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03-11-2015, 04:12 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimsVintage
One thing very interesting I found is the camper has built in propane fueled light fixture.
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Yep that's what the old ones came with. Had one in the rental trailer my parents rented in 1957 and also in the '58 KenCraft TT they special ordered. Had a special box to store the mantle in to try and keep it from breaking when moved, didn't work too often so had to keep a supply of new ones around. Needed to tie them on and ignite the silk so all you had left was an ash mantle and very fragile.
A lot of the early TT's were basically home built and sold on a street corner.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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03-11-2015, 04:28 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimsVintage
One thing very interesting I found is the camper has built in propane fueled light fixture.
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We had a propane lamp in our 1967 Travel Queen camper. It worked great!
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03-12-2015, 07:43 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 5,932
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The Shasta "compact" series had a propane light in the middle of the the kitchen cabinets in the front. They also had a cabinet over the main bed that folded down and made a second bed.
__________________
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2014 Honda CRV toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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03-12-2015, 08:23 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 5,932
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One sure way to make sure it is a Shasta, is to check the back of the side walls at the top. Shasta had wings on the back, top of the sides. These wings let water in and rotted away in about 15 years. You will probably have three or four filled holes at the point where the wings were mounted.
__________________
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2014 Honda CRV toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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03-12-2015, 08:32 AM
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#19
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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Many tips on wiring & plumbing located here for your use.
Good luck with you rebuild.
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03-12-2015, 08:33 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimsVintage
One thing very interesting I found is the camper has built in propane fueled light fixture.
With no fender cut out I found the frame to be straight along the underside of the outside bottom edge of the camper. So the frame would have to be cut to create a cutout which would expose the wheel and tire better and ease putting wheels and tires on and off. Right now there is only 6.5 inches between the stud ends and the frame rail. Only other way I see is to unbolt the leaf springs and drop the axle enough to put the wheel on then rebolt.
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Try jacking it up by the frame. When you do the spring will sag dropping the tire so that it can be changed. After you unbolt the wheel tip the top back towards the frame and it should slide right out.
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D.A.V.Life Member
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03-12-2015, 01:08 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 495
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64 Trvlr has the way to change the wheel. I had a '69 Layton that had the gas light to keep you warm in the summer time as well as light. The only way I could change a tire was to jack the body up and leave the frame to hang down lower. After getting new tires I never had a problem with a flat. My parents took it on a trip to Canada and rolled it over so I didn't get to keep it past 1972,
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1999 Damon Challenger 310 Ford chassis
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03-22-2015, 10:46 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 19
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Since now I have on new tires.....
I was wondering, the frame travels straight across the bottom edge of the camper, so would I lose frame integrity if an experienced welder cut the frame at the wheel and rebuilt the frame up and over like a normal wheelwell?
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