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nickv1940 · 01-24-2018, 09:22 PM

[moderator edit]

I recently purchased a 1985 31 ft Winnebago Chieftain. It doesn't have an auxiliary battery and the 120 VAC system 12 VDC power supply doesn't work so I don't have any 12 VDC to run the inside lights etc. I am presently hooked up to the RV site 120 VAC hookup.

I am not planning to go anywhere with the RV in the near future (it doesn't have an engine or auxiliary generator fuel tanks).

I am thinking about using a 120 VAC to 12 VDC power supply in place of an auxiliary battery (since the 120 VAC system can't charge a battery). Can anyone give me any tips relative to my plan and, also, what should the amperage of the DC power supply be.

BFlinn181 · 01-24-2018, 09:28 PM

I think a 12v deep cycle battery and a good maintenance type charger would be a better use of your money. It would take a very pure 12v power supply to replace a battery. You could add up the various amp needs of your 12v lights, pumps, refrigerator, water heater, furnace, etc. to get an estimate of the power supply capacity you'd need. A battery would provide flexible, pure 12v DC power and a good charger will keep it in good shape for a long time.

ByeTheWay · 01-24-2018, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickv1940

Can't find my thread so I'll try again.

I recently purchased a 1985 31 ft Winnebago Chieftain. It doesn't have an auxiliary battery and the 120 VAC system 12 VDC power supply doesn't work so I don't have any 12 VDC to run the inside lights etc. I am presently hooked up to the RV site 120 VAC hookup.

I am not planning to go anywhere with the RV in the near future (it doesn't have an engine or auxiliary generator fuel tanks).

I am thinking about using a 120 VAC to 12 VDC power supply in place of an auxiliary battery (since the 120 VAC system can't charge a battery). Can anyone give me any tips relative to my plan and, also, what should the amperage of the DC power supply be.

I'm really confused. What do you mean by an auxiliary battery?
And if you have no engine, is this a park model? I get the idea you are trying to charge a battery to supply 12v to your existing lights. Is that correct?

RockyMtnRide · 01-24-2018, 09:41 PM

I think I understand what you are trying to do and it should work. Find the fuse panel where the house batteries were connected. Not the chassis stuff i.e. headlights, etc. Then tie in the power supply output. Basics would be lights, furnace control board, refrigerator control board, hot water heater control board and fans.

BFlinn181 · 01-24-2018, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ByeTheWay

I'm really confused. What do you mean by an auxiliary battery?
And if you have no engine, is this a park model? I get the idea you are trying to charge a battery to supply 12v to your existing lights. Is that correct?

I was guessing 'auxiliary battery' meant House battery since the OP mentioned 'inside lights.' Also, the OP said his '12v power supply' doesn't work. If he's talking about a converter/charger, it needs a battery hooked up to it to work properly. Perhaps if he hooked up a battery to it and reset all breakers or fuses on it, it might work.

RockyMtnRide · 01-24-2018, 09:46 PM

I don’t think he wants to mess with batteries or an inverter/ Charger. He can tie an industrial linear power supply 120 vac in/12 vdc out. Permanent non moving park model

Apostman · 01-24-2018, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRide

I don’t think he wants to mess with batteries or an inverter/ Charger. He can tie an industrial linear power supply 120 vac in/12 vdc out. Permanent non moving park model

Humph, I guess. I found a 120ac>12vdc 300w (watts) @ $85. So (3) gives 900 watts.

Now I have a brain cramp

nickv1940 · 01-24-2018, 10:49 PM

Thanks Bob and Donna. I was thinking about a Powersonic 12 volt 7 Ah battery for $20 and a Schauer Charge Master battery charger for $90 ($110 total). The power supply would be a MEAN WELL SE-600-12 AC to DC Power Supply, Single Output, 12V, 50 Amp for $76. Its half of one but six of the other. The power supply just seemed simpler and a little less expensive. Since it mostly lights I don't thing power quality is critical.

nickv1940 · 01-24-2018, 11:00 PM

As you might suspect - I am new to the RV world. What I am calling an auxiliary battery you might refer to as a house battery.

If the DC power supply requires a house battery to work properly that might solve my problem in the cheapest way. Thanks for the input, I will try it.

nickv1940 · 01-24-2018, 11:05 PM

Your right, at present, with no engine fuel tank, it is a non-moving park model. When we need to move it for very short distances, we have to strap a fuel container to the outside of the RV and stick the fuel pump inlet line into the outside tank.

I haven't been able to locate an engine fuel tank so I got the fuel tank drawings from Winnebago and am thinking about possibly having one custom made.

nickv1940 · 01-24-2018, 11:07 PM

Sorry for the brain cramp. I indicated the power supply I am thinking about in my response to another post. The reason I wanted to know the requisite amperage is that the lower the amperage the lower the power supply cost.

BFlinn181 · 01-24-2018, 11:28 PM

Just remember, 12v is the 'lifeblood' of the RV. No lights, hot water, furnace, A/C, or refrigerator without 12v. That's another reason I suggested a battery, it'll work when the 120v is interrupted.

twinboat · 01-25-2018, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickv1940

As you might suspect - I am new to the RV world. What I am calling an auxiliary battery you might refer to as a house battery.

If the DC power supply requires a house battery to work properly that might solve my problem in the cheapest way. Thanks for the input, I will try it.

If its using a converter/charger, it will not need a battery connected. The nature of a converter is that it converts 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC.

If it is using an inverter/charger, your going to need a battery. Battery chargers need a battery to to charge.

Before buying a new converter, take a look at yours. Most of them have a pair of fuses that blow it the cables are cross connected, even for a second. They should be right on the converter.

This is from a big converter company.

The Progressive Dynamics 9100 Series INTELI-POWER converters*are UL listed for the US and Canada. They provide safe, reliable, filtered DC power to all Recreational Vehicle 12-Volt lighting and appliance circuits. The Inteli-Power converter also safely recharges and maintains the RV battery and has a two-year limited warranty.

This is from IOTA.
The*DLS-55*Power Converter/Battery Charger from IOTA Engineering converts nominal 108-132 AC voltage to 13.4 DC voltage for both DC load operation and 12V battery charging.

As a*power supply, the unit's tightly controlled regulation allows the user to operate a nominal 12VDC load up to 55 amps.

You can see that charging a battery is a secondary function on a converter.

nickv1940 · 01-26-2018, 01:01 AM

Today I purchased house battery from Walmart and installed it. The interior lights work but I am not sure yet how much else. I also purchased a battery charger on line to charge the engine battery (we started the drive engine of the RV a lot without recharging it) and also to charge the house battery (if I can't get the power converter working). (I will check fuses as recommended).

The battery charge is a "Schauer Charge Master CM12A Automatic Charger Desulfator: 12 Volt, 1/8/12 Amp". I intend to power the charger from an RV 120 VAC wall socket and to keep the charger continually connected to the house battery to trickle charge it and prevent it from getting drained.

Anyone see a problem with that plan?

As an aside, my Winnebago has four light bulbs over the bathroom sink which turned on when I installed the house battery. For the life of me I can't find a switch to turn them off so I unscrewed them since the're draining the house battery.

Is the light switch hidden in a location I haven't found or are the lights intended to be always on?