Community Forums

Gary - K7GLD · 11-05-2010, 12:57 PM

We have several spots in out '88 Winnie MH where the vinyl surface is separating from the padded backing, and starting to sag a bit - most noticeable as temperatures rise.

I'm sure this effect will only get worse as time goes by, and wonder if there's a way to correct the problem? There are several excellent spray adhesives available that would easily re-secure the vinyl. but the problem is carefully getting in between the 2 surfaces to apply the adhesive. All our problem areas are near the dividing strips seen in the above photos - how can those be removed without damaging them, to get access as needed to apply new adhesive? Anyone tackled this problem, and have advice?

No, NOT looking for a total rip out and replace. or install a new cover or paint, just looking for a way to repair what is already there.

a10koaksfed · 11-05-2010, 01:16 PM

I can't tell from your photo, but are there any ceiling lights/vents that you can remover to gain access to this section/area? That saves you from doing an in depth tear out.

I watched a dealer service tech take a glue canister, place it in hot water to heat it up as much as possible, place the canister in a caulking gun for delivery. The tech then squeezed the glue out, via a removed ceiling vent, onto the ceiling joist over the sag area and immediately braced the ceiling. The brace was left in place 24 hours to insure complete drying.

The brace was a simple 2x6, covered with a felt pad, help up by another 2x6 from the floor. Nothing elaborate, but the ceiling looked brand new.

Spray on glue tends to fail over time in the summer heat.

Hope this helps.

Tom in socal.

a10koaksfed · 11-05-2010, 01:18 PM

I forgot to mention that the tech placed a long plastic tube on the end of the glue tube to allow him to deliver the glue directly on the target area which was a couple feet from the ceiling vent opening.

Good luck.

gasman123 · 11-05-2010, 01:51 PM

I do beleive that the vinal part has a foam backing that it is glued to. The back side was sprayed with glue and then the foam was put on it. Just like a head liner in a car, short of replacing panel I dont think you can glue it again unless you take it out and then you might as well replace.

Gary - K7GLD · 11-05-2010, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gasman123

I do beleive that the vinal part has a foam backing that it is glued to. The back side was sprayed with glue and then the foam was put on it. Just like a head liner in a car, short of replacing panel I dont think you can glue it again unless you take it out and then you might as well replace.

YUP - the headliner in the old '91 Dodge pickup I had did the same "sag" trick - all I could do was apply a heavy coat of spray paint (after removing the whole headliner and backing), and then when it dried, everything was back in place - uglier, but solid!

I'd certainly try to avoid THAT approach in the MH, but options seem scarce...;(

leadman · 11-06-2010, 09:26 PM

How about heating the vinyl with a heat gun? It might soften the old glue and then do the support thing.

Senior Chief · 11-06-2010, 09:46 PM

You might try a new "look", like was done in our '89 Southwind.

A previous owner used white thumbtacks, pushed in evenly in an 8"x8" pattern over the surface of the ceiling material in the galley area, to create a quilted "button" effect. It looks perfectly natural; took us quite a while to realize it was a do-over .

mikeandreva · 11-07-2010, 07:07 AM

Had the same problem on my '94 Holiday Rambler. Even the support ribs that hide the seam were loose. I removed the ribs, bought a can of spray adhesive, sprayed both sides of the foam backing, took a dry paint roller, and rolled the vinyl and pad into place. Then used epoxy to glue the rib into place, and supported it with a piece of wood molding propped up with 1x2. The spray adhesive sets on contact. What would work great is if a spray adhesive would come with a tube , like WD 40, sharpened at the end. Then puncture the ceiling liner and roll out with a roller.

Gary - K7GLD · 11-07-2010, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senior Chief

You might try a new "look", like was done in our '89 Southwind.

A previous owner used white thumbtacks, pushed in evenly in an 8"x8" pattern over the surface of the ceiling material in the galley area, to create a quilted "button" effect. It looks perfectly natural; took us quite a while to realize it was a do-over .

Actually, I had thought about something like that for the "tufted" look - but never thought about thumb tacks - wonder if they remain well seated once installed - could be a disaster if they started falling out!

?

Mikeandreva posted:

Quote:

Had the same problem on my '94 Holiday Rambler. Even the support ribs that hide the seam were loose. I removed the ribs, bought a can of spray adhesive, sprayed both sides of the foam backing, took a dry paint roller, and rolled the vinyl and pad into place. Then used epoxy to glue the rib into place, and supported it with a piece of wood molding propped up with 1x2. The spray adhesive sets on contact. What would work great is if a spray adhesive would come with a tube , like WD 40, sharpened at the end. Then puncture the ceiling liner and roll out with a roller.

Yeah - the trick with spray adhesives is getting the stuff where it needs to go to get the job done - and yes - a thin spray tube would be great, and might be possible to get the spray button and tube off something like a can of WD40 or similar - if the spray would exit and spread reasonably well. I'm still not sure exactly how to remove the seam caps without damaging them - seems they simply press into position, and are held in place by friction from adjoining panels?

I had thought about something like the bit about piercing the outer vinyl to get the adhesive spray in between surfaces if removing the divider strips looks to be problematic.

Surely some of the guys in this forum doing complete restorations have had the experience in yanking out the dividers - how difficult is it - and does it seem possible to do it without destroying or damaging the dividers - they do have to be replaced - and if damaged, would look as bad as the sagging ceiling material...

wildtoad · 11-07-2010, 03:39 PM

I used the white thumb tacks in the '94 Airstream I had and they stayed put quite well. You can also get some small screws with cover caps which might look a bit better.

I do find it interesting though that you have vinyl as my 1988 Superchief has cloth ceiling material. It too sags in a few places, mostly where it leaked around the bathroom skylight and roof AC. I've just stretched and tucked the material into the support ribs.

Senior Chief · 11-08-2010, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildtoad

I used the white thumb tacks in the '94 Airstream I had and they stayed put quite well. You can also get some small screws with cover caps which might look a bit better.

Ditto for the thumbtacks in our Southwind. I suppose it depends entirely on what substrate is under the cloth, but ours seem to stay in place with no problem.

Lorna · 11-08-2010, 10:37 AM

If you have a foam lined vinyl and it is sagging, then the foam has "died". You will have to remove the foam to reglue. It will look like crap unless you get ALL the little bits of foam out.

Gary - K7GLD · 11-08-2010, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senior Chief

Ditto for the thumbtacks in our Southwind. I suppose it depends entirely on what substrate is under the cloth, but ours seem to stay in place with no problem.

From what I've seen exposed in the ceiling area when I pulled our Norcold refer for a freezer unit transplant, looks like the common thin plywood substrate - glad to hear others have used the thumbtack approach successfully - makes a good option if re-gluing can't be accomplished.

What tack spacing has worked for you using that method - I'd sorta figured about 6 inches apart...