Desperately seeking rooftop a/c info

[RKins]

I looked at the first pic closer and it looks like the shroud is held on with rivets. The base looks like it may have phillips screws.
You'll have to drill the head off the rivet to remove. I'm sure Youtube has a video on that.

[stumpnc]

If your unit is low on refrigerant. The type of refrigerant used in it needs to be known. A lot of those old ones used R'12. Yes you can still get it. I see small cans on Craigslist from time to time. It is expensive.
Seriously you bought a RV, it is 27 years old. If you plan on keeping it why don't you just update the systems and use It? Appliances wear out. Do you rrally want to be camping somewhere trying to relax and have to worry about things like this? I don't,My coach is also a 91 A Foretravel U300 Grand Villa.. I replaced my front A/C with a Atwood heatpump cools great!Shop online and have it shipped to you.

[6x16inside]

Originally Posted by BillJinOR

Oh and did I mention , find a better power source !
Personally I’d find a way to get the unit replaced be done with it and have a beer ! [emoji6]

But why did it only start that when I came home from the new to me genset install???

And after standing up there staring at the things too long seeing no way to get them off other than just breaking them off, I did exactly that.......got to a recommended shop yesterday, found out the rear a/c cools nicely, does NOT power up and down like the front (in which case I guess I will never know why the rear never even turned on until a week ago) and tomorrow morning, I will be bringing her back with a new front a/c, new thermostat, two new shrouds, etc.

Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions, hope you don't think they were all for naught.

[6x16inside]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I agree with BillJinORaccording to the BTU rating of the old unit, you might 'upsize' to a larger capacity for increased cooling. Some of the newer units are more efficient than the 1991 model you're trying to nurse along, so your amperage use might even go down with a new one.

Yep, went with a 15 thou

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by 6x16inside

But why did it only start that when I came home from the new to me genset install???

And after standing up there staring at the things too long seeing no way to get them off other than just breaking them off, I did exactly that.......got to a recommended shop yesterday, found out the rear a/c cools nicely, does NOT power up and down like the front (in which case I guess I will never know why the rear never even turned on until a week ago) and tomorrow morning, I will be bringing her back with a new front a/c, new thermostat, two new shrouds, etc.

Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions, hope you don't think they were all for naught.

Is your RV a 30 amp or 50 amp system? In a 30 amp RV, the power demands of two A/C units might not be possible. Some have an Electrical Management System (EMS) that monitors power needs and shuts down some loads so the breaker doesn't trip. Older RVs often had the front A/C tied into the 30 amp shore breaker panel, but the second unit was wired to the generator and would only run with the generator. You'll have to explore how your '91 RV is wired. If you have a 50 amp RV, then everything can run at one time and no need to shed loads or have the generator running to use all power needs. 30 amp service @ 120 v = 3600 watts. RV 50 amp service is actually two 50 amp @120 v legs, so you have 12,000 watts available.

If you're not sure, look at your shore cord plug. 3 prongs, 30 amps, 4 prongs, 50 amps. In your breaker panel you'd find one master 30 amp breaker in the 30 amp breaker panel, a 50 amp panel has 2 50 amp breakers at the 'top' and two rows of smaller breakers below.

[6x16inside]

Very true and correct.
The miracle worker at Hager and Son's of OKC who swamped out the old for the new, etc., spoke of just that and that the dial under my stove will now have to be turned when the situation is apropos.

Now to understand and figure out why my radiator doesn't seem to have a petcock.....
Is draining it from the bottom not how RV's are supposed to be done?

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by 6x16inside

Very true and correct.
The miracle worker at Hager and Son's of OKC who swamped out the old for the new, etc., spoke of just that and that the dial under my stove will now have to be turned when the situation is apropos.

Now to understand and figure out why my radiator doesn't seem to have a petcock.....
Is draining it from the bottom not how RV's are supposed to be done?

Without a drain plug, you often just loosen the bottom radiator hose and drain from there.

[RKins]

Congrats on the new A/C unit - how does it feel inside now? So both front and rear work now?
I see you started a new topic on the radiator - good idea.

[6x16inside]

Originally Posted by RKins

Congrats on the new A/C unit - how does it feel inside now? So both front and rear work now?
I see you started a new topic on the radiator - good idea.

Well, the rear was cooling nicely when I first checked in at Hager and he was checking everything out in order to open the work order.
And now the ceiling vent in the room is the one from the front room instead of the cracked broken half of one duct taped up and further enclosed with more duct tape, LOL since I previously had reported that it had never come on at all. Still completely confused on why that was.
He told me all the sealant and gunk around both shrouds was someone's bright idea of stopping a leak at some point but actually harmful to the unit as they have to "breath".
And yes, the front new a/c is amazing. I haven't had it on long enough at any point yet but I can tell it will literally freeze us out!!
Will look for the drain hose later, found a nicer better home to reside in between trips and got busy with moving in literally in hours as opposed to most people's weeks, LOL

[RKins]

Nice - new digs and an almost ready camper - getting closer now.

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by 6x16inside

Ok, my first question before attempting to follow all your helpful steps is:

How do I remove the shroud to begin with LOL???
They aren't phillips screws nor of the allen wrench variety.

The "might" be Roberts "square drive" screws... Horror Fright has them, or any good parts house (NAPA)

[Brob]

In addition to the piercing valves, a Schrader port can be brazed in the suction line.
A rooftop unit is still an A/C unit and can be repaired if so desired. You can replace coils, the compressor, the fan motor, and virtually any other component; you just have to decide how far you are willing to go on an inefficient A/C unit.
I have been contemplating replacing my two rooftop units with a dual-zone ductless mini-split heat pump. They are almost silent and use a fraction of the energy required by the rooftop units.

[Grog]

Brob im Interested in what your planning. I'm familiar with the mitsubish style but those are still pretty large since they are for houses. Post some info on your unit and the btu's