Can electrical ever be simple??

[6x16inside]

I put the large round fuse in way back in the 4th post under the photos to no avail. Brand new.

[Tidy Tabby]

We have a flasher issue as well, just on one side. All new fuses and flashers did not change anything, started tracing wire and lo and behold we found remnants of some little varmint which had taken up residence (I am using the past tense in the hope it is not still there, no bites yet!) behind our shower where part of the harness runs. By making a jumper I was able to get the flashers working all around, meaning that bugger chewed through a couple of wires.
As others have suggested, get a circuit tester AND and good multimeter (Harbor Freight or any auto parts store will have these) as well as wire stripping tool, a roll of wire and some connectors. Figure out what fuse controls your flashers, make a jumper wire to run from there all the way back to the non working taillights (oh yeah, make sure they have have new bulbs in them, bulbs are cheap) and see if they light up. If yes, you need to find the break in the wiring harness. Taillight circuits typically have three wires, low wattage for when your lights are on a night, high wattage for brake lights & turn signals/hazards, and a ground. Your wiring diagram will indicate what color wires you should see. Easy way to tell is two of the wires will be the same on both the left and the right (ground and low watt), the third wire will be different on either side because obviously you would need a different wire if your left or right turn signal is on.
Good luck.

[6x16inside]

Is unhooking the battery ABSOLUTELY necessary?? This things battery (brand new now) was insanely placed WAY up high in the drivers side corner and literally has MAYBE a 1 inch clearance. Having to deal with hooking and unhooking every time I do some small check will be the end of me, LOL

[Tidy Tabby]

I wouldn't unhook the battery while testing electrical systems, in fact it is better to have them in place and hooked up so you can turn the ignition switch and test circuits with power.

[BA-in-Mich]

It seems to me, there should be more fuses. Is there another block some where? that might have the flasher unit on it.

[6x16inside]

Found another fuse panel and the breaker box under the stove


(and my clean water "tank" under the bed)

[6x16inside]

Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby

started tracing wire and lo and behold we found remnants of some little varmint which had taken up residence

Yeah, I've got mouse droppings and not sure if the destroyed wires coming out of the kwikee steps were from it or not since that is outside.

[6x16inside]

Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich

It seems to me, there should be more fuses. Is there another block some where? that might have the flasher unit on it.

Or this? (which Auto zone doesn't have)

[6x16inside]

These are the side marker lights and presumably hazard lights. One side has a red wire and a green wire cut, the other side is completely different.
And the bulb does not appear to be a twist out lending me to wonder if this whole encasement is not something that would be bought as a whole?
One or both did light but didn't flash.

[Tidy Tabby]

Originally Posted by 6x16inside

Found another fuse panel and the breaker box under the stove Attachment 159453
Attachment 159452

(and my clean water "tank" under the bed)

That is your "House" panel and fuses, for plugs and A/C and whatnot. That shouldn't have anything to do with your chassis wiring and exterior running lights and flashers.

[Tidy Tabby]

Originally Posted by 6x16inside

Attachment 159484
Attachment 159485
Attachment 159486

These are the side marker lights and presumably hazard lights. One side has a red wire and a green wire cut, the other side is completely different.
And the bulb does not appear to be a twist out lending me to wonder if this whole encasement is not something that would be bought as a whole?
One or both did light but didn't flash.

One or both didn't flash, that is an important distinction. If these are side markers, are you certain they should flash, or do they just come on with the running lights? Often the voltage is fluctuating slightly causing what appears to be flashing in the side markers when in reality the bulb is just getting another volt or two and burning a little brighter.
Based on the evident corrosion on the base of that light bulb, you may need to spray some WD-40 on that bulb to loosen it up, they all come out of their sockets. Sometimes they need to be pushed deeper in to the socket then twisted like a medicine bottle. Once you get it out (do not use pliers as the glass is very fragile and will break) clean the metal base of the bulb so you can read the numbers engraved in it and replace it with the right ones.

[fcbbob15]

My post suggesting to disconnect the battery was while cleaning the sockets. From the photos you have posted your bulbs and sockets look in poor shape. Therefor the suggestion to disconnect the battery and clean the sockets and install known good bulbs. The sockets and grounds are the weak link in automotive lighting circuits.

[BA-in-Mich]

I had an old chevy that had corroded headlight sockets. I used a small sand blaster and with a glove holding the socket was ables to clean them as good as new. Put some grease on them and never had another issue.

[6x16inside]

Originally Posted by Tidy Tabby

One or both didn't flash, that is an important distinction. If these are side markers, are you certain they should flash, or do they just come on with the running lights? Often the voltage is fluctuating slightly causing what appears to be flashing in the side markers when in reality the bulb is just getting another volt or two and burning a little brighter.
Based on the evident corrosion on the base of that light bulb, you may need to spray some WD-40 on that bulb to loosen it up, they all come out of their sockets. Sometimes they need to be pushed deeper in to the socket then twisted like a medicine bottle. Once you get it out (do not use pliers as the glass is very fragile and will break) clean the metal base of the bulb so you can read the numbers engraved in it and replace it with the right ones.

That is why I feel the whole thing should be a replacement as there is no metal base to the bulb. Look real closely.