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Old 05-25-2021, 05:38 PM   #1
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Bearings 1976 Dodge MB300

Hi. New to RVing, but not new to classics. Rear bearings need replaced but how do I determine part numbers or proper replacements when at parts stores? Thanks.

1976 class c Brougham on Dodge chassis
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Old 05-25-2021, 06:16 PM   #2
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Welcome to iRV2 .

I started working at a Chrysler / Dodge in 1975 .
There should be no issues with bearing supply , all the bearings you remove will have part numbers on them .Seals can be an issue .
Always look for the oldest parts man at any place you buy parts , he's the one that will know where to find what you're after.

Are you just working on rear, full floating hub bearings , or are you having to dig into pinion and carrier bearings in the differential ?
In the case of carrier and pinion bearings and races ; DO NOT loose track of which shims go where , or you will spend hours/days trying to get the gear pattern back .
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Old 05-25-2021, 07:13 PM   #3
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Hi Skip I was hoping to hear from you as I read some of your history in replies to other questions. Thanks for your willingness to share your knowledge. I've never messed with a Dana 60, but most shops are backed up for a month here. Thinking of doing the outer hub bearings myself

Thanks again .
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Old 05-25-2021, 07:47 PM   #4
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There are two different types of floating hub retaining nuts that your chassis could have , that require some special treatment as far as resetting the new bearing preload .
After 14 years retired I won't trust the torque set up of either type to memory , I'll see if I can dig up a pdf . Do you have a local auto parts store with rental tools ?
A 2 9/16 " socket can be hard to come by .
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:50 PM   #5
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I will ask for that socket. I'm glad I didn't just remove the bearings and torque them to feel
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Old 05-26-2021, 09:36 AM   #6
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There are two different sockets , depending on previous service of the bearings .
A 6 point ; 2 9/16" and a rounded corner version , when a single spindle locking nut was introduced , many times the double nut ( 6 point with lock ring ) was discarded, and the new locking nut installed ; so you won't know what socket you need till you have the axle out , and it could be different side to side . .
The site below has good info on parts .
There is a U tube video on the replacement , but somehow I have issue with the poster not extracting a broken axle flange bolt before assembly.
Several different nut torque numbers online , but none agree with my memory so still working on that .

The bearings and inner seal we'd pack with grease ( on the seal; to hold the lip tension spring in place during install ) install the hub , pump gear oil into the cavity inside the outer bearing race, then put the outer bearing in ; ( the bearing being packed kept the gear oil contained during the , nut torque sequence .

http://www.torqueking.com/1972-1993-...-applications/

When I find the nut torque info I'll repost.
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Old 05-27-2021, 05:48 PM   #7
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Thanks for your input Skip. I am sure this won't be the last I ask of you. I've decided to have an ASE mechanic change them out as can deal with most other problems outside the potential for an axle fire...
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