreal. My dad ended up giving me the RV back in 2010 and due to life being the way it is, I ended up having to store it at a friends house where it sat neglected for 4 years. A year ago I finally got back on my feet and found a place with RV parking and I moved the Jayco to where I currently live. Anyway my old man died this past July and seeing how this camper was his baby, I've made it my mission bring this thing back from the sorry state its currently in.
The RV (or iRV that I call it) has around 80,000 miles on it.
Its on a Ford E350 chassis with a 460 and C6 transmission that both seem to be mechanically sound, other than a leaky transmission pan (I'll get to that later though).
The first thing I'm going to be doing is making this thing water tight. The roof developed some leaks which unfortunately made their way inside the coach. I'm about halfway through removing the old dicor from the roof seams, which hasn't been a fun process btw haha.
Anyway my plan for the aluminum roof is this...
Remove all the old sealant from the seams and around vents and such.
Apply new dicor.
Apply an elastomeric sealant over the whole shebang. I also have some eternabond tape that I was planning on laying over the seams after I lay down the dicor and roof sealant.
Well that's the plan anyway. What do you guys think? Advice or opinions would be appreciated, thanks guys and gals!
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03-25-2016, 04:33 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club Oklahoma Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bartlesville Oklahoma
Posts: 1,300
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Sounds like you have a plan going, don't forget the pictures. The people here like lots of pictures. Look forward on viewing your progress.
__________________
1996 Damon DayBreak 454 P37 Chassis
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03-25-2016, 10:49 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifemember
Sounds like you have a plan going, don't forget the pictures. The people here like lots of pictures. Look forward on viewing your progress.
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Yep, I'll see if I can get some pics up this evening...
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03-25-2016, 10:53 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 11
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So I'm currently resealing the tail and clearance lights, but a couple screws on the clearance lights are rusted and the heads snapped off when I tried to remove them...good times!
Does anyone know a good method for removing broken off screws...?
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03-25-2016, 11:48 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sierra Vista AZ for now...
Posts: 567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88jayco
So I'm currently resealing the tail and clearance lights, but a couple screws on the clearance lights are rusted and the heads snapped off when I tried to remove them...good times!
Does anyone know a good method for removing broken off screws...?
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If these are wood or sheet metal screws you might try grabbing them from the other side with a vice grips and unscrew them that way. FWIW I'm envisioning the screws that hold my running lights onto my RV's fiberglass end caps, of course yours may differ.
Steve
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03-25-2016, 12:40 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geocritter
If these are wood or sheet metal screws you might try grabbing them from the other side with a vice grips and unscrew them that way. FWIW I'm envisioning the screws that hold my running lights onto my RV's fiberglass end caps, of course yours may differ.
Steve
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Good idea, I hadn't thought of that. The clearance lights are aft of the rear storage bins, I'll open them up and feel around in there. Hopefully there's enough screw to get a pair of pliers on...
I'm really hoping the screws on every light arent as corroded as the aft ones. I have a feeling they're going to be though.
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03-25-2016, 02:45 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club Oklahoma Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bartlesville Oklahoma
Posts: 1,300
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If that does not work spray WD 40 on them and dig into the wood a little grab with pliers. If all else fails, drill out and fill with epoxy putty and install new screws when dry.
__________________
1996 Damon DayBreak 454 P37 Chassis
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03-26-2016, 07:33 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 5,525
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I agree with the OP'sters, and I will add I have been replacing all the exterior screws with stainless.
Tim
__________________
1982 Pace Arrow P30 454
KarKaddy SS, Toad: 2009 Genesis
Tim, Joe and Lilly too. Mpls Minn.
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03-26-2016, 07:49 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Northeastern Nebraska
Posts: 969
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__________________
06 forest river Cardinal 34 TS towed by 03 freightliner Columbia HDT 435 hp 60 series Detroit, 10 speed, 3:55 gears with full locker. 260 inch wheel base. I am a Father, Farmer, and A Trucker.
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03-29-2016, 11:05 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spritz
I agree with the OP'sters, and I will add I have been replacing all the exterior screws with stainless.
Tim
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Yep, I came to the same conclusion. All exterior hardware will be replaced with stainless...I don't want to do this again haha.
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03-29-2016, 11:40 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 11
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It's been rather rainy here the last week so I haven't been able to get much done on iRV. Today I was able to get the tail lights caulked and start on caulking the ladder connection points.
And unfortunately, the screws on the clearance lights don't penetrate, so backing them out with pliers from the back side is a no go. I've been thinking of just buying some larger clearance lights to replace the old ones with so I can just drill new holes and be done with it.
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03-29-2016, 11:40 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: anywhere U.S.A, Currently back home in Thailand!
Posts: 4,245
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I used a elastomeric roof coating I got from Menard's many years ago on a 1974 Shasta class A, and it worked very good! Can't remember if I used the Dicor self leveling sealant before or after putting the roof coating down? I think before, after I cleaned and removed all the old stuff, then covered the whole thing with the roof coating! Rail!
__________________
Retired, and "Always on Holiday!"
1996 Monaco Windsor 38PB, "Mona" 275 HP., 8.3 Cummins, 3060 Allison 6 speed, 2001 PT Cruiser, "Bailey"
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03-29-2016, 11:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 145
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Try using a dermal tool to cut a notch in what is left of the screw and use a straight blade screwdriver to remove it, also some rust removal spray on them .
__________________
Mike, Liz and Zeeva (Chihuahua) in a 1993 Fleetwood 29 foot Coronado, living the RV life in the Great Land of Alaska
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